Imagenomic Portraiture just got a major upgrade. Its intelligent auto‑masking speeds up the workflow by accurately identifying where skin softening should apply with minimal manual input. New features like Fill Light make it easy to brighten faces without complex masking, while Uniformity helps balance facial tones for a more polished look. Improved sharpness tools bring texture back naturally, and the upgraded shine‑reduction effectively eliminates harsh hotspots—making the overall retouching process faster, smoother, and more professional.
The new Imagenomic Portraiture is faster and smarter. Auto‑masking needs almost no manual input, Fill Light brightens faces easily, Uniformity balances skin tones, improved sharpness restores natural texture, and shine‑reduction removes harsh hotspots.
A smarter, faster Portraiture provides realistic skin softening that brightens faces, evens tones, restores texture, and removes shine with minimal effort.
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After Final Before and After taken with a Canon 5D Mark III using a 300mm f/2.8L IS II at f/5.6 for 1/1250sec @ ISO 800
Before |
After New Fill Light feature - On (before) and Off (after)
Before |
After Uniformity Feature - 0 (before) and 40 (after) - pay attention to the shadows by the mouth
Before |
After New Reduce Shine feature - Before (0) and After (40)
Before |
After Get smooth hair with the Hair Mask - Before (Mask hair - 100) vs After (Don't mask hair - 0)
Before |
After Return face texture with Sharpness - Before (0) and After (Max - 40)
Closing Thoughts
Nearly 20 years ago, my mentor insisted that if I wanted the best results for skin softening, I should use Portraiture—and they were absolutely right. Over the years, I’ve spoken with many top‑tier pros working on high‑value projects, and Portraiture was one of their “secret sauce” tools. Meanwhile, countless tutorials claimed you could get the same results manually. What I learned is that Portraiture was always a step ahead—delivering next‑level quality faster and with far less effort. Getting perfect skin in seconds became a no‑brainer.
Fast‑forward to today: at first glance, it may look unchanged, but under the hood it’s faster, smarter, and loaded with improvements in object detection and workflow efficiency. It’s still a world‑class leader—and now it’s better than ever.
Although my review focused on using Portraiture in Photoshop, it performs just as seamlessly in Lightroom Classic.
If you’ve used Portraiture—or tried alternatives—I’d love to hear your experience. What tools are essential in your portrait retouching workflow? Drop your thoughts or questions below!
Phenomenal autofocus, outstanding in-camera JPEGs at high ISOs, and great support for legacy EF lenses and flashes makes this a nice upgrade for those sitting on the fence.
⛔In 2026, it trails newer bodies (e.g., Nikon Z6 III, Sony a7 V, Canon R6 Mark III) in buffer depth, rolling shutter, and burst rates for fast action
⛔Even at street prices around $1,999 body-only new (or $1,800 used/refurb), it's pricey compared to aggressive competition in a shrinking market
⛔DPP 4 is painfully slow for raw processing, despite being optimized for Canon files
⛔Limited 4K 60p recording time due to potential overheating in extended clips (common for the model; external fan helps if video is priority)
⚖️RAW shadow recovery / dynamic range isn’t class-leading if you push files hard (vs. some Sony a7 and Nikon Z bodies)
TL;DR ⚡
For dedicated Canon shooters, the R6 Mark II delivers outstanding high ISO performance. Combined with IBIS and lens stabilization, it enables slower shutter speeds for still subjects, reducing ISO for cleaner images. See my full review for more info on how it compares to the new Mark III.
R6 Mark II: Pro-level performance and stabilization—without the Mark III price tag.
