Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Which DSLR should I buy? [OLD VERSION]

 

UPDATED: THIS ARTICLE HAS MOVED – visit http://www.ronmartblog.com/2012/09/what-camera-should-i-buy-2012-edition.html to see the current version.

 

 

This is the old article which is now out of date. Please stop reading now.

- For Part II of this article see DSLR Photography on a Budget

I belong to a huge photography group of over 2300 members worldwide, and hardly a day goes by where someone doesn't say:

I'm currently shooting with a point and shoot and have decided to step up to a DSLR camera. What camera should I buy?

From there someone in the group usually asks what do you plan to do with the camera and what is your budget. The usual answer goes something like this:

I want to spent about $1000 (maybe as much as $2000 if necessary) and I want to do portraits, sports, landscapes, travel, indoor shots and macros.

Now the funny thing about this response is that pretty much encompasses the entire world of digital photography and you aren't going to be able to do all of that for $1000 (or $2000 for that matter). Usually after probing these people you find out that they have (or will soon have) a new baby and they've managed to convince their spouse that they need a DSLR to take good pictures of the baby (good argument - Canon and Nikon make millions thanks to this excuse).

Anyway, the best place to start is to realize that the DSLR world is different from the point and shoot world where one camera does everything and mediocre quality is good enough. Even though you initially will look at any DSLR picture and say OH WOW, THAT'S AWESOME. it won't take long after you get your camera before you understand the difference between a good quality photography and a poor one -- and that doesn't even account for what you think of the creativity of the shot.

You will quickly start looking at things like picture sharpness, the bokeh (the blur behind an image), chromatic aberration and the edges of an image for perspective distortion and vignetting. You don't think that now, but after you lay down for your hard earned cash for your first $1000 plus lens (and trust me my friend, you will eventually if you stay in the DSLR world), all of these things will mater to you very much. Why? -- because you'll need a reason to justify to yourself and to your significant other why you spent $3000 on the credit card to B&H last month!

Now I'll deviate from my typical response I give to photography newcomers and tell you right now that if you are going to take up DSLR photography for a living you better be prepared to spend a lot of money.

While it is true that if you are a person of infinite willpower and you isolate yourself from other photographers and the Internet that you might be happy with your original purchase, the reality is that most people find themselves spending thousands on additional gear as they get bitten by the photography bug.

If you really and truly only have $1000 to spend then now would be a wise time to reconsider your decision while your credit cards are still being paid on time and your loved ones still know what your face looks like without a camera in front of it. If this is you, then consider an outstanding point and shoot like the Canon G12 or s95, which will give you near DSLR quality without the temptation to spend thousands. For the rest of you gear heads, read on and enjoy…

Yeah, yeah, yeah - So which is it, Nikon or Canon?

As of this writing, I’m declaring Canon back in the game and no longer recommending Nikon exclusively. In my opinion, Nikon and Canon are now even with Canon at the lead at the low end. The high ISO performance war has been good as it has forced Canon to improve, but Nikon still has a slight edge. Its highest end camera, the D3s (which sells for $5200 at the time of this writing). This means if you want to take a picture without a flash when there is very little ambient light (i.e., indoors), you'll find that the pictures taken from either body won’t be as noisy those from cameras in the past from ISO 800 to 6400. For the high ISO noise war, I am ranking the major winners right now as follows: (these are not my only recommendations)

  1. Nikon D3s (B&H)
  2. Canon 1D Mark IV (B&H) – 1D Mark IV Shoppers Guide
  3. Canon 5D Mark II (B&H) – 5D Mark II Review
  4. Nikon D700 (B&H)
  5. Nikon D7000 (B&H) – See my hands on review 

If you don't currently have any investment in lenses (or a good friend or family member who will let you borrow their lenses), then you should consider the body that suits both your needs and budget as your first DSLR camera. Nikon is a more expensive platform, but expensive doesn’t mean better – it just means they feel the market can handle a price increase at this time (and sadly Canon is following them).

Naturally, any good buyer should do their own research and try each product for themselves, but beware that the opinions of Nikon versus Canon are stronger than peoples views on abortion, politics, and religion. The fact that I use Canon gear yet I still put Nikon at the top should give you an idea that I am trying to be unbiased here, but my fellow Canon brethren may have me burned at the stake for uttering such blasphemy.

The reality is that both Canon and Nikon are VERY good and you'll be happy with either platform, but I'm going to make a statement that will inflame the rest of the photography world when I say that I strongly you recommend you choose Nikon or Canon over other brands like Olympus, Sony, Pentax, etc... I say this because you'll find most of the photography books, products, etc... revolve around these two brands, so your buyers remorse is sure to be strong.

