What Camera Should I Buy? 2015 Edition (Updated June 9 2015)

Before you buy the Canon T6i/760D or the Nikon D5500, read this ENTIRE article!

In a hurry? Skip to the recommendations in bold orange, but hopefully you’ll take the time to read this entire article for maximum benefit!

One of the articles that put this blog on the map was my famous “Which DSLR should I buy?” article. I’ve updated it several times throughout the years, but enough in the industry has changed that it’s time for an all-new rewrite. Things aren’t quite as simple as they used to be, so my current advice might surprise my long-term readers as my views have evolved.

This article is a bit long and involved, but I encourage anyone looking to purchase a new camera to read it as my objective is to steer you down the right path with information you need to know. Hang in there, as I think it’ll be worth the read.

FACT: Photography is more expensive than you think

Photography is more appealing than ever before with our friends posting great images on Facebook, Google+, Flickr, 500px, etc… When we go to Costco, Fry’s, Best Buy, etc… the allure of the cool new camera is super tempting, but before you bite the bullet you should take a deep breath and know what you are getting in to. In fact, in my DSLR Photography on a Budget article I quickly prove how that entry level $489 camera quickly becomes $4000 in a heartbeat.

Hardly a day goes by where someone doesn't ask me or my colleagues:

I'm currently shooting with a point and shoot and have decided to step up to a DSLR or Mirrorless camera. What camera should I buy?

This of course begs the question “what do you plan to do with the camera and what is your budget?” The usual answer goes something like this:

I want to spent about $1000 (maybe as much as $2000 if necessary) and I want to do portraits, sports, landscapes, travel, indoor shots and macros.

Their response pretty much encompasses the entire world of digital photography, so it’s get real time – you aren't going to be able to do all of that for $1000 (or $2000 for that matter) with the quality level that you are expecting to get.

After probing the typical buyer, the story usually goes that they have (or will soon have) a new baby and they've managed to convince their spouse that they need a better camera to take good pictures of the baby. This is a great and often successful argument which make camera companies billions each year thanks to this excuse.

However, the fact about photography is that there are lots of hidden costs in lenses, lighting, accessories, software, education, etc… that can easily consume tens of thousands of dollars. Don’t believe me? Take a look at the price of Hasselblad medium format cameras where you quickly see the sky is the limit. Of course, you aren’t thinking about that now – you are just looking to get a $400 camera via that great end cap deal at Sam’s or Costco right? That’s where we all start, but this drug called photography takes hold and the next thing you know you are spending $500 here, $1000 there on lenses,  tripods, camera bags, Photoshop, Lightroom, plug-ins, flashes, lens filters, memory cards, and so much more. The list of things to buy just never ends!  

With this in mind, THINK CAREFULLY about what you really can afford to spend and read on with what is the best path for you to take.

Deciding What You Really Need

Camera Purchase Decision Tree - Yes up, No down

Now this is a decision tree that a typical guy doesn’t want to see because your probably thinking – but I saw that kit at Costco for $450 and it has a DSLR with a mega optical zoom lens – that’s everything I need! However, that’s like buying one of those cheap Android laptops for $79 and thinking it has everything you need. Now if you own one of those cheap Android laptops and are happy then read no more and go get that camera, but if you are the type that has discovered the pitfalls of cheap electronics then read on.

Now for the first green rectangle I say $500, but realistically I should put $3000. I’m being optimistic here for those who really have self control – you know, the kind of people whose entire household electronics gross purchase price is less than $2000. If that’s not you, then replace that first box with $3000.

Camera Purchase Decision Tree #2 - Yes up, No down

Now there’s really another spin on this to keep in mind that I’ll get into later on in this article, and that’s about how important it is to shoot indoors and sports. The reason why is that when you go indoors you need a camera that performs well with higher ISO’s to reduce the amount of digital noise in the image as well as allowing you to have faster shutter speeds so you can capture images without motion blur. As of the time this article was written, ISO 25,600 was about the maximum usable ISO any camera I’ve ever seen (despite actual ISO’s being has high as 409,600 which produce unusable images). Of course, the highest ISO’s come from highest end pro cameras like the incredible (and expensive) Nikon D4s.

Canon EOS 1 DX ($5,299) in-camera image at ISO 25,600

Noise reduction software (at an additional expense) can help quite a bit with the noise, but if the source image has too much noise the noise reduction software will destroy the detail.

As of the time this article was written, the maximum ISO I’d feel comfortable using from the best of the best mirrorless cameras is 25,600 but all but the best start to do poorly by ISO 6400(similar noise to ISO 51,200 on the $6000+ cameras).

This is VERY important to know because every exposure you take requires a:

• Aperture adjustment (for depth-of-field creative intent),
• Shutter speed adjustment (to freeze or blur motion), and
• ISO adjustment to add light so that larger depth of field or shutter speeds can be used

The smaller the aperture f-stop number, the more light you have so the faster your shutter speed can go (up to a point).  The higher the ISO, then larger aperture f-stop numbers can numbers can be used and/or shutter speeds. Flashes are a bit of an exception to the rule, but generally speaking your take away here should be:

• Small f-stop number (i.e., f/2.8) means shallow depth of field with the benefit of more light
• Large f-stop number (i.e., f/22) means greater depth of field at the expense of light
• Fast shutter speed (i.e., 1/125 sec for people, 1/250 sec+ for moving objects) means action freezing ability for sharp images. Sports is even more demanding because it often needs 1/1000 to 1/2000+ sec which comes at the expense of light (i.e. faster the speed, more ISO and/or smaller aperture needed).
• Slow shutter speeds aren’t good for moving objects, but with tripods they can be used to keep ISO’s low for long exposures (i.e., seconds) for pictures of static objects (i.e., landscapes)
• Lower ISO means less noise but needs more light. Typically ISO 100 – 200 is the preferred ideal for minimal noise.
• Higher ISO means more noise but more light for larger aperture f-stop numbers and/or faster shutter speeds

So here’s the rub – if you want small f-stop number lenses, or high ISO cameras that means money – that’s what’s needed to get the best indoor performance and it’s required for sports (especially at night).

Got Kids? You’re an Indoor Sports Shooter!

Canon EOS 5D Mark III
70-200mm lens, f/2.8 @70 mm, 1/160, ISO 25,600 with Noise Reduction

The number one mistake people make when they upgrade their camera is that they forget that the absolute most difficult subject to shoot is a moving toddler indoors at night.

Why? Because typically our houses aren’t lit like a movie studio. Our dim orange tungsten light means we need super high ISO’s and our toddlers are constantly moving which means fast shutter speeds.

I’m doomed if I’m not using at least 1/320 sec with my son – 1/500+ is ideal. Kid’s are also super unpredictable so they need the most advanced auto focus system to perform in these extreme conditions.

The shot above doesn’t look like much, but let’s take a look at how much my gear cost me to get that shot (at the time it was taken):

• Canon 5D Mark III Camera (body only) – $3499
• Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM lens – $2499
• Adobe Lightroom 4.x – $139.95 (for RAW processing and image management)
• Adobe Photoshop CS6 – $649.95 (for layer masks to do selective noise reduction)
• Noiseware noise reduction software – $79.95
• Nik Software Color Efex Pro – $199.95 (at the time this was taken)

Total cost – $7,067.80 USD for a shot that honestly isn’t that special. Why is this shot so expensive? Because I’m shooting a moving kid which requires a fast shutter speed at night in my house which requires high ISO. You’ll notice that 1/160 sec shutter speed, f/2.8 and ISO 25,600 are all numbers that require big money and even that required post-processing. Here’s a link to how the shot looked when it came out of the camera before post-processing, so the $6000 worth of camera and lens were just the beginning!

Now, I could have used a cheaper f/2.8 lens and you can do things to reduce your software cost, but realize this point up front – THIS STUFF GETS EXPENSIVE FAST! If you don’t spend the money, you aren’t going to get the results you expect!  Kids indoors at night (when we most often shoot them – after dinner/work), is the most challenging thing you can do so be prepared! (Oh, and the 2nd worst – indoor sports/plays at school).

Mirrorless cameras are starting to close the gap (Summer 2015 thoughts)

After testing the Fujifilm X-T1 and Sony A7 I must say that these are really the first mirrorless cameras that have the potential to keep up with the DSLR’s for the tough duty of indoor shooting with active kids (when paired with a fast focusing lens). Newer models are constantly being released like the Sony A7II and Fujifilm X-T10 that are sure to only narrow that gap, and other models that I haven’t tested yet are probably encroaching on the DSLR’s too. I’ll add more models here after I’ve validated them with real world testing.

I still can confirm that an affordable DSLR like the Nikon D7200 (or better) will certainly outperform these models from a focusing performance standpoint (mostly due to superior focusing motors in the lenses). However, these newer mirrorless units have the burst mode and continuous focus improvements to almost keep up with the big boys so this gap is getting more narrow.

Slow focusing means it is tough to get a sharp image at the beginning of the burst mode and sometimes can result in an entire series being blurry. However, under the right conditions (i.e., bright light outdoors) they can perform very well. These new mirrorless cameras are starting to have reasonable performance at ISO 25,600 so you can crank your shutter speed up enough to get the shot.

Pro Point & Shoot Cameras

Taken with a Fujifilm x10, but now its replacement (the x30) is one of my favorite pro p&s camera

Don’t have $7000 to spend on camera gear? Well, fear not – you can still get some decent shots on your vacation or of your kids with a high quality point and shoot. Now, when I say high quality I’m not talking about the sub $300 crap you find at your typical electronics store. I’m talking about the stuff that pros use when they need to pack light for their own personal outings.