The 24-105 minimum focus distance was quite usable.
f/5 for 1/100 sec at 70 mm ISO 320 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Aperture priority with RF24-105mm F4 L IS USM]
However, I found myself wishing this was a f/2.8 lens quite often to get more bokeh in the background. Click the photo to open the original size 👆
Manual focus peaking was needed to get sharp focus for this shot, but it worked great.
f/4.5 for 1/320 sec at 98 mm ISO 640 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Shutter priority with RF24-105mm F4 L IS USM]
The wind really gave the autofocus its only fits during my testing, so the focus peaking made it easy to see when the wind was calm enough to take the shot. Click the photo to open the original size 👆
The Canon Drop-In Filter Mount Adapter EF-EOS R with Circular Polarizer Filter worked great with my legacy Canon EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM lens.
f/7.1 for 1/125 sec at 120 mm ISO 8000 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Aperture priority with EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM]
I rotated the circular polarizer to eliminate the reflections on the leaves and stump to make a more vibrant image. I quickly became a fan of having filters on the camera side of the lens instead of on the end of the lens. Click the photo to open the original size 👆
The in-camera JPEG processing of ISO 20,000 is awesome
f/13 for 1/160 sec at 130 mm ISO 20000 [-0.33 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Aperture priority with EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM]
I quickly fell in love with the fact that I don't need to worry about hitting high ISOs with this camera. The noise reduction is impressive while still maintaining plenty of details as shown in this low-light shot. Click the photo to open the original size 👆
My very old EF100mm f/2.8 Macro USM lens worked great with the Canon Drop-In Filter Mount Adapter EF-EOS R with Circular Polarizer Filter
f/13 for 1/125 sec at 100 mm ISO 6400 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Aperture priority with EF100mm f/2.8 Macro USM]
I had no issues with both auto and manual focus with this super sharp but very outdated lens Click the photo to open the original size 👆
I was happy to see my legacy Canon EF11-24mm f/4L USM, one of my most expensive lenses, worked great with the R6 Mark II's autofocus system!
f/20 for 2.5 sec at 24 mm ISO 100 [-1 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Manual with EF11-24mm f/4L USM]
The circular polarizer came in handy on this long exposure shot as did the articulating LCD which kept me from having to get into funny positions. I just rotated the LCD so I could see it easily no matter what position my camera was in! Click the photo to open the original size 👆
Another long-exposure shot that highlights the sharpness of this lens even at f/14
f/14 for 1/2 sec at 63 mm ISO 100 [-1 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Manual with RF24-105mm F4 L IS USM]
I currently own a legacy 24-70 and two variants of the 24-105 lens, but this new RF made me want to get rid of all of them as it performed very well with super crisp images worthy of the L designation. Click the photo to open the original size 👆
Cigar lounges are a visual treat in person, but they give cameras fits
f/4.5 for 1/60 sec at 50 mm ISO 12800 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Aperture priority with RF24-105mm F4 L IS USM]
I was pleased that the autofocus never had any problems and didn't hunt for something to lock onto. The in-camera JPG was great and the off colors accurately reflect what I saw in person as well, so it nailed the color even with the AWB setting. Click the photo to open the original size 👆
In-camera color accuracy was fantastic
f/9 for 1/80 sec at 32 mm ISO 12800 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Aperture priority with RF24-105mm F4 L IS USM]
I might be sounding like a broken record, but Canon's strength has always been its in-camera color quality and this was no different. It's an exact replica of what my eyes were seeing at the time. Click the photo to open the original size 👆
Even at ISO 8000, the textures of the cigars were excellent.
f/6.3 for 1/80 sec at 70 mm ISO 8000 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Aperture priority with RF24-105mm F4 L IS USM]
I've been so happy with my iPhone over the past few years that I'm not breaking out the big camera anymore, but the resolution and crispness especially at high ISO with this camera has me rethinking that decision. Click the photo to open the original size 👆
This was my token f/22 shot that is more about having a lot of things to look at than it is photography. Overall, the wind hurt this shot quite a bit but I also believe diffraction was the bigger enemy here. There's no substitute for more megapixels for stuff like this as I've shown in my 50 and 100 megapixel Fujifilm reviews.
f/22 for 8 sec at 24 mm ISO 100 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Aperture priority with EF11-24mm f/4L USM]
For this shot I was using my legacy EF11-24mm lens and the light conditions were constantly changing, but in the Northwest this was about as much sun as I could get so I was happy to capture it! Click the photo to open the original size 👆
f/16 looks great as long as you don't pixel peep at unrealistic zoom levels
f/16 for 1.6 sec at 24 mm ISO 100 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Aperture priority with EF11-24mm f/4L USM]
I focused on the sign and again was using my sharpest lens in my bag for this shot Click the photo to open the original size 👆
I used the right eye autofocus and despite my daughter's hair partially obscuring it, and it did great.