What about Micro Four-Thirds Cameras?

Camera’s like the Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF1 and other Mirrorless System Cameras have become the rage lately for their compact size and image quality that is far superior to a Point & Shoot camera, but personally I’m not interested in this platform.

It’s a great technology, but I don’t see the value in paying about the same price as you would pay for a fantastic camera like the Canon Rebel T2i yet be limited in your lens and external flash choices. I think this platform has great potential, but at this point I think it is a niche market designed for those who already have a DSLR and who are wanting a smaller trendy product.

I think my opinion of this technology will likely change as Canon and Nikon get on board so that their wide array of supporting products can be used with these technological wonders.

Okay, okay, so what camera should I get?

I’ve decided that since you need to focus on what platform you want to invest in, then from there you will likely want some guidance on the right gear for that platform. As a result I’ve included both Nikon and Canon sections and leave it up to the user as to which platform they wish to invest in.

Nikon

If you chose to go with Nikon I recommend that you consider the D7000 (see my hands on review) depending on your budget (and if you have a big budget then get the D3s or D3/D700). If that is still too much to spend then as a last resort then consider the D90.

I am no longer recommending the D5000 or D3100 because they only have Auto Focus when paired with AF-S or AF-I lenses due to its lack of a built-in focus drive motor. I think it is stupid for Nikon to be doing this at this point, especially with a cameras like the D3100 and D5000 which have so much promise. I know that to some extent that this isn’t a show stopper for some, but with all of the great cameras in Nikon’s lineup I just don’t see the point in investing in these.

I should also add that I DO NOT recommend previous generation Nikons (including the D40) as all newer bodies offer an advantage in high ISO noise reduction and image quality. If you want a good deal used, consider the D300 as it has the an outstanding performance to value ratio. If your wallet has a little extra jingling in it, then go for the D700 as it is as powerful as the mighty D3 at a much reduced price.

If I were buying a new body today from scratch, I'd probably choose the D700 as my first choice. If I had some extra change I'd do the D3s, but if things were tight I'd go with the D7000 (B&H). Nikon is doing everything right now, and has set the bar for the ISO performance war, so I expect good things out of them moving forward.

For more info visit DPReview.com and look for the “In-depth review” links (currently in green)

Canon

If you chose to go with Canon, then I'd consider going with the excellent Rebel T2i for the entry level. It’s a really nice little camera that is fun to use, and better than the Nikon D90 by quite a bit in my opinion. The next notch up from that is the 60D which I’m sad to say has taken a dip in quality from previous xxD series making it little more than a T2i with more features. Personally, I recommend that you consider the T2i or if you need more features then jump up to the most fun to use DSLR on the market today, the Canon 7D. If you want outstanding image quality and a full frame body at the expense of an outdated auto focus system (where the 7D rules), the Canon 5D Mark II is an outstanding choice. I recommend the 5D Mark II over the 1Ds Mark III unless you need the weatherproofing features it offers. If you have deep pockets, or a sports shooter (and babies count as sports) then the expensive, but fantastic 1D Mark IV is an easy choice. I own the 1D Mark IV and LOVE IT!

I do not recommend you consider older bodies unless you are on a super tight budget, in which case I recommend the 40D over the 50D. I do not advise any that you purchase any Rebel bodies below the current T1i at this point.

For more info visit DPReview.com and look for the “In-depth review” links (currently in green). I also have the following reviews:

What lens should I get? (Updated)

Since I first wrote this article I've introduced a more detailed article at http://ronmart.blogspot.com/2008/03/which-lens-should-i-buy.html to discuss the complex task of choosing the right lens. The important thing here is to buy the best lens you can afford, even if it means you have to sacrifice the quality of the body you purchase. A body is only as good as the lens it is attached to (just like the speakers on a stereo), so a $2000 camera paired with a $200 lens makes zero sense. You are also in much better shape with one great lens like 50mm than you are with some one-size fits all lens that tries to do 28mm-300mm as the later lenses are trying to defy the laws of physics and will force to live at higher ISO’s most of the time which will result in a very unsatisfying experience!

If you need more info about lens or camera basics then try reading this article http://photonotes.org/articles/beginner-faq/ (even if you are aren't a Canon photographer, most concepts are true of all camera makes).

But wait Ron, that lens is costing me my whole budget!