I’ll be clear and say that cameras in this price range aren’t going to outperform mirrorless or DSLR cameras because they have a tiny sensor that makes compromises to quality. However, the higher end models (typically $399 and up) have come a LONG way to create results that can beat some older model digital SLR’s. Of course, the bigger the point and shoot, typically the better the quality, but it comes at the expense of size.

Currently, my recommendation for the best camera in this class is the Fujifilm X30. It’s predecessor, the X10, was my 2011 point and shoot of the year, and the x10/x20 are what I use for my own personal vacations and family snapshots. While you aren’t going to freeze motion from your fast moving toddler in your family room at night, you can get some great shots under less challenging conditions. See the right hand column (or reviews page) for a link to my articles my latest camera reviews. My second runner up based purely on its burst mode performance would be the Canon G16, but I’ll admit that’s a bit of an old camera so I need to test some of the newer models.

If you want a more compact camera at then my next recommendation (based purely on size) is the Sony DSC-RX100 III is probably the best choice. It offers both a great size and outperform the cheaper models I’ve tested, but its not especially user friendly so don’t expect perfection with auto modes. There are lots of other models which get good press, but honestly I’ve found that the iPhone 6/6s can outperform most of the cheaper models.

Mirrorless Cameras

Sony A7R - f/5.6 @ 35 mm, 1/60, ISO 5000, No Flash, Handheld

The hot area in digital photography right now are mirrorless cameras which offer a compact size (compared to DSLR’s) and often offer interchangeable lenses. This makes them appealing because their larger sensors (compared to point and shoots) translate to much better image quality. In fact, some current generation mirrorless cameras can outperform last generation and entry level current generation DSLR’s. Of course, this comes at a cost as typically these cameras have a price that exceeds the entry level DSLR and rivals that of the mid-range pro DSLR’s.

When the quality of these cameras sucked like the much over-hyped Nikon 1 (both V1 & J1), I told people to stay away from them. I am still not impressed with many of the models still offered, but there are some out there that have knocked my socks off. Generally speaking, I suggest you consider Sony, Olympus and Fujifilm when looking for smaller body cameras as those are the market leaders right now with quality that is sure to please.

Now one word of warning is that some excellent performing popular mirrorless cameras like the Fujifilm X100t and Sony DSC-RX1 (and its replacement the RX1R) do not offer interchangeable lenses. In fact, the built in lens doesn’t even zoom so I consider these to be specialty cameras for geeks rather than something a typical camera buyer will enjoy. Sure they take amazing photos, but I DO NOT recommend this class of camera. Yes, their quality can be good, but it comes at a steep trade off in flexibly so I consider this an option for people who are looking for their third > $1000 camera.

I loved my Fujiflim x10 &  x20, so I invested in a X-E2 hand haven’t regretted it. It creates gorgeous images and has fantastic lenses but this again is a camera that is better suited to enthusiasts with advanced camera experience. The king of the Fujifilm cameras is the X-T1 which offers fantastic burst mode performance with easy access the controls a serious photographer needs (without fumbling through menus), and the X-T10 is sure to be a hot seller!

My primary recommendations in this class are the Sony a6000, a7II (or Sony a7R / a7RII if you only care about megapixels) and the Fujifilm X-T1. I’m still testing, but I’m suspecting that my runner up is going to be the Olympus OMD-5 Mark II. I also recommend the Fujifilm X-E2 (and its inevitable replacement) as that is what I use personally. These cameras have outperformed everything I’ve ever tested in the mirrorless category. The Canon EOS M sounded exciting on paper, but disappointed me just about as much as the G1X so I don’t recommend either one (nor their newer replacements). Panasonic’s GF6 is another camera you’ll hear people recommend, but it left me disappointed.

There’s lots of cameras in this category, and I don’t have all of my reviews online so if you want to know more then just contact me. However, please be respectful of my time – if you have no intention of making your purchase via my links or making a donation then please do not contact me.

Digital Single Lens Reflex Cameras (DSLR)

Nikon D800 100% Crop Eye Detail

To the uneducated, more megapixels means better right? Well, not exactly. Have you ever noticed how some cheap point and shoot cameras like the Sony DSC-WX220 offer 18.2 megapixels but when you compare them to the 18.1 megapixel Canon EOS 1D X (for $5299) they don’t even come close in quality? The reason why is that the larger the sensors physical size then the more pixel data for creating the image is available, so pixel density and other technology factors come into play to determine the real quality. Despite this fact, people still don’t get it.

When the pixel quality is good as is the case with the Nikon D810 (36.3mp), when you get too many pixels you also face other new challenges. These include more noise at lower ISO’s and faster shutter speeds become required to avoid registering movement as motion blur with all of those pixels. As a result, shutter speeds which might be fine for the Nikon D4s or D610 with the Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8 VR II lens end up introducing motion blur with the D810 (which I found to require 1/200 sec at 200mm even with VR enabled vs the D4s where as little as 1/30 sec was possible for static subjects).

Newer mirrorless models like the Sony A7R (replaced by the a7RII) also have the same issue.

How many megapixels are really necessary?

The Canon 6D has plenty of detail without the challenges of shooting with the D810 or Sony a7RII
The image above is an in-camera 6D JPEG with ZERO post-processing

When deciding on megapixels, what you really need to think about is what will you be doing with your images. For most of us, it’s putting them on the web and very rarely we print them – typically at 4x6”. If that is the case, then if you take a high resolution pro printer like the Epson 4900 at its 360 pixels per inch and do the math ((4 x 360) x (6 x 360)) you end up with only 3 megapixels needed for the perfect image that isn’t scaled. If your output is to a display, then you don’t even need 1 megapixels because you’ll throw most of them away for your 72 to 96 pixels per inch display. What’s more, with products like Photoshop or Perfect Resize you can easily triple the size of your image and get fantastic results printing, so 12 megapixels can get you a reasonable quality print that is 24” wide by 36” tall. Granted, printers will take advantage of those extra megapixels when doing large prints and avoiding resizing is going to give you better results, but the reality is that most of us will never print larger than 8x12” which is what 12 megapixels will do without scaling. (For more info on printing, see my Printing Series or read my Printing 101 book). 

With this in mind, who really needs a 36.3 megapixel Nikon D810 or the 36.4 Sony a7R? The answer is only pros printing billboard size images because for most of us we’ll have to downsize those images and throw away most of the pixels anyway! I personally think the Nikon’s cheaper sibling, the Nikon D610 or D750 and Sony’s a7II are probably a better choice for most. Even the much cheaper D7200 offers such high resolution that most will never have a practical real world output (print or web) that ever shows the benefit of the D810.

If you’re the type who can’t think beyond more megapixels, the best > 25mp camera I’ve ever tested was the Sony a7R. It has lots of faults, but not even the medium format cameras I’ve tested had better overall performance than the a7R. I’m sure the A7RII is going to be spectacular!

While I’ve seen good things in real life from the Canon 5Ds/5DsR, I haven’t

Click here to also see what a difference a lens can make even with a 18 megapixel camera. Often times, it’s not the camera that is letting you down – it’s the lens and person pushing the shutter release button!

DSLR’s - Canon, Nikon or Sony?

The big players in the Digital SLR market are Canon and Nikon, but since Sony makes Nikon’s sensors they have become a value option that many consider. Personally, I think if you are going to go with a Digital SLR there’s really only two choices – Canon or Nikon. The reason why is because of the wealth of lenses and accessory products available for these brands make them a better long term investment. After all, you saw above how you can spend thousands on DSLR gear, so when you pick a platform you want to make sure you don’t switch later as you’ll lose your shirt by selling all of your used gear.

There’s also the “friend factor” whereby you can typically find a friend with a Canon or Nikon lens that they may be willing to let you borrow (at least in their presence) so you can try to see if a lens is right for you. There’s also great lens rentals companies like LensRentals.com which offer more selection in the the top two brands.

Please note, that I’m not saying that Sony products are bad – I’m just advising you on the reality of the market and how to best protect your investment in a platform. Sony fan boys will disagree, but don’t be fooled. Even Nikon cameras with “the same” sensor as Sony’s will outperform them due to both better lenses but more importantly better supporting image processors. When compared head to head (and you can see for yourself on dpreview.com), my eyes always see a clear advantage of Nikon over Sony equivalents.

Personally I prefer Canon as that’s where I’ve made my investment, but Nikon is an excellent platform too. Each has their pros and cons, but my eyes prefer the images I get from Canon better IN THE CURRENT GENERATION over Nikon. For the last two generations of products, I preferred Nikon’s superior high ISO performance over Canon and as of 2015 Nikon has the better sensors. Both are sure to please and post-processing puts them on an equal plane, so ignore the haters out who argue their preferences as intensely as Apple vs Android, Windows vs Mac, Democrat vs Republican, Pro-Choice vs Pro-Life, etc…

What I DO NOT recommend is switching back and forth between Canon and Nikon. Once you pick one, stick with it as the odds are “the best” camera or lenses will alternate from release wave to release wave. As a result, if you are feeling Canon or Nikon envy, your views will likely change a few years later when those in the other camp envy your platform.