f/5.6 for 1/100 sec at 95 mm ISO 5000 [0 EV, Spot metering, No flash, Aperture priority with RF24-105mm F4 L IS USM]
For those new to this feature, the right and left eye refer to the subject's right and left eye - not photographers right or left. This is something that you need to think about when using that feature as it's easy to get it confused. That said, auto eye priority works great most of the time too. Click the photo to open the original size 👆
This was a hard shot to capture and the result is nothing to write home about, but what impressed me was that the autofocus never hunted around trying to lock onto the inscription - despite the fact that I struggled to see it!
f/6.3 for 1/60 sec at 53 mm ISO 6400 [+2 EV, Pattern metering, Flash fired, Aperture priority with RF24-105mm F4 L IS USM]
Autofocus in difficult conditions that used to trip up the best of cameras is no longer a thing, so I never dealt with focus hunting even when using my older lenses. What's more, I almost never needed manual autofocus, and when I did it was for creative reasons. Click the photo to open the original size 👆
Another tricky one just above
f/6.3 for 1/60 sec at 81 mm ISO 6400 [+2 EV, Pattern metering, Flash fired, Aperture priority with RF24-105mm F4 L IS USM]
In both cases, the autofocus just worked like it was any other subject - which was great! Click the photo to open the original size 👆
I had the wrong white balance settings for this shot, but I was pleased with the exposure of the blackberries at 0 EV against the bright pineapple in Canon's Evaluate metering (aka pattern) mode.
f/5.6 for 1/60 sec at 43 mm ISO 4000 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Aperture priority with RF24-105mm F4 L IS USM]
A better white balance and partial metering would have been a better choice, but the CR3 raw file leaves plenty to work with after the fact. Click the photo to open the original size 👆
It's the winter in the Northwest, so there's little light to speak of. As a result, I was pleased to see how much detail was still left in the top of this hat even at ISO 8000.
f/5.6 for 1/80 sec at 63 mm ISO 8000 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Aperture priority with RF24-105mm F4 L IS USM]
Yet another example of why I loved the 24-105mm so much - super sharp images and great image stabilization for handheld shots. Click the photo to open the original size 👆
ISO 8000 was so good on that last shot, I decided to push things and give ISO 10,000 a shot
f/4 for 1/125 sec at 105 mm ISO 10000 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Aperture priority with RF24-105mm F4 L IS USM]
Once again, the in-camera JPEG didn't disappoint. However, I can still leverage the raw and Imagenomic Noiseware to get it even more sharp if I wanted to edit this image. Click the photo to open the original size 👆
Photographs on your typical ice rink are always terrible due to the poor lighting conditions and distractions in the background, but I was super impressed with the eye autofocus and AI Servo performance with my legacy 70-200mm during this torture test.
f/4 for 1/320 sec at 102 mm ISO 5000 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Manual with EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM]
Lots of distractions in the foreground and background kept showing up, but the AF almost never missed a shot and stayed in sharp focus of my daughter's eyes even when I struggled to see where she was. Click the photo to open the original size 👆
I've got countless distractions shots like this where the AF did a great job tracking my intended subject and never getting tripped up.
f/2.8 for 1/320 sec at 135 mm ISO 2000 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Manual with EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM]
I was extremely pleased with the performance, even though people were ruining any chances of a getting a good photograph! Click the photo to open the original size 👆
Another distraction example and there's more in the review gallery, but the AF never lost sight of my intended subject.
f/2.8 for 1/320 sec at 200 mm ISO 8000 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Manual with EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM]
I can say with confidence that the R6 outperforms my Canon 1DX Mark II in terms of AF performance in every way. Click the photo to open the original size 👆
This is a horrible photo, but what's impressive is that the eye autofocus actually stayed on the eye of the moving and partially obscured subject
f/4 for 1/400 sec at 91 mm ISO 1600 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Manual with RF24-105mm F4 L IS USM]
I threw a lot at this AF system and it passed with flying colors. Click the photo to open the original size 👆
Yes, its true, auto eye AF even works on closed eyes!