EXACTLY! Welcome to photography, and this is why you shouldn't even be thinking about portrait, macro photography, sports zoom, wide landscape lenses, and such right now. I said this hobby was expensive, and I really wasn't kidding! My budget when I started in Digital SLR Photography in March of 2007 was $2000 like everybody else, and here years later I've purchased enough gear to buy small car and I still haven't got everything that I wanted. This hobby is an impulse buyer's nightmare, so stay away if you don't have major self control!

So now that you know what a good lens cost, you should re-evaluate your camera body and just choose the an inexpensive new generation body (i.e., Nikon D90 or Canon T2i). If you must, consider a previous generation body while you can still get them new and on-sale or even a slightly used body (there are plenty of those from people who either realize photography is too expensive and sell their gear or who decide to upgrade their body once they've got their first $5000 in lenses).

Won't an entry level DSLR give me crappy pictures?

For most of 2007 I shot with a Canon Rebel XTi and I got great shots like this and was published in magazines. The reason why is because I was using a really good pro sports zoom lens (which has now been replaced by this). In fact, most of my shots on my personal website before 2008 were taken with my XTi and really good lenses. As I mentioned earlier, it isn't about the body - it is the lens that will determine the quality of your shots more than anything else.

If it's all about the lens why should I consider the newer camera bodies?

The answer is simple - the newer bodies do everything the older bodies do, but much better. This is especially true when using ISO 800 or greater (in fact, new bodies can usually do up to ISO 6400 very well and some are even usable at 12,800). In addition, today's DSLR's are little computers, so the performance of the newer cameras will result in more successful photo shoots thanks to improvements in auto focus, noise reduction and more.

But my friend says I should get X, Y & Z

Just like with computers, in the photography world nearly everybody (myself included) thinks they are experts when 99% of them really don't know jack. Be an intelligent shopper and use this article as a starting point, but don't take my word for it. Go to a local camera shop and play with the gear (BUT DON'T BUY), and do a lot of research on the web before you decide on what to get.

You'll find the following sites helpful in your quest to determine what you should get:

Where do I buy?

I recommend buying online over shopping local. You save taxes, have a better return policy (no restocking fees) and in some cases you’ll save taxes. If you want to save money, and get your gear from the most respected name in photography in the United States, then I HIGHLY recommend B&H (article about B&H). I also love Amazon.comaltand Adorama. I've bought 95% of my gear from B&H haven't had any major problems. If you need to return something it is best to get an RMA within 14 days and the packaging must be in resalable shape, but other than that they usually get things right. Remember this when opening your packages and do like I do – take photos as you open it so you can put it back if you want to return it!

Feel free to contact me if you are struggling on the final details of your purchase, but if you do I ask that you use a link on my blog when purchasing. I earn a commission when you use my links and that is what funds this blog so that I can bring you all the great articles it provides. Sadly many people over the last year have chosen to use my information and then buy elsewhere, and that is putting the future of this blog at risk. If you can’t (for geographic reasons) or don’t want to use my links, I ask you to use the donate link (no signup required) and contribute an amount that you think is fair (commissions are generally 3% of the purchase price).  Using my links are the best way though because your price is the same, and I get the commission so we both win!

Thanks for your support!

What book should I get?

I've written a very popular blog article to cover the important subject about which books to read so you can make the most of your DSLR experience.

Does this mean I don't need to read my camera manual?

NO!!!! Your camera manual, no matter how poorly written, is an excellent resource that should be read from cover to cover about once a month for the first few months you own your camera until you know your cameras main features by heart. In fact, I highly recommend starters view this tutorial. It’s old, and it is for the Canon Rebel XT, BUT it is applies to both Canon and Nikon cameras (cameras change, but these core concepts still apply). In fact, I like this tutorial so much I use it for my classes! The creator of this tutorial also has a great iPhone/iPad app.

But what about flashes, tripods, camera bags, etc...

I have a digital workflow software article which I need to update badly as it is way out of date, but at a high level it is still worth reading. I also am a huge fan of Think Tank Photo camera bags, and don’t recommend any others – here’s why. For flashes, On-Camera Flash Techniques is a THE book to start with (Canon and Nikon). Right now I only recommend the Nikon SB-900 and Canon 580EX II. Sure there are cheaper options, but these flashes produce outstanding results and work well both controlling other off-camera flashes as well as being fired off-camera through light modifiers (i.e., umbrellas). If you buy the cheaper flashes, you’ll regret it at some point (again, unless you are the type to buy and never read about Photography on the Internet again).

What’s in your bag?