Mirrorless - Sony, Fujifilm, Olympus, Etc…

When you go to the mirrorless platform, Canon and Nikon underperform my opinion. Fujifilm’s X series does almost everything right – except for its indoor autofocus and it lacks full-frame. Sony has stepped into the lead from an image quality standpoint, but they have usability issues that keep me from really wanting to own one despite their class leading sensor. Olympus is third based on my testing (and I’m testing the new OMD-M5 Mark II now). Nothing I’ve tested beyond these have captured my attention, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t some sleeper hits out there (like the a6000). Overall my favorite platform has to go to Fujifilm, but image quality wise the new a7/a7R (and their replacements – the a7II and a7RII) are the best.

2015 Camera Recommendations

As of June 9, 2015 my recommendations are as follows:

• Pro Sports Camera: Nikon D4s (but I use the 1Dx because I prefer Canon lenses) 
• Pro Wedding/Event Photography Camera: Nikon D750 (runner up: Canon 5D Mark III)
• Large Megapixel Camera: Sony a7R (only because of its superior high ISO performance over Nikon) or Nikon D810 – ONLY if you FREQUENTLY print above 24x36” (61x92 cm) and shoot on tripods or under studio lights. Be sure to consider the superior lens selection for Nikon before making your final decision. 
• Best Bang for the Buck Mid-Priced DSLR’s:  Nikon D610 or Canon 6D
• Best Camera for Parents: Nikon D7200 (although the wedding/event recommendations above are better if you can afford it)
• Best Budget Camera: Nikon D7200 or Sony a6000
• Best Mirrorless Camera: TBD – there’s been a flurry of new models lately so I need to do more testing to render a winner. The a6000 is excellent and I’m sure the a7II and a7RII will exceed the results I got with their predecessors. I also expect the X-T10 to outperform the Fujifilm X-T1 that I tested. I’m also still testing the Olympus OMD-5 Mark which I expect to perform well.
• Best Point & Shoot for Parents: Fujifilm x30 (or Sony RX-100 III if you shoot manual and must have a small camera body)

Given the great advancement with mirrorless cameras, I no longer feel comfortable recommending the Canon Rebel T6i/T6s or Nikon D3300 for the DSLR category. I think the better mirrorless cameras will outperform cheaper DSLR’s in every way now.  This is not to say that these are bad cameras, but more times than not I think that buyers will feel disappointed with these models. If I was forced to recommend a entry DSLR model, I’d favor the Rebel T6s/760D(my review) purely for its ease of use and advanced video features (especially with the new STM lenses). However, I still think the Nikon D7200 blows most of the budget models away so I’d encourage buyers to consider it instead.

The Canon 7D Mark II (my review) offers great 10 frames per second performance, but its image quality is inferior to the D7200 in my opinion. It’s a nice camera with a great value, so if you want to stick with the Canon platform then that’s the way to go. It’s also smoking fast compared to the D7200, so its my recommended Sports on a Budget camera.

Recommended Accessories

Check out this article to learn about the things I think you’ll need after you get your camera. It’s common for people to underestimate what’s required beyond just the camera and lens, so I strongly encourage you to read my  Things You Need AFTER You Buy Your New Camera - Must Have Photography Accessories article.

For computers, I still prefer PC desktops running Windows 7.  Anything that can run Photoshop or Lightroom is going to be good enough for most peoples needs, so Macs running OSX, Windows 8.1 PC’s and laptops (such as my favorites from Asus and Macbook Pro’s) are generally fine these days. I use and like both platforms, so don’t get into religious wars here. Use the platform you have now and just get the good software like Lightroom and Photoshop. Good plug-ins help too, so be sure to read my What plug-ins should I buy? (for Photoshop & Lightroom) article.

IF YOU LIKED THIS ARTICLE

If you found this article helpful then please share it with your friends via social networks like Facebook, Twitter, Google+, etc… as well as posting links to my article(s) on your favorite online forums. This helps me a A LOT!

In addition, if you purchase using links found on my blog then I may make a small commission which supports this blog. If you wish to purchase elsewhere or can’t purchase from my partners then please consider making a donation to help keep this blog going!

Other articles you may enjoy

• Things You Need AFTER You Buy Your New Camera - Must Have Photography Accessories
• Which lens should I buy?
• How can I save money on product purchases?
• Which photography books should I read? 
• What video training is best?
• Adobe Lightroom (All photographers should own this)
• What Photoshop books should I read? 
• What Photoshop/Lightroom Plug-ins should I buy? 
• Which tripod should I buy? (DO NOT go cheap here)
• Which camera bag should I buy?
• Where should I put my photos online? 
• Should I insure my camera gear? 
• What HDR Software should I get?
• How much is my photo or video worth?
• What monitor should I buy? (UHD/4K recommendation)
• Home Studio on a Budget
• Perfectly Clear 2 – One click photo editing for busy people

But my friend says I should get something different than what you recommend…

Everybody is an expert in Photography just like with computers, but as with computers when you dig deep you usually find that many so-called experts speak more from hearsay than hands on experience. However, to question is natural so if you want more opinions besides my own might I suggest:

1. The Digital Picture – This is where the best reviews of Canon products are on the web.
2. SLRGear.com – This is THE place to do your research on lenses. The blur index removes personal bias and just shows you the facts about a lens. One caveat though – lenses can vary from one production run to another, so beware bad copies. Generally better brands like Canon, Nikon, and Zeiss  offer more consistency from run to run.
3. DPReview.com – Nobody has better and more in-depth data on the web. I may not always agree with their conclusions, but they’ve got great data that you can take advantage of when comparison shopping.
4. Nikonians.org – great place to start for Nikon info
5. FujiRumors.com – This is where to go to get the good stuff on Fujifilm cameras
6. SonyAlphaRumors.com - This is where to go to get the good stuff on Sony cameras

Please help support this blog by coming back here and using my links to external sites when purchasing as it helps to support bringing more content to you like this article. It doesn’t cost you a penny more, but it really helps me out!

Where to buy? Local versus Online

I buy all of my gear from B&H. B&H, Amazon and Adorama are all the most respected online retailers in the photography industry. Buying online can also save sales taxes and/or offer great financing deals so it’s a win, win for me. Returns are also never a hassle (and don’t have restock charges like most local retailers).

Here’s a tip though – if someone is selling something for cheaper than B&H or Adorama, then odds are something isn’t legit. If it is, then contact me and I’ll see if I can get one of my partners to price match reasonable factory authorized deals.

Shopping local is typically higher and you have to pay sales taxes which can be hundreds of dollars. However, if you have leveraged your local store for questions and support it makes sense to reward them with a sale as they can’t exist without your support.

Suspicious? Compare and see for yourself!

ResellerRatings.com can be helpful in identifying bad online resellers. Remember, if you purchase from a non-factory authorized reseller then your warranty is null and void.

Whatever you do, only shop from authorized resellers if you care about your warranty. While anybody can sell you a camera, when you make a warranty claim your purchase receipt from an authorized reseller will be required before the warranty claim will be processed. If the seller wasn’t authorized then you’ll be picking up the cost of the repair yourself and in extreme cases where your product can’t be validated as legitimate (i.e., 3rd party knockoffs/clones) your product could be returned unrepaired.

What about Gray Market Products?

These are cheaper because they are from out of the country and don’t come with a warranty. It’s not typically worth the few dollars you save, so I personally avoid these items.

Disclosure

If you make purchases using links found in this article, I may make a commission. It doesn’t cost you a penny more when you use my links so you can decide if the reseller or ronmartblog.com gets credit for your decision to purchase.

Photographers Excuses: What’s the best story you’ve told your spouse to buy new gear?

Kids – the perfect excuse to keep your gear current, right?

Let’s face it, photography is a very expensive “hobby” that many of us spend waaaay more money than we should. As a result, it can be easy become a strain on the family income and sometimes relationships. However our spouses love us (hopefully) and many are willing to listen to “reason”, so I thought it would be fun to share some of the best excuses I’ve heard.

The Best Excuses List

What follows is a list that may grow over time after readers like you share your comments (see end of article). Sometimes excuses have follow on sub excuses, so those appear as sub items.

1. I need a 1D X / D4s so I can take pictures of the baby – you know pros says kids are harder to shoot than pro sports, so see I’ve gotta replace my point and shoot with one of those or we’ll keep getting blurry shots!

2. I’ve gotta get the 70-200 f/2.8 so I don’t get so close to the baby that s/he notices.
   • No, we can’t get the f/4 because then you’d see all the mess in the background and you’d rather it just be blurry in the background right?
   • You wouldn’t want your mom seeing how messy our house is would you?

3. Yeah, those ugly on-camera flash shots are terrible but if I had a 600EX-RT / SB-910 then  I could bounce the light so you won’t even be able to tell that I used a flash!

4. Well you don’t want to have to carry all of this stuff in your purse, right? Well that’s why I need the latest ThinkTankPhoto bag!

5. I don't use excuses, I just buy. My wife has yet to realize that I upgraded my D70 to a D300 and that it's become a D800. Same thing for the lenses. And I'm not hiding anything. It's all in plain sight.
   • Sorry if this is not an excuse but this is my reality

6. We are having our first baby, so my excuse to upgrade was “These pictures will last a lifetime. Don’t you want the best pictures possible to remember this special time?”

7. My excuse to buy some lighting equipment: “We won’t have to go to a studio to get our Christmas card picture!” It’s best if you don’t do the math here!

8. My current camera is 4 years old and was just a “starter camera” to try DSLR.
   • Now that I have a high quality full frame body, I need glass that can keep up with the new sensor.
   • Now that I have high quality glass and body, my tripod can’t hold the weight effectively.