f/4 for 1/640 sec at 105 mm ISO 4000 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Manual with RF24-105mm F4 L IS USM]
In the past you'd have a sharp focus of a basketball and blurry subject, but not with the R6 Mark II. Click the photo to open the original size 👆
I didn't get enough time with the amazing Canon EL (Version 2) Flash, but this was all that flash with no third party modifiers.
f/5.6 for 1/60 sec at 72 mm ISO 3200 [0 EV, Pattern metering, Flash fired, Aperture priority with RF24-105mm F4 L IS USM]
It's heavy, and its expensive, but the battery makes it a always ready when you need it super performing flash. If I was shooting event photography, I'd definitely buy this flash. Click the photo to open the original size 👆
After taking a photo with my iPhone, I decided to see if I could improve upon it by getting a shot that the iPhone would never get - a sharp focus on the brush as paint is applied.
f/4 for 1/60 sec at 96 mm ISO 160 [-0.67 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Manual with RF24-105mm F4 L IS USM]
Spot autofocus saved the day and I got the shot that I was hoping to get. Click the photo to open the original size 👆
Unhappy with the darkness of the last shot, I tried again and once again spot AF had no problems getting my desired result.
f/4 for 1/100 sec at 105 mm ISO 320 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Manual with RF24-105mm F4 L IS USM]
In retrospect I wish I would have tried this shot at f/9 to get both the brush and hand in better focus together, but that's all on me not the camera. Click the photo to open the original size 👆
Notice how in-camera HEIF (.HIF) files render in Lightroom versus the CR3 thumbnail/default rendering.
In-camera generated HEIF files don't look good in Lightroom Classic (in my testing)
I’m not sure if this is a Lightroom issue or a camera firmware issue from not being on the latest version. Leave a comment if you have more details on this issue. Click the photo to open the original size 👆
In mixed stills shooting (with occasional bursts and LCD use), I got about 2000 images (about 1000 shots) per LP-E6NH charge—solid for a mirrorless body. Grip is comfortable for long sessions, weather-sealing held up in light rain/Northwest drizzle, and the EVF is bright and clear. IBIS makes handheld low-light easy.
Still Worth It in 2026?
Launched in 2022, the R6 Mark II now often sells new for ~$1,999 body-only (or less refurbished/used around $1,800). It’s a fantastic value for EF lens owners avoiding a full system switch. If you want the absolute latest (better buffer, sensor readout, video endurance), the R6 Mark III is the step-up—but this one still punches way above its age for sports, events, and family action.
Difference between the Mark II and Mark III (AI Generated)
Image Quality & Resolution
The most notable difference is the sensor. The Mark III offers a 32.5MP sensor compared to the Mark II's 24.2MP, providing greater flexibility for cropping and larger prints. This extra resolution, however, can result in slightly more noise in high ISO scenarios compared to the Mark II's clean low-light performance.
Video Enhancements
The Mark III is a significant upgrade for videographers. It introduces internal 7K RAW recording and Open Gate recording, which uses the entire sensor area for flexible aspect ratio cropping in post-production (e.g., for social media vertical video). It also adds a full-size HDMI port, Canon Log 2, and professional tools like waveform monitoring. The Mark II is a capable everyday video camera with crop-free 4K 60p, but lacks these advanced features.
Speed & Buffer
Both cameras shoot at an impressive 40fps with the electronic shutter. The Mark III pulls ahead with its CFexpress card slot (alongside an SD slot), which allows for a much larger buffer capacity (around 150 RAW shots vs. 75 on the Mark II) for extended burst shooting. It also has a more robust implementation of the Pre-continuous shooting feature.
Autofocus & Stabilization
Both use Canon's effective Dual Pixel CMOS AF II system. The Mark III benefits from an enhanced AF algorithm and the "Register People Priority" feature, which allows you to prioritize focus on specific registered faces. It also offers a slight bump in in-body image stabilization, up to 8.5 stops.