While the contents of my gear collection is always changing, I try to keep things up to date in my What’s in my bag article.

Do you get paid to recommend things?

No, I make my recommendations with no influence from any third party. They are my independent opinion based on my own research. However, if you buy something using a link on this site then I may get a commission. I'd appreciate if you supported this blog by using my links, but honestly I do this because I enjoy helping people. Here’s my full disclosure document if you are concerned I’m hiding something about how this “for profit” blog works.

Where to go from here?

For more information, part II of this topic can be found at DSLR Photography on a Budget and my Best of RonMart.Blogspot.com article. You can save big bucks here too.

If you are interested in printing your own photos, then my printing series is a huge hit with a ton of information including interviews and tips from the best master printers in the country!

If you enjoyed this article, please support future articles like this by making a donation or saving money by using my discount coupon codes. Either way, your support is greatly appreciated!

This blog is intended for freelance writing and sharing of opinions and is not a representative of any of the companies whose links are provided on this site.

The opinions provided are of Ron Martinsen alone and do not reflect the view of any other entity

20 comments:

Kmuzu said...

There is more to heaven and earth than just Canon and Nikon. Five years ago you would have been correct but the world has changed. There are a whole spectrum of cameras that suit anyone's particular need.

I purchased a Pentax K-x because I have MS and hand tremors. Pentax has superior image stabilization to the Canon and Nikon.

Unless you have serious lens lust there is nothing really special about Canon or Nikon. Both Sony and Samsung are quickly overtaking the prosumer market and I'm convinced Sony will knock Nikon off its pedestal in the professional realm. Have you seen the lenses Sony offers now?

Mirrorless cameras are on their way and here to stay. The Sony NEX 5 and the Olympus E-PL1 are good examples of where the industry is heading.

Last neither Canon nor Nikon have the R&D Chutzpah that Sony and Samsung have. And cameras these days are basically computers with lenses.

Ron Martinsen said...

Thanks for your opinion Kmuzu.

I'm glad you are enjoying your Pentax and I'm sure there are many others like you who do as well - just as there are people who enjoy their Sony, Olympus, etc... cameras as well.

With that said, I respectfully disagree and stick with my opinion as stated in my article. While the brands you list make be making headway into the entry-level (especially in the micro four thirds where Canon and Nikon don't currently offer a product), they are non-existent at the pro events that I have participated in - including the Olypmics (at least while I was at the Media Press Center I never once saw anything but Canon and Nikon cameras for professional use).

You are correct in your assertion that just because they are popular, that doesn't mean they are flawless - I agree. I don't doubt your claim that some of the brands may actually be better in some way, but taken as a collective my recommendation is that people should stick to Nikon and Canon.

As a successful 25+ year programmer, I can also remind you that while cameras these days are basically computers with lenses - it's the software that goes into those computers (and in Canon and Nikon's case - it's based on years of feedback and refinement from the best pros in the world) that make one machine perform differently than another. In addition, while all lenses are "just glass" - it's the materials used for that glass, the engineering of their construction, and the quality of their assembly that constitutes the quality of their output on what is the most important piece of hardware in the photographic process.

sthomas-blog said...

I agree with Kmuzu on the Sony part. They are really putting some money into their R&D and the new dslr's they are bringing out are really feature packed and bang for the buck. Take for example the Live View on the Sony dslrs, their proprietary new technology allows for fast focusing in live view that neither Canon nor Nikon can provide.

All that said, I own a Canon dslr and am still a Canon die hard fan..

Irwin Preet Singh said...

Excellent article. However, what makes you state the Canon t2i is better than Nikon d90? Reviews and opinions elsewhere state the opposite. Also, with t3i coming it, does it become the beginners camera for those choosing Canon?

Ron Martinsen said...

Irwin Preet Singh,

My opinion comes from watching my students and club members actually use the D90 vs T2i in the real world.

If you've followed my blog for a while you would have seen that prior to the T2i, the D90 was what I recommended. I go back and forth between Nikon and Canon based on real world testimonials and my actual experience using these cameras when I teach (or when they are sent to me for review).

I need to update the article for the latest cameras like the T3i, but I'm a really big fan of the D7000 - it's an excellent camera. Check out the right column under Gear Reviews to see my D7000 and 24-120 review.

Anonymous said...

Sorry to be anonymous....