9. Honey, I could invest my bonus our future, but what is a future without a hobby and creative outlet?

10. But everyone else has one!

11. I’m being a patriotic citizen and stimulating the economy while supporting local businesses.

12. My hobby keeps me sane. What is the value of that?
    • Keeps me out of the local Bars ;-)

13. My hobby keeps me sane. What is the value of that?
    • Keeps me out of the local Bars ;-)

14. For most of my equipment I do not need to justify because it is paid for by print sales and photography jobs.  There have been a few things where I needed to resort to begging. The best excuse, however, came from my wife's broker.
    • My wife: My husband wants to buy a lens.
    • Broker: So buy him the lens.
    • My wife: You don't understand, the lens costs over ten thousand dollars!
    • Broker: Well...It's cheaper than a divorce...

15. It’s a tax deduction for the business! If we don’t spend it on gear then we will just have to give it to the government anyway!
    
16. IF I sell my current <insert gear item here> I can use the proceeds to buy <insert the latest new hotness here>. However, many spouses report that the new gear is ordered and the promise to sell the old gear isn’t always honored. :)

Conclusion

We love our spouses and this was all in good fun, but it’s probably not a good idea to let them read this – ha, ha! Thanks to one of my former workshop students, Mike Wiebe, for recommending this article idea!  

Comments FYI

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Other articles you may enjoy

If you enjoyed this article, you may also enjoy these:

• Ron’s Recommendations 
• List of Current Reviews
• Discount Coupon Codes 
• Printing Series
• Tripod Recommendations 

Rent before you buy!

• BorrowLenses Deals of the Week
• LensRentals.com Discount

Disclosure

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Which DSLR should I buy? [OLD VERSION]

 

UPDATED: THIS ARTICLE HAS MOVED – visit http://www.ronmartblog.com/2012/09/what-camera-should-i-buy-2012-edition.html to see the current version.

 

 

This is the old article which is now out of date. Please stop reading now.

- For Part II of this article see DSLR Photography on a Budget

I belong to a huge photography group of over 2300 members worldwide, and hardly a day goes by where someone doesn't say:

I'm currently shooting with a point and shoot and have decided to step up to a DSLR camera. What camera should I buy?

From there someone in the group usually asks what do you plan to do with the camera and what is your budget. The usual answer goes something like this:

I want to spent about $1000 (maybe as much as $2000 if necessary) and I want to do portraits, sports, landscapes, travel, indoor shots and macros.

Now the funny thing about this response is that pretty much encompasses the entire world of digital photography and you aren't going to be able to do all of that for $1000 (or $2000 for that matter). Usually after probing these people you find out that they have (or will soon have) a new baby and they've managed to convince their spouse that they need a DSLR to take good pictures of the baby (good argument - Canon and Nikon make millions thanks to this excuse).

Anyway, the best place to start is to realize that the DSLR world is different from the point and shoot world where one camera does everything and mediocre quality is good enough. Even though you initially will look at any DSLR picture and say OH WOW, THAT'S AWESOME. it won't take long after you get your camera before you understand the difference between a good quality photography and a poor one -- and that doesn't even account for what you think of the creativity of the shot.

You will quickly start looking at things like picture sharpness, the bokeh (the blur behind an image), chromatic aberration and the edges of an image for perspective distortion and vignetting. You don't think that now, but after you lay down for your hard earned cash for your first $1000 plus lens (and trust me my friend, you will eventually if you stay in the DSLR world), all of these things will mater to you very much. Why? -- because you'll need a reason to justify to yourself and to your significant other why you spent $3000 on the credit card to B&H last month!

Now I'll deviate from my typical response I give to photography newcomers and tell you right now that if you are going to take up DSLR photography for a living you better be prepared to spend a lot of money.

While it is true that if you are a person of infinite willpower and you isolate yourself from other photographers and the Internet that you might be happy with your original purchase, the reality is that most people find themselves spending thousands on additional gear as they get bitten by the photography bug.

If you really and truly only have $1000 to spend then now would be a wise time to reconsider your decision while your credit cards are still being paid on time and your loved ones still know what your face looks like without a camera in front of it. If this is you, then consider an outstanding point and shoot like the Canon G12 or s95, which will give you near DSLR quality without the temptation to spend thousands. For the rest of you gear heads, read on and enjoy…

Yeah, yeah, yeah - So which is it, Nikon or Canon?

As of this writing, I’m declaring Canon back in the game and no longer recommending Nikon exclusively. In my opinion, Nikon and Canon are now even with Canon at the lead at the low end. The high ISO performance war has been good as it has forced Canon to improve, but Nikon still has a slight edge. Its highest end camera, the D3s (which sells for $5200 at the time of this writing). This means if you want to take a picture without a flash when there is very little ambient light (i.e., indoors), you'll find that the pictures taken from either body won’t be as noisy those from cameras in the past from ISO 800 to 6400. For the high ISO noise war, I am ranking the major winners right now as follows: (these are not my only recommendations)

1. Nikon D3s (B&H)
2. Canon 1D Mark IV (B&H) – 1D Mark IV Shoppers Guide
3. Canon 5D Mark II (B&H) – 5D Mark II Review
4. Nikon D700 (B&H)
5. Nikon D7000 (B&H) – See my hands on review 

If you don't currently have any investment in lenses (or a good friend or family member who will let you borrow their lenses), then you should consider the body that suits both your needs and budget as your first DSLR camera. Nikon is a more expensive platform, but expensive doesn’t mean better – it just means they feel the market can handle a price increase at this time (and sadly Canon is following them).

Naturally, any good buyer should do their own research and try each product for themselves, but beware that the opinions of Nikon versus Canon are stronger than peoples views on abortion, politics, and religion. The fact that I use Canon gear yet I still put Nikon at the top should give you an idea that I am trying to be unbiased here, but my fellow Canon brethren may have me burned at the stake for uttering such blasphemy.

The reality is that both Canon and Nikon are VERY good and you'll be happy with either platform, but I'm going to make a statement that will inflame the rest of the photography world when I say that I strongly you recommend you choose Nikon or Canon over other brands like Olympus, Sony, Pentax, etc... I say this because you'll find most of the photography books, products, etc... revolve around these two brands, so your buyers remorse is sure to be strong.

What about Micro Four-Thirds Cameras?

Camera’s like the Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF1 and other Mirrorless System Cameras have become the rage lately for their compact size and image quality that is far superior to a Point & Shoot camera, but personally I’m not interested in this platform.

It’s a great technology, but I don’t see the value in paying about the same price as you would pay for a fantastic camera like the Canon Rebel T2i yet be limited in your lens and external flash choices. I think this platform has great potential, but at this point I think it is a niche market designed for those who already have a DSLR and who are wanting a smaller trendy product.

I think my opinion of this technology will likely change as Canon and Nikon get on board so that their wide array of supporting products can be used with these technological wonders.

Okay, okay, so what camera should I get?

I’ve decided that since you need to focus on what platform you want to invest in, then from there you will likely want some guidance on the right gear for that platform. As a result I’ve included both Nikon and Canon sections and leave it up to the user as to which platform they wish to invest in.

Nikon

If you chose to go with Nikon I recommend that you consider the D7000 (see my hands on review) depending on your budget (and if you have a big budget then get the D3s or D3/D700). If that is still too much to spend then as a last resort then consider the D90.

I am no longer recommending the D5000 or D3100 because they only have Auto Focus when paired with AF-S or AF-I lenses due to its lack of a built-in focus drive motor. I think it is stupid for Nikon to be doing this at this point, especially with a cameras like the D3100 and D5000 which have so much promise. I know that to some extent that this isn’t a show stopper for some, but with all of the great cameras in Nikon’s lineup I just don’t see the point in investing in these.

I should also add that I DO NOT recommend previous generation Nikons (including the D40) as all newer bodies offer an advantage in high ISO noise reduction and image quality. If you want a good deal used, consider the D300 as it has the an outstanding performance to value ratio. If your wallet has a little extra jingling in it, then go for the D700 as it is as powerful as the mighty D3 at a much reduced price.

If I were buying a new body today from scratch, I'd probably choose the D700 as my first choice. If I had some extra change I'd do the D3s, but if things were tight I'd go with the D7000 (B&H). Nikon is doing everything right now, and has set the bar for the ISO performance war, so I expect good things out of them moving forward.

For more info visit DPReview.com and look for the “In-depth review” links (currently in green)

Canon

If you chose to go with Canon, then I'd consider going with the excellent Rebel T2i for the entry level. It’s a really nice little camera that is fun to use, and better than the Nikon D90 by quite a bit in my opinion. The next notch up from that is the 60D which I’m sad to say has taken a dip in quality from previous xxD series making it little more than a T2i with more features. Personally, I recommend that you consider the T2i or if you need more features then jump up to the most fun to use DSLR on the market today, the Canon 7D. If you want outstanding image quality and a full frame body at the expense of an outdated auto focus system (where the 7D rules), the Canon 5D Mark II is an outstanding choice. I recommend the 5D Mark II over the 1Ds Mark III unless you need the weatherproofing features it offers. If you have deep pockets, or a sports shooter (and babies count as sports) then the expensive, but fantastic 1D Mark IV is an easy choice. I own the 1D Mark IV and LOVE IT!

I do not recommend you consider older bodies unless you are on a super tight budget, in which case I recommend the 40D over the 50D. I do not advise any that you purchase any Rebel bodies below the current T1i at this point.