Recommended Products
Canon Speedlite EL-1 (Version 2)Canon Drop-In Filter Mount Adapter EF-EOS R with Circular Polarizer FilterCanon EOS R6 Mark IIICanon RF 24-105mm IS USM Lens
Closing Thoughts
I’ll admit I was late to the game reviewing this one—it originally launched in 2022—but it’s still a very relevant camera today, especially if you’re coming from older Canon DSLRs with EF glass and have been waiting for the right moment to upgrade. If you’ve already moved to the R series, the gains here are more incremental and may not justify the cost.
That said, if you value Canon’s ergonomics and its consistently excellent in-camera JPEGs, this camera earns its keep. Autofocus stayed locked on even in ugly, low-contrast situations, and high-ISO performance was strong enough that I rarely felt forced into shooting RAW. When I did, RAW + Imagenomic Noiseware produced results that easily meet 2026-level expectations.
If you still find yourself wanting more—faster everything, more headroom, and the newest refinements—then stepping up to the Canon R6 Mark III makes sense. Either way, the Canon RF 24–105mm f/4L IS USM remains a rock-solid everyday pairing that fits this body perfectly.
It’s been since 2019 that I’ve reviewed a Fujifilm camera and that’s a shame. I forgot how much I’ve enjoyed the Fujifilm platform. If my memory serves me correctly the original X100 was the first X series camera I ever reviewed!
While there are numerous improvements that addressed my complaints of the early x100 and x100s, the form factor and purpose remain the same – and that’s a good thing. What’s more, the support for teleconverters means that you can get a little more functionality out of this fixed length permanently attached lens – if you so desire.
Overview
You can click the photo at the top of the article to get all the specs at B&H, so I’m not going to bore you with that. I’m also going to get closer to the modern era by introducing this camera with a video overview instead of a wall of words:
It’s a super well built and designed camera that really has few faults for someone interested in this formfactor and feature set.
Real World Images
Click here to see a gallery of some of the photos I took using the X100VI during my time reviewing it. As usual, these are all straight out of the camera with one notable exception. This camera supports HEIF, but Zenfolio doesn’t provide a good way to give you direct access to them, so I had to convert all HEIF files to JPEG (when applicable). Inline images were resized by Zenfolio, but you can download full size originals of the images that Lightroom converted from HEIF to JPG for inclusion in this gallery.
Here are my thoughts on a few photos that I found worth discussing:
Here’s one of the first pics I took with this camera right out of the box with the camera default settings and before I bothered to read the manual to refresh my memory on how to set the autofocus point:
As you can see the bokeh is fabulous and the detail is quite good in the raindrops despite, literally pointing and shooting like a newbie to cameras would do! If you want to know what do you really get over a cell phone, here’s a good place to start looking!
I was also pleased that for ISO 1250 that it looked this good to begin with. This particular photo was the exact in-camera JPEG as I hadn’t discovered yet that it supported HEIF at this point in the review.
Here’s another impressive handheld shot at only 1/35 sec yet the gloomy day required ISO 8000! The detail and default processing was amazing:
I was super impressed with the detail of the fine grain details in the center of the flower that didn’t get destroyed by in-camera noise reduction, and the default color was fantastic!
Here’s a jaw dropping example of the quality of this lens and the in-camera images event at ISO 5000:
I’m very pessimistic these days about lugging cameras around as cell phones have become so good, but this definitely reminded me that I might need to spend more time with the latest cameras again as this was a very impressive result!
Here’s a pretty boring photo, but again these were camera default settings doing pure point and shoot (except I did manually set the aperture). In this case I was too lazy to lay on the ground, so I just held the camera down at the level of the slug, tapped the screen like I’d do with my phone and took several photos:
This did pretty good knowing how I took the shot – especially with a 23mm lens not known for being a good focal length for macro photography.
On a camping trip to the North Cascades in Washington, I woke up to see this beautiful scene so I grabbed the camera and just did a quick snap before going back to bed.
This shot would be one of my first experimentations with a large f stop number to see if there have been massive improvements with diffraction, but ultimately that didn’t appear to be the case.
A little later I’d try again (below), but still the trees in the background are pretty soft for f/16:
In brighter conditions at a low ISO, the f/16 results were significantly better so the poor quality of the previous two photos may have been attributed to the fog and losses caused by noise reduction.