I am a Nikon user who is not happy. After spending time going through Photozone and carefully studying lenses, it sure seems Canon offers a larger number of "Highly Recommended" lenses. Nikon has some great lenses there are only a few that end up "Highly Recommended". I'd really like to try a Canon 7D and one "Highly Recommended" lens to see if I connect with it. Yet...the 7D is now a little long in the tooth and so I'm on the fence. I agree with your sentiment that photography is all about the lens. What is your opinion on this?

Thanks and I really enjoy the blog.
Dean

Joel J said...

Ron - thanks for all of the great information. Your site has been very helpful.

I'm wondering if you've had a chance to look at a comparison between the Canon EOS 60D and the Nikon D5100.

I understand the issue with Nikon and the olderAF/AFS lenses, but I will be buying new lenses so that doesn't concern me as much.

Thoughts?

Ron Martinsen said...

Anonymous -> The 7D is the best non-Pro Canon body I think that Canon has made. It's very user friendly, has great fast action performance, and lots of great features. With that said, I wish the sensor didn't try to pack so many megapixels into its sensor because the net result is that the images aren't as sharp and as detailed as say an older 40D (in my opinion on factors that matter to me). Sensor-wise the Nikon D7000 is a big improvement over the 60D or 7D in my opinion (especially in high ISO noise performance - it ha sa 1 stop advantage).

With that said, if you don't pixel peep and obsess, both Canon and Nikon create outstanding images that you will be very happy with. The same can be said of the lenses. Canon has a wider line up of excellent lenses, but there are some cases where the Nikon equivalent is much sharper (Nikon's 24-70 2.8 blows away Canon's, and Canon currently has no equal to Nikon's amazing 14-24 and 200-400 f/4 (although Canon has announced one coming in the future).

I wouldn't put much stock into hte "Highly Recommended" thing because lenses aren't reviewed on the same day, so an older lens might have been reviewed on a 20D and called "Highly Recommended" whereas if it were reviewed today on a 5D Mark II it might get a poor rating. A good exmaple is the 100-400 from Canon which I love - great lens, but it's below par for the new wave of a Canon and Nikon lenses that have been released.

The overally point here is that if there are Canon lenses that you think will be critical to your kit that Nikon doesn't offer, then you should care about lenses. If not, then your decision should probably be based on which platform as a whole creates the results you desire. It's a toss up - and even I go back and forth - so you really can't go wrong with either. I shoot Canon because that's the platform I picked and made my investment in, but if I was given an equivalent Nikon kit I'd be just as happy (and enjoy the 1 stop ISO performance and despise the AWB of the Nikon platform compared to Canon).

If you already have a major investment in lenses (which I'd describe as $3000 or greater), then I'd stick with that platform and not switch camps.

Ron Martinsen said...

Joel J,

My advice to you is that if you go with Nikon then spend the extra money and get the D7000 - it's one of the most enjoyable Nikon camera's I've used. I prefer the D7000 over the D300 and in some ways even more than the D700.

I was very dissapointed with the 60D. Personally I'd choose a T3i over 60D as the 60D isn't in the same league as a 40D or earlier which were solid semi-pro cameras. If you want more than the T3i offers then jump up to the 7D.

If I was given a choice between a 7D and a D7000 for free I'd choose the 7D, unless I planned to do a lot of sports in which case I'd have to choose the 7D.

I hope that helps.

Anonymous said...

Ron,

I have purchased the Canon EOS 60D last Saturday, with 15-135 lens and 70-300 lens (salesperson raved about Canon's new 7-300mm with image stabilization).

The day after started doubting whether I should have gone for the Nikon D7000 instead. Went back to store, felt both, Nikon D7000 has slightly faster burst, Canon 60D felt slightly better in my hands. Will decide on Saturday whether I will change (store allows this).

When searching online, I see many experts conclude they are very close, both excellent camera, though the D7000 would be the better camera in the view of most.

Why are you so negative about the 60D - can you explain? I guess you're saying go for D7000, or Canon Rebel T3i rather than EOS 60D - but I don't know why.

Miriam

PS bird/wildlife photography has my special interest

Ron Martinsen said...

Hi Miriam,

If you don't think about it to much, the Canon 60D is a fine camera. However, I've had the luxury of access to a lot of different cameras from Canon and Nikon and I was very disappointed with both the 50D & 60D. The 60D especially let me down as the build quality was far below previous generations xxD cameras from Canon making it not much more than a Rebel with a few extra features. The T3i offers advanced features like a built-in ST-E2 flash controller (so you can control your flashes off camera without extra hardware or flashes - just like the 7D), what I perceive as better image quality and higher ISO results based on real world experience I've witnessed with both cameras, so I see little reason to upgrade to the 60D over the T3i.