For more info visit DPReview.com and look for the “In-depth review” links (currently in green). I also have the following reviews:

• Canon 5D Mark II
• Canon 1D Mark IV New Users / Shoppers Guide

What lens should I get? (Updated)

Since I first wrote this article I've introduced a more detailed article at http://ronmart.blogspot.com/2008/03/which-lens-should-i-buy.html to discuss the complex task of choosing the right lens. The important thing here is to buy the best lens you can afford, even if it means you have to sacrifice the quality of the body you purchase. A body is only as good as the lens it is attached to (just like the speakers on a stereo), so a $2000 camera paired with a $200 lens makes zero sense. You are also in much better shape with one great lens like 50mm than you are with some one-size fits all lens that tries to do 28mm-300mm as the later lenses are trying to defy the laws of physics and will force to live at higher ISO’s most of the time which will result in a very unsatisfying experience!

If you need more info about lens or camera basics then try reading this article http://photonotes.org/articles/beginner-faq/ (even if you are aren't a Canon photographer, most concepts are true of all camera makes).

But wait Ron, that lens is costing me my whole budget!

EXACTLY! Welcome to photography, and this is why you shouldn't even be thinking about portrait, macro photography, sports zoom, wide landscape lenses, and such right now. I said this hobby was expensive, and I really wasn't kidding! My budget when I started in Digital SLR Photography in March of 2007 was $2000 like everybody else, and here years later I've purchased enough gear to buy small car and I still haven't got everything that I wanted. This hobby is an impulse buyer's nightmare, so stay away if you don't have major self control!

So now that you know what a good lens cost, you should re-evaluate your camera body and just choose the an inexpensive new generation body (i.e., Nikon D90 or Canon T2i). If you must, consider a previous generation body while you can still get them new and on-sale or even a slightly used body (there are plenty of those from people who either realize photography is too expensive and sell their gear or who decide to upgrade their body once they've got their first $5000 in lenses).

Won't an entry level DSLR give me crappy pictures?

For most of 2007 I shot with a Canon Rebel XTi and I got great shots like this and was published in magazines. The reason why is because I was using a really good pro sports zoom lens (which has now been replaced by this). In fact, most of my shots on my personal website before 2008 were taken with my XTi and really good lenses. As I mentioned earlier, it isn't about the body - it is the lens that will determine the quality of your shots more than anything else.

If it's all about the lens why should I consider the newer camera bodies?

The answer is simple - the newer bodies do everything the older bodies do, but much better. This is especially true when using ISO 800 or greater (in fact, new bodies can usually do up to ISO 6400 very well and some are even usable at 12,800). In addition, today's DSLR's are little computers, so the performance of the newer cameras will result in more successful photo shoots thanks to improvements in auto focus, noise reduction and more.

But my friend says I should get X, Y & Z

Just like with computers, in the photography world nearly everybody (myself included) thinks they are experts when 99% of them really don't know jack. Be an intelligent shopper and use this article as a starting point, but don't take my word for it. Go to a local camera shop and play with the gear (BUT DON'T BUY), and do a lot of research on the web before you decide on what to get.

You'll find the following sites helpful in your quest to determine what you should get:

• Links to reviews of Canon lenses and cameras - http://www.canon-reviews.com/ (START HERE for Canon)
• Nikon User Community -http://www.nikonians.org/
• THE BEST camera reviews - http://www.dpreview.com/
• Real photographs by real people using each cameras your researching - http://www.flickr.com/cameras/ and http://www.pixel-peeper.com/
• Real user reviews for each product at B&H
• A Nikon know-it-all who also owns some Canon gear - Ken Rockwell
• Real user reviews for each product at B&H (take with a grain of salt as there’s sometimes bogus info by those with an axe to grind)

Where do I buy?

I recommend buying online over shopping local. You save taxes, have a better return policy (no restocking fees) and in some cases you’ll save taxes. If you want to save money, and get your gear from the most respected name in photography in the United States, then I HIGHLY recommend B&H (article about B&H). I also love Amazon.comand Adorama. I've bought 95% of my gear from B&H haven't had any major problems. If you need to return something it is best to get an RMA within 14 days and the packaging must be in resalable shape, but other than that they usually get things right. Remember this when opening your packages and do like I do – take photos as you open it so you can put it back if you want to return it!

Feel free to contact me if you are struggling on the final details of your purchase, but if you do I ask that you use a link on my blog when purchasing. I earn a commission when you use my links and that is what funds this blog so that I can bring you all the great articles it provides. Sadly many people over the last year have chosen to use my information and then buy elsewhere, and that is putting the future of this blog at risk. If you can’t (for geographic reasons) or don’t want to use my links, I ask you to use the donate link (no signup required) and contribute an amount that you think is fair (commissions are generally 3% of the purchase price).  Using my links are the best way though because your price is the same, and I get the commission so we both win!

Thanks for your support!

What book should I get?

I've written a very popular blog article to cover the important subject about which books to read so you can make the most of your DSLR experience.

Does this mean I don't need to read my camera manual?

NO!!!! Your camera manual, no matter how poorly written, is an excellent resource that should be read from cover to cover about once a month for the first few months you own your camera until you know your cameras main features by heart. In fact, I highly recommend starters view this tutorial. It’s old, and it is for the Canon Rebel XT, BUT it is applies to both Canon and Nikon cameras (cameras change, but these core concepts still apply). In fact, I like this tutorial so much I use it for my classes! The creator of this tutorial also has a great iPhone/iPad app.

But what about flashes, tripods, camera bags, etc...

I have a digital workflow software article which I need to update badly as it is way out of date, but at a high level it is still worth reading. I also am a huge fan of Think Tank Photo camera bags, and don’t recommend any others – here’s why. For flashes, On-Camera Flash Techniques is a THE book to start with (Canon and Nikon). Right now I only recommend the Nikon SB-900 and Canon 580EX II. Sure there are cheaper options, but these flashes produce outstanding results and work well both controlling other off-camera flashes as well as being fired off-camera through light modifiers (i.e., umbrellas). If you buy the cheaper flashes, you’ll regret it at some point (again, unless you are the type to buy and never read about Photography on the Internet again).

What’s in your bag?

While the contents of my gear collection is always changing, I try to keep things up to date in my What’s in my bag article.

Do you get paid to recommend things?

No, I make my recommendations with no influence from any third party. They are my independent opinion based on my own research. However, if you buy something using a link on this site then I may get a commission. I'd appreciate if you supported this blog by using my links, but honestly I do this because I enjoy helping people. Here’s my full disclosure document if you are concerned I’m hiding something about how this “for profit” blog works.

Where to go from here?

For more information, part II of this topic can be found at DSLR Photography on a Budget and my Best of RonMart.Blogspot.com article. You can save big bucks here too.

If you are interested in printing your own photos, then my printing series is a huge hit with a ton of information including interviews and tips from the best master printers in the country!

DSLR Photography on a Budget (a.k.a., Lessons Learned) – Updated February 10, 2009

One of the biggest complaints I get about my most popular article entitled Which DSLR should I buy? is that many people can't afford my recommendations. (NOTE: This is the "Volume II" of the Which DSLR should I buy? article, so read both if you have time or only this one if you don't.)

Believe it or not, I can understand your plight because when I finally bought my first DSLR camera on February 27, 2007 I had given myself what I thought was a huge budget of $2000. However, when the final total in my cart at B&H showed up, I was horrified to realize I had actually spent $4000.05, and that was just the beginning!!!! Continue reading to understand that when you enter the world of DSLR photography, there is much more than meets the eye when it comes to actual expenses you’ll face in this exciting activity.

NOTE: If you are short on time, jump here to get to the recommendations and they are a fraction of what I spent!

Beware the lure of the $675 camera

Little did I know when I started in this expensive endeavor that it is much like buying an ink jet printer - only exponentially worse. You know, you get a printer for $79 and then you buy the paper and replacement ink a few weeks later and before you know it you've spent $300!

Well, in digital photography this business model has been taken to new levels, so when I set out to buy my first DSLR - a Canon Rebel XTi - its $672.95 price tag (at the time) was just the beginning. I was new, so I bought the "starter" camera but before I knew it my cart was filled with $3327.10 of other items besides my camera and this "starter camera" would continue to drain my wallet like a Vegas casino for the next 22 months.

How could this happen? I'm not going to do that!!! (a.k.a, see how a $489 camera equals $2000)

Ah, yes, this is what we all say before we get the photography bug but without awareness and incredible self control, you too can fall victim of its tempting allure. To explain, I'll start by demonstrating how I got from $672 to $4000 in a pattern that is all too common.

When I set out to buy my camera and first lens I asked my good friend Leszek (my trusted Photography expert at the time) about which camera I should get. He quickly (and accurately) suggested that I invest my money in good lenses and spend the remainder on a less expensive body. He recommended this because bodies change frequently, but lenses last for decades.

This made good sense to me, so he suggested that I buy a Canon Rebel XT as it had been replaced by the XTi, and could be purchased for roughly $400 at the time. He also suggested I get the body only and use the remainder of my $2000 budget on getting a good general purpose lens and a good telephoto lens, so he suggested the following as a way to spend my first $2000 in Photography (shown with 2/07 prices - NOT RECOMMENDED for 2010):

• Canon Rebel XT ($489.95)
• Canon Zoom Super Wide Angle EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM Lens  ($514.95)
• Canon Zoom Telephoto EF 70-200mm f/4.0L USM Lens ($559.95)
• Canon EW-73B Lens Hood for 17-85mm ($29.95)
• Canon 430EX Speedlite E-TTL II Shoe-Mount Flash ($239.95)
• Canon BG-E3 Vertical Grip/Battery Holder for EOS Digital Rebel XT, XTI ($139.95) - More comfortable to hold for portraits and longer battery life
• Extra battery for the grip (requires 2)

This nicely designed package was fairly modest and came in at $2046.10 before shipping, so it fell pretty close to my budget. Take note that the camera itself was only $489.95, but with some basic accessories and two modest lenses that my whole $2000 budget was spent!