By this point I had also enabled the Velvia film simulation mode which Fujifilm is famous for, and it did not disappoint. The colors were amazing for this scene – if you like vivid images. If not, there’s a wide variety of film simulations to suit your taste.
I love the Velvia film simulation in the woods, but some might be turned off with how it crushes some of the shadow areas as shown at the base of the trees in this shot:
It also gives the water a more of an unnatural tint so some might find it better to manually process a shot like this from raw to get the best results.
Without resorting to manual settings or flash, I just took this picture of Kai (yeah, he’s grown up) the way a newbie would using default settings:
This is a type of shot where modern phones with their in-camera HDR can’t be beat – the results are very disappointing, so amateurs will need a better understanding of light (e.g., turn Kai into the light and avoid harsh backlight) or they’ll be frustrated compared to what they see they can accomplish with their phone.
Case in point, here’s what a iPhone 13 Pro photo of Kai taken in the same exact spot looked like straight from the phone:
So, if your goal is to take advantage of the shadows and get a more creative lighting shot then iPhone will be frustrating, but if you want a no brainer shot that is easy and just does HDR perfectly, it’s still tough to beat the best smart phones.
Here’s another example where the lighting was much more favorable:
Yet, despite great light and God’s soft box being out in full force, with no exposure compensation the image was rather dark. Again, compared to the iPhone where the results were much more pleasing:
This made me suspect that the default metering was to blame, so had I changed that setting I could have got results that are actually superior to the iPhone.
This also made me think about selfies – the feature that smart phone users seem to love the most. While I was out on the lake with my wife, I took a shot of my ugly mug completely blind but using the eye auto focus feature:
This time, despite the sun setting with mediocre light, it did great. I’m also pleased to report that my old face didn’t destroy the camera. The Velvia mode made my skin appear a little more red than I’d like, but the rest of the scene looked great.
I was very satisfied with the quality of the lens and the super sharp details found in so many of the photos I took:
This combined with great high ISO performance and visually satisfying colors (IMHO), made me happy to have this camera with me for my trip to the mountains.
I got a chance to give the burst mode a shot out on the ice, and while my framing was terrible, the results were good for this class of camera. Shooting on ice is tough so this is where you’ll need to experiment with the exposure compensation (+2 in this case), the white balance (florescent), and much more:
For the shots in this series I used the eye autofocus to see what it could do and I was satisfied with the results. I sucked, but the camera did its part. The iPhone was much easier to use, but I preferred the color I got using the X100 VI.
Video
While I did experiment a little bit with the video features, those who know me know that I’m not really a videographer. As a result, I can only say that it offers a wide variety of formats and settings that are certain to be superior to results found on a phone,
Viewfinder
The viewfinder on this camera supports both optical as well as digital, and that’s a good thing. The optical offers a traditional photography experience whereas the digital offers a way to see photos as they will appear on your computer or phone even in the harshest sunlight. It also provides a way to save battery when you elect to enable the EVF and turn off the rear display.
Conclusion
Once again I was reminded of the magic of Fujifilm and wasn’t disappointed one bit. Thanks to the Q menu, the touch screen and great controls, I was able to quickly dial in my favorite settings in a hurry to get the shots that I wanted. While I haven’t included many of those photos here for personal reasons, I do find this to be an extremely easy camera to use for those who understand the settings and features it offers.
I never had any battery life issues and could easily go a few days under normal usage without having to worry about recharging. When I did, I appreciated the support for USB-C to get a quick charge right in the camera.
Overall, this is a camera for photographers – not newbies – mainly because the best results will be achieved by knowing how to dial in the best settings. If you want smartphone results, use a smartphone, but if you are wanting better control over the lighting, color, shadows, and shutter speed, then this camera is going to be much more satisfying to use. If that's you, then I highly recommend this camera.
Where to Buy?
CLICK HERE to learn more or buy today, or click here see other great cameras in the Fujifilm X-Series line up.
Disclosure
If you make a purchase using links found in this article, I may make a commission. It doesn’t cost you a penny more, but it does help to support future articles