The D7000 is an excellent camera that has a better high ISO performance and is a joy to use. Honestly I would like to buy one myself and if I had the extra cash, I would.

Here's the thing though - once you've got something you are happy with, stop thinking about the purchase and start enjoying it. Cameras are like all electronics - it's easy to get buyers remorse and second guess yourself.

The 70-300 L lens (not the non-L) is an excellent lens, so if you got that then you'll enjoy it quite a bit. The 18-135 isn't anything spectacular so it wouldn't be my first choice, but it's a good value for a wide range so it might be a good starter lens. See my what lens should I buy article to see what I recommend and how you can do your own research to figure out if you made the right choice.

Good luck and thanks for supporting the blog!

Deepak said...

i wish to purchase a dslr camera for capturing birds.thinking of 600d 0r 550d....... which according to u? what lens for capture from 50 meters for a bird of six inches?

Amber said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Ron Martinsen said...

Amber,

Sorry for not replying sooner.

If you are still looking then I'd say go for the T3i - it's a great starter camera that I think you'll be very pleased with.

The 7D has better burst mode performance and features, but for someone getting started the T3i is a much easier camera to use.

Yes, you will see a big improvement! All legitimate retailers will take your camera back if you aren't satisfied, so if you have the funds I think you'll be pleased.

A used Canon 40D is another way to go if you want to try out DSLR photography without making that much of an investment now.

You should also look on the right side of my blog for my Noiseware article - it's great software to get rid of the noise from your image no matter what camera you use.

Mariner said...

I am still strugling on which SLR to get. I had it narrowed down to Nikon and Canon, which is one reason I found your post so interesting. I have only ever used my friends old Canon Rebel (9+ years ago?). I have been using the Canon Powershot G7 and G11, as I like how small it is but I get nice pictures. I recently went on a trip to Peru, and was very dissapointed in my pictures and how slow the camera was. I brought along my old but high quality Nikon film camera. I was so much happier with the film camera (other than I had to manualy focus which I dont like), it made me decide to go with the digital SLR.

I like that I can just pick it up and take a pic quickly, and the next shot as well. I want to be able to quickly take pictures of wildlife, people in motion, and objects while I am moving (like I am on a boat taking a picture of the shore. I care about taking pictures with no flash in low light as well.

I am only taking pictures for fun, but do a lot of traveling and take a LOT of pics. I want better quality pictures and more options, but I dont like to have to do a lot of post processing. I am an engineer and understnad the basics of photograry and am willing to get to know my camera to get the most out of it.

But, I dont need a professional SLR body. I am planning on buying the high quality lens though. I was leaning towards the Canons, but I still cant decide. For me, do you think I would get the benift of the 7D over the T2i? Is one of the Nikon's going to better suit my needs? I have read a lot of the info on your blog, but I dont know anyone who has an SLR and until I use it for some time, I am not sure I would know if it was the right camera for me. I really apreciate any insight you might have.

Ron Martinsen said...

Mariner,

If you want to reuse your existing Nikon lenses then the D7000 is an excellent choice (assuming they are F-mount lenses). If you don't care about that and will only be using the camera occasionally then a T2i or its replacement the T3i is a great choice.

If you'll be taking pictures of action (i.e., sports or babies) then the 7D's performance is pretty hard to beat for that price.

I'm guessing that the Nikon D7000 might be a good fit for you if you don't mind manually focusing those lenses still. If you are going to get new lenses anyway then it's just personal preference as both platforms have their strengths and weaknesses. Canon's in-camera color & white balance is much better, but Nikon has an advantage with less noise at higher ISO's.

Nauman said...

Excellent article/information which has made me confident to go for canon 600d or the T3i. I've been going crazy trying to decide between 60d, 600d, or d7000. More inclined towards canon due to a decent sized inventory of lenses both ef and fd.

Thanks & regards,
Nauman

aditya said...

Hi Ron,

Thanks for such a nice blog.... I am looking to buy a DSLR and made no investment in Canon or Nikon, so far. I am totally confused and not sure which way to move ahead? Can you please suggest me one... After some research I narrowed down to these bodies...
Canon T3i
Canon 7D
Nikon D7000

Ron Martinsen said...

Of those three, I'd for this one because of the high ISO performance, but you can't go wrong with any of them.

aditya said...

Thanks Ron, for such a quick reply. After reading your blog and thinking through. Considering my budget and experience t3i makes more sense to me. Do you think d7000 is a better option for a starter like me.