The Devil is in the Details

Leszek is a smart guy who knows his camera and electronic gear very well, so I asked him tons of questions and did more and more research. The more I researched, the more questions I had. I quickly discovered that everyone who owns a DSLR (like those who own computers) believes they are an expert and are happy to share their strong opinions with you based on they have learned. As a result, I started forming some opinions based on a combination of others opinions as well as my own research on the web. My questions were typical of what you've probably asked yourself:

• Nikon or Canon?
• Canon EF-S/ Nikon DX lenses versus Canon EF lenses / Nikon FX lenses?
• Is Canon IS / Nikon VR worth an extra $500 on a lens?
• Pro versus Consumer level lenses?
• Do I need a hood?
• Why isn't the built-in flash good enough?
• What about lens filters?
• How do I learn more about all of the lenses Canon offers?
• Why is this stuff so expensive?
• What do I keep all of this stuff in? (i.e., case –vs- backpack)
• What about a tripod?

“I just want a starter kit, but I don't want to waste money on something I'll want to upgrade 3 months later”

I subscribe to the philosophy that you get what you pay for, so don't buy something that is crap to save money because you'll end up spending more money in the long run. I also have a critical eye, so I struggle to settle for mediocrity, so after reading reviews I came to the following conclusions to my questions listed above (which were my opinion at THAT POINT IN TIME):

• Canon was the technology leader of the time and most pros used Canon, so my desire to only buy the best meant Canon was my only choice (this was before the release of the Nikon D300/D3)
• The XT was a bad choice because the new enhancements in the XTi were worth a couple extra hundred dollars (it's just a couple hundred so why not? :-))
• EF-S lenses wouldn't work with a higher end body like a 5D (which my friend Leszek owned and I lusted after) so why invest in something I will have to replace when I upgrade my camera?
• Image Stabilization (IS/VR) means fewer blurry pictures (something I hated about my Sony DSC-H1) so I've gotta have IS
• Buy a pro lens now and I'll never have to replace it, so it is a safe long-term investment
• Hood's prevent flare and protect the lens, so why not get it - and pro lenses come with hood's so that's proof positive a hood is a must
• Unanimous research suggested that the built-in flash was garbage, and high end bodies didn't even have a built-in flash so an external flash was a must
• It was clear that you can't live without a circular polarizer filter and UV filters offered lens protection, so I needed them. I also realized that you don't put cheap filters on expensive lenses, so if you get good lenses then you need top quality filters.
• Canon "EF LENS WORK" III guide book was the definitive resource on all of Canon's lens offerings so I could learn more and plan my strategy for lenses in the future ($$$ - proof positive the bug had bitten)
• Quality costs, so you get what you pay for - spend more now so you don't have to rebuy in the future
• Gosh, this is getting too expensive so let's just get an inexpensive backpack from a name I trust - Canon
• Man, the expenses are killing me and tripods are expensive and bulky - let's just get a monopod which is great for sports too!

With all these things in mind, my new "starter kit" ended up looking like this (February 2007 prices) along with some thoughts:

• Canon Rebel XTi w/ BG-E3 BATTERY GRIP ($672.95 + $139.95)
• EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM ($1059.95) - 5D "kit lens" and highly respected
• EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM ($1397) - Leszek's super tele and boy was it cool
• Hoya 77mm SUPER-HMC - CIRC POL (THIN) ($172.50) OUCH! Leszek's recommendation
• Hoya 77mm MC - UV PRO 1 DIGITAL FILTER ($86.95) Leszek's recommendation
• Canon "EF LENS WORK" III guide book ($17.95) Leszek's loaned me his so I had to have one too
• Canon DELUXE BACK PACK BAG 200 EG ($49.95) - Can't go wrong with Canon right, and WHAT A DEAL?!
• Canon 430EX Speedlite E-TTL II Shoe-Mount Flash ($239.95) - Who needs that expensive 580 EX II right?
• Extra battery for the grip ($49.95)
• Canon Lens Cleaning Kit ($5.95) Again, a trusted brand
• Canon Monopod ($29.95) Boy, Canon has some deals!

There ya have it, $4000.05 after the $77.05 in shipping from B&H Photo - unanimously listed as the most trusted place to buy your photography gear. A entry level camera, a couple good lenses that I'll never need to replace, some filters to match the quality of the lenses (which fortunately fit on both lenses), and some bargain accessories from Canon that were MUCH cheaper than what everyone else was telling me I should get for hundreds more.

Ugh, I've spent twice my budget - and that was just the beginning

While I've been very fortunate financially speaking for about 10 years of my life (1997 – 2007), I grew up poor and I've worked since I was 10 years old (making $2.50/hr then). In fact, I have records that prove I was fully vested in Social Security at age 22, so growing up poor made me very frugal when it comes to spending. Despite that I was disgusted with myself for spending twice my budget, but when I looked at all of the cool gear that was on the way I felt confident that it was an investment that would pay off in the long run. I'm pleased to say that is true, but I'm sad to say that my first $4000 was only the beginning. I was a long way from recovering the cost of my gear in my semi-professional endeavors, so don't go into this field expecting to make a profit. A vast majority of DSLR owners will never recover the cost of their gear from photography related activities, no matter how talented they are.

As I got my gear and learned how to use it, I quickly discovered that there were many things that I didn't have that I "needed". There were things I bought that saved me money in the short run (i.e., backpack, monopod, flash, and cleaning kit) that ended up costing me much more in the long run. In fact, that damn backpack nearly ended up costing me thousands of dollars!

Over the month of March of 2007 I'd end up with 5 more orders from B&H for over $2300 and I'd returned my 100-400 lens for a EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM that everyone said was better. Of course, I ended up buying that 100-400 again down the road and still own it to this day!

Without knowledge comes indecision and buyers remorse, and that always spells more $$$!!!!! Read-on to minimize your losses!

Okay Ron, so you're a dip shit - so how are you going to help me from making the same mistakes?

So three years, and well over $20,000 later I've had my share of lessons learned. There are definitely places where you can try to save money, but  you'll cost yourself a fortunate in the long run (i.e., backpacks and tripods). There's also other places where you can accept the reality that you can't buy top of the line now and make some cost savings.

With all of this information in mind, I'll make some recommendations for both the Canon and Nikon buyer as to what I think a starter kit should look like. I'll start with how to spend the first $1500 (roughly) on gear and the accessories section will guide you as to where to spend your next $500 and up. Other articles like Which lens should I buy? will help you with where to put the rest of your money.

As I explained earlier, everyone in Photography claims to be an expert, myself included, so the ultimate decision is yours based on your own research. However, this is what I would do if I was starting over today.

Options

I'll present several options including going with older camera bodies as well as the latest camera bodies. Of course, there's also the option of buying used gear, but that is hard to quantify in a blog so I'll leave that as an exercise for you. I'm wary of buying used gear myself, so if you go that route then be sure to buy from a trusted source (like Adorama’s used department) and ideally get gear that is still under warranty. Remember, buyer beware.

You'll also notice that I'm going to recommend some kits, even though I don't have those lenses listed in my Which lens should I buy? article. This is because the Which lens should I buy? article is targeted at providing advice on what I believe to be are excellent lenses for the long term, so price isn't a consideration. With only one exception that I know of (the 5Ds' 24-105mm lens), most kit lenses are going to be easy to grow out of, and their quality will be mediocre. Accept this reality now and you can stay within budget and buy more when you are in a better place financially later. This will give you time to learn if DSLR photography is right for you before making a huge commitment.

A word about pricing and exchange rates

The strength of the US Dollar against the Japanese Yen has not been good over the past couple of years, so it has caused Canon to raise its prices once (just recently) and Nikon multiple times. Generally when prices go up, they don’t come back down (although favorable exchange rates might result in a rebate program). This means that digtal SLR’s are getting more and more expensive as time goes on (by about 20% since my first version of this article a year ago). This means the prices here may vary wildly from the underlying links at some point, so use the configurations as the guide and the price figures as estimates.

For my large following in Europe, your in even worse shape. Generally speaking, it sure seems like Canon and Nikon simply take the digits used for the US price (i.e,. 1999.95) and put a Euro or British Pound symbol in front of it which results in an astronomical price difference from the US prices. My best advice for you is to buy from the US used market. This will mean you won’t have a warranty, but for roughly 50% off, who cares!

Canon Recommendations

I'm a Canon shooter so I consider this to be good advice based on everything I've learned up until today (and I'll update this article as things change). The prices are subject to change (including seasonal rebates that come and go) and are provided ONLY as a guide. For exact prices, you must click the links.

Option 1 - Latest Entry Level Gear (About $1700)

Canon EOS Rebel T1i (500D) Digital SLR Kit w/EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens ($749.95) - Here you get a nice state of the art camera and a 29 - 88mm (effective mm is * 1.6 crop factor) with image stabilization that has done well with reviewers. (NOTE: When the T2i is available for sale, it will replace this recommendation)

Canon EW-60C Lens Hood for 18-55mm ($23.95) - Unless you run into a problem when using your built-in flash, you should ALWAYS have a hood on your lens whenever you take a shot.

Canon Zoom Telephoto EF 70-200mm f/4.0L USM Lens ($639.00) - The EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM is the #1 choice of the pros and the 70-200 f/4 IS USM is the sharpest of the 70-200's (until the new EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM II is released in March 2010), but those lenses will blow your budget so this is a good lens to start off with for that all important telephoto. You'll have a lot of fun with this lens, just realize that you'll need a fast shutter speed (1/200 sec or greater) and/or support (i.e., tripod/monopod) for the best results with this lens.

Canon 430EX II Speedlite E-TTL II Shoe-Mount Flash ($280.00), but if you can possibly afford to get the Canon 580EX II Speedlite TTL ($445) then I'd HIGHLY recommend it instead. Now conventional wisdom would argue that the 430EX II is the better choice because it is cheaper and it provides sufficient light for the average indoor use. However, the 430 is so easy to outgrow once you start doing off-camera flash work (which you will likely do if you get a passion for photography) that it is better to pay the extra money now for the long term savings.

Option 2 - The Rebel Body with Better Flash but no big telephoto (About $1200)

Canon EOS Rebel T1i (500D) Digital SLR Kit w/EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens ($749.95) – See above. When the T2i is available for sale, the T1i will still be recommended here but its price should be lower by then making this a more affordable option.

Canon EW-60C Lens Hood for 18-55mm ($23.95) – See above.

Canon 580EX II Speedlite TTL ($445) - Flash photography is hard enough, but this flash evens the playing field just a little bit more by making the damn thing a little bit easier to use. When paired with a newer body you can control it via the camera which makes operation a snap. This is a flash you won't need to replace and it will serve you well.

Option 3 – Rock Bottom ($760)

This option is only for those who can’t possibly afford anything more and are willing to make a major sacrifice in performance (highly ISO noise primarily).

Canon EOS Rebel XS with 18-55mm Lens ($499.95) - Based on the outdated XTi, but with some minor improvements, this is a fun starter camera. Upgrading to the XSi would cost a bit more, but its a nice upgrade from this camera. If you can swing it, do the T1i as its high ISO noise performance is exceptionally better and you’ll understand how important that is within the first month or two of camera ownership.

Canon EW-60C Lens Hood for 18-55mm ($23.95) - See above.

Canon 430EX II Speedlite E-TTL II Shoe-Mount Flash ($280.00) - See above.

Don't forget about the accessories

Before you decide which option is for you, think about what accessories you are going to want to invest in to complete your kit. Little things like extra batteries, memory cards, etc... add up (usually AT LEAST $500) and are required so plan accordingly.

Nikon Recommendations

Nikon gear is more expensive than Canon, especially when it comes to lenses. The budget conscious types might find Canon a better value in the long run as Nikon has also had more price increases over the last 18 months than Canon (as of the time of this writing).

DISCLAIMER: I'm not a Nikon shooter, so my opinions are only based on research I've done when I've considered switching to the Nikon camp. It is also based on observations of other Nikon users I known and their personal opinions. I consider it to be less accurate than the Canon advice, but better than you'll get from most people who have been shooting with Nikon for less than a year. I'll probably outrage plenty of Nikon bargain hunters with my suggestions, so I'll update this list as I find compelling arguments to do so.

Option 1 - Latest Gear ($1749.90)

Nikon D90 SLR Digital Camera Kit with 18-200mm VR II Lens ($1749.90) - This is a tough because with just a body and lens you blow most of your pre-accessory budget, but in this case you are investing in a great state of the art camera which is arguably as good as (and some say better than) its D300 sibling. The 18-200mm kit lens has great range (27-300mm effective range when considering the 1.5x crop factor) and it includes 4-stop Vibration Reduction. It is well reviewed as an excellent starter lens. Sure, you'll eventually ditch this lens for better lenses, but it is a great place to start and the zoom range is hard to pass up.

Option 2 - Latest Body but less lens range for a great flash ($1660.90)

Nikon D90 SLR Digital Camera Kit with Nikon 18-105mm VR Lens ($1199.95) - Same great body as above, but with a little less range on the lens. You still have  great range for typical photography, so this is still an excellent starter lens. You'll eventually lust after better lenses and I think this lens will probably hold its value when purchased with the kit (since you get $100 off the MSRP of the lens) so you may be able to sell it or trade up from here.

Nikon SB-900 AF Speedlight i-TTL Shoe Mount Flash ($464.95) - Some will scoff at this recommendation and say save the money to get the cheaper SB-600. Photography is all about light and a state of the art flash like this will give you better results. Let's face it, flashes are already hard enough to use so take advantage of all of the technology you can get to make the process as easy as possible. Scott Kelby and Joe McNally (of National Geographic fame) swear by the SB-900 as being a great advance over the legendary SB-800. If you want to save even more, try to get your hands on a used SB-800 as it has a solid reputation.

Option 3 – Rock Bottom ($736.85)

Nikon D60 SLR Digital Camera Kit with 18-55mm VR Lens ($499.95) - This is comparable to option 3 from Canon with the biggest deficiency being the fact that the D60 only has Auto Focus when paired with AF-S or AF-I lenses due to its lack of a built-in focus drive motor. It is also inferior to the Nikon D90 and Canon T1i on several fronts, but it offers a good value for a starter camera.

Nikon HB-45 Bayonet Lens Hood for 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 (All Versions) ($16.95) - Got a lens? - Get and always use a hood - period. The other suggestions above don’t list hoods simply because Nikon gear is so darn expensive.

Nikon SB-600 Speedlight i-TTL Shoe Mount Flash ($219.95) - While it is hard not to recommend the SB-900, this option is about spending the least amount of money so go with this flash now knowing that you'll outgrow it and either turn it into a slave flash or likely replace it all together - IF you really get into photography. If you are just a casual shooter that never upgrades then this will serve you well.

Again, don't forget about the accessories

If you skipped the Canon section above, then I'll be sure to say this again because it's very important.

Before you decide which option is for you, think about what accessories you are going to want to invest in to complete your kit. Little things like extra batteries, memory cards, etc... add up ($500 isn't unusual or extraordinary) so plan accordingly.

Accessories You Should Own

Whether you shoot with Canon or Nikon, there's some gear that you'll need that is common for both platforms. It's expensive, and its a lot, but its is also the place where you can waste the most money by purchasing stuff you don't need or buying the same thing over and over again (i.e., ESPECIALLY backpacks and Tripods).

Compact Flash or SD Card ($60)

That new camera of yours is useless without storage for the photos. With megapixel counts being what they are these days, you are going to want at least a 4GB but realistically an 8GB Compact Flash (most cameras) or SD card (some Canon's). I've not found any real world difference between the two formats other than physical size to suggest that one is better than the other, but it seems that CF cards popularity results in a better price when shopping online.

Rob Galbraith has a good database of CF/SD card performance, but I've found that more times than not the camera itself is the bottleneck - not the card's read/write speed - at least until the latest generation of cameras with UDMA support came out. Even still, I have a hard time spending or budgeting more than $100 for a memory card, so I say get the best you can afford for the $75 - $100 range.

Currently, my personal favorites are:

• SanDisk 8GB Extreme III - 30MB/sec Edition Secure Digital (SDHC) Card (for Cameras that support SD - RARE) ($74.95 – rebates common)
• SanDisk 8 GB Extreme Professional Grade Compact Flash Memory Card - Up to 60MB/S Read/Write, UDMA Enabled ($79.95 - rebate common)

UDMA enabled cards offer greater performance and you’ll want them in speeds of 30mb/sec or faster. Check your camera though, because if it doesn’t support UDMA then don't waste your money as you’ll see zero benefit.

Most of my cards are Transcend cards which have worked without failure, and I've got a Kingston that has been reliable too, but many people swear by SanDisk. My latest SanDisk 30mb/sec UDMA card is fantastic so I make my recommendations for that brand without hesitation. Personally, I’ve also never had a card fail on me (knocking on wood), and products like PhotoRescue can be used to test the cards as well as recover your images should you accidentally format (not low-level format) the card before removing your pictures (and video). 

Camera Bags(~$150)

When all is said and done, you'll likely $2000 or more on your new DSLR kit. Don't store your gear in a crappy bag only to have it damaged. Furthermore, don't trust that just because Canon makes bags that they are good for your camera - they aren't. Don't believe me, then read my story and learn why camera bags are so important.

When I first got into DSLR photography I read a statistic that the average photographer has at least 4 bags, 3 of which are rarely (if ever) used. I can't remember the source anymore, but I scoffed at it when I first read it. Years later I find myself with 6 bags and I know countless others who have at least 3 or 4 bags. Of course, there's a simple reason for this though - finding a great bag is difficult and no one bag will likely meet all of your needs as your collection of gear grows.

With that said, I think I've found the closest thing to perfection in bags you can get with Think Tank Photo bags because they are designed by pro photographers and built for all photographers. They are slightly more expensive than other popular brands that allege quality such as LowePro and Taramac, but personally I don't believe those brands are even close to being in the same league as Think Tank Photo. What's more, these bags don't look like camera bags so you aren't walking around with a steal-me sign on your backpack. However, I recognize this paragraph will start holy wars amongst people loyal to other backpack brands, so be sure to do your own research and decide what is best for you.

My recommendation is to start with the Urban Disguise Series or Streetwalker Series as your all-in-one day bag. You may grow into something larger for your travel or big shoot bag, but these are nice bags to start with and for some they will be all you ever need. They are also great for hiking. I DO NOT recommend you just get “a case”. That works for your point and shoot, but the reality is you’ll be carrying a lot more than your camera with you so a simple case just doesn’t cut it.

Books ($50)

To get the most of your camera, you should invest a little money in some good books (or at least borrow them from the library). My minimal recommendations can be found in my article entitled Which Books Should I Read?, which links to my Photoshop book recommendations in the What Photoshop Books Should I Read? article. I also do private training and classes (rarely) for a fee.

Tripod

Books could be written about this subject, but the best article I've seen thus far is here (READ THIS). For starters, I recommend that you DO NOT attempt to buy a tripod until you've been shooting with digital photography for at least 3 - 6 months. Why? Because you are 99.9% guaranteed to make a poor decision on what can be one of the most important pieces of equipment you use to make a great picture. In addition, the reality is that quality costs so you can easily spend another $1000 on a quality setup (INSANE! – I know), and cheapo setups are more likely to either not perform very well (generally people buy heads that aren't strong enough to support the weight of their body and heaviest lens) or they will be top-heavy and present a hazard when used in the wind or on uneven terrain. Once you understand how you shoot and what you are shooting you'll be better prepared to make a more intelligent decision (i.e., you'll probably get the head or the legs right - but still not both :-).

Don't get me wrong, tripods and heads are super important but you're better off saving your money for now. If you must do it though, then start here for your best value / performance combination and recognize that video heads aren't the best choice for photography and don't forget that you need something that can support your camera (with batteries - x2 if using a grip) and your biggest lens - with a little fudge factor (i.e., if your total is 6 pounds, get a setup that can support 8 pounds - both the legs AND the head!).

Software & Services ($300 - $340/450)

So you've taken your pictures - now what? You will want to download them onto your camera, make quick edits to make them look much nicer, and then upload them to the Internet for either printing and/or sharing with friends. This process is called a Digital Workflow, and the best solution for this is to use Adobe Lightroom. I also prefer to use Smugmug as my online photo storage solution and it also serves as an outstanding place to get high quality prints at a reasonable price. With the pro account, you can even sell your prints online!

Polarizer

Like a tripod, this is something you should hold off on buying until you've had time to digest all of your initial purchases because a polarizer is a very important purchase. In addition, most people think a polarizer is a polarizer, and when you've faced initial purchase fatigue your tendency will be to cut corners and bypass the $150 polarizer for a $50 version. However, doing so would be foolish because your lens is only as good as the last piece of glass on it. 90% of what you pay for in a lens are the glass elements in it, so it makes no sense to put a piece of garbage on the end of expensive glass.

I've read that when budgeting for a polarizer, you should consider a budget of rough 10% of the cost of your lens for a quality polarizer. My polarizer cost $172 ($187.35 today) and I was screwing it on to a $1799 lens, so that was pretty close to that 10% rule of thumb. In fact, if I had to do it over again, I'd probably get a B+W Kaeseman Circular Polarizer Multi-Resistant Coating (MRC) Slim Glass Filter (be sure to get the right size) which until recently cost $245!!!! At this point, you've probably got no clue why you'd buy a $245 filter when Tiffen makes one for only $68.95, so until you TRULY understand the difference you are better off saving your money. That Tiffen might be fine for a $500 lens, but if you are using quality glass then you should understand what those more expensive filters give you for the extra cost and make an informed decision.

Other Useful Accessories

Lens Cleaning Cloth ($10) - For the love of God, please don't clean your lens with your shirt or kitchen towel! Paper towels and napkins suck too because they can can be abrasive enough to leave micro scratches. Pony up the $10 and get yourself a proper lens cleaning cloth and ONLY use it for cleaning glass surfaces (i.e., your lens, LCD, viewfinder, etc...).

Lens Cleaner ($13) - If a quick wipe won't do the job, then you need some lens cleaner. I love the way this unit will make a tiny directed mist so you avoid getting too much fluid on your lens and risk having it leak into your body.

Giottos ROCKET AIR BLOWER 6.6" ($14) - When changing your lens (especially outdoors), it isn't uncommon to get some dust on your sensor. If you have a self-cleaning camera then that will help, but not 100% so this is a good solution. If this doesn't work, then you'll need to clean your sensor, which a task better left to the pros if you don't follow directions very well.

Flash Diffusers/Bouncers ($17) - Never point a flash directly at your subject without some sort of diffuser or bounce. The Sto-Fen Omnibounce is a good place to start for the flash that you've purchased. A simple white one is a good place to start, but you can get away without it by building your own or using the ceiling (or other object) to bounce indirect light onto your subject.

Delta GRAY CARD 4x5" ($2) - If you shoot JPEG, instead of RAW (CR2/NEF), then it is important to get a proper white balance, so a Gray Card is a good investment. A better choice is a Photovision 6" Mini One Shot Digital Target, which are great for Photoshop curves adjustments, but the delta gray card is a good minimum starting point. Like many things in photography though, you can spend $100 on an ExpoDisc, but now isn’t the time for that.

Pantone HUEY ($65) - If your monitor isn't calibrated regularly, then what you see on your computer screen isn't likely to look like what your printed image will look like (or what your camera really captured). This will frustrate you to no end if your monitor is oversaturated and set too bright (which most monitors are from the factory because that sells monitors). While there are better solutions, and more expensive versions for dual monitor support, this one will suite most people's needs and is WAY better than nothing at all.

Pearstone LP-1 Lens Pen ($9.95) - Some people like to have these in their pocket for doing a quick cleaning of their lens (NOT SENSOR) without having to get the cleaning cloth and/or cleaner out. I love mine, but it doesn't mean you don't need a cleaning cloth and cleaner, so get those before you get this!

Extended Warranty or Insurance?

A common question I get from people is "should I buy an extended warranty on my camera"? In general, I say no because rarely are they worth the paper they are printed on, but I DO recommend getting your camera insured with State Farm. My policy cost me very little (about 1% of the cost of my gear – per year), but saved me hundreds when my Canon backpack failed and damaged my gear. Few extended warranties would have covered that - especially since it happened in China on what could be argued was a business related assignment.

How to Avoid Spending Thousands More

The sad truth is that if you want to avoid spending thousands more then you need to stay away from others who have already done so. This means avoid discussion groups or forums where people will continuously make you feel that you were an idiot for what you have purchased and how you'll get 10x better results if you just spend another $2000 on X, Y, and Z. There's ALWAYS a way to spend another $2000 in photography even if you are like me and you've already spent $20,000. I know that even if I spent $100,000 that there's still be tons of cool stuff that I'd want and it would make my pictures look so much better. It's much like playing golf where there's always a better driver and putter that is going to change your game and turn you into the next Tiger Woods - for just another $1000.

So, with this in mind after you buy your gear then get some good books to read so that you actually know how to use your gear, READ YOUR MANUAL, and go have fun using your gear. If you need more information, then choose a blog or two like this one to learn about some new things as you are ready to digest the new information.

Man I don't want to live in a bubble - Forums are great!

Okay, then just don't say I didn't warn you. The more you know the more disappointed you will become with your choices and the more you will lust after gear you don't have. No matter how hard it is to spend money without your significant other knowing and beating you to a pulp, you'll find a way. It's an addiction like gambling so when you find yourself ordering without telling your spouse or lying about how much you paid for something then recognize that you've gone overboard and get away from it. Enjoy what you have and move on, and recognize it takes lots of money and education to get those killer pictures you'll see others post online.

This is expensive, how can I pay for all of this?

I’ll tell you a little secret, even when I had the cash to buy a $2000 lens without giving it a second thought I didn’t do it. Instead, I used Bill Me Later which is available just like a credit card option from most online retailers. What this allowed me to do was get 3 to 6 months same as cash deferred payment so I could spread the cost out. This meant that instead of skipping on the Image Stabilization, which I’d regret later, I could just go ahead and get it and save money from my upcoming pay checks to pay for it. I never have and hope I never will carry a balance on a credit card, but this option is like borrowing someone elses money for free – IF you pay it on time (otherwise its like going to your local loan shark). If you pay your bills on time and know that you can save the money (or have some bonus or stock vesting) then this is a great way to get what you want now. I do almost all of my photography gear purchases this way!

Closing Thoughts

Whew, that's a big one - thanks for hanging in there and reading it all (you didn't skip - right?). With all this said, Digital SLR photography can be very rewarding (and very expensive), but few who get into it regret it. Sure, the critics of your work will be harsh (but you don't have to be), but at the end of the day you must remember that YOU are the only critic you need to please (well maybe your spouse if you are married :-). If you are happy with a shot, then enjoy it even more by sharing it online or printing it or putting it on a digital frame. You'll be amazed at how wonderful your shots will look compared to even a high end point and shoot like the Canon G11, and you'll be sure to impress your friends and family.

Feel free to contact me if you are struggling on the final details of your purchase, but if you do I ask that you use a link on my blog when purchasing. I earn a commission when you use my links and that is what funds this blog so that I can bring you all the great articles it provides. Sadly many people over the last year have chosen to use my advice only to buy elsewhere, and that is putting the future of this blog at risk. If you can’t (for geographic reasons) or don’t want to use my links, I ask you to use the donate link and contribute an amount that you think is fair (commissions are generally 3% or more of the purchase price).  Using my links are the best way though because your price is the same, and I get the commission so we both win! Thanks for your support!

Happy shopping and welcome to DSLR Photography!

Postscript on February 10, 2010

Of all the gear I originally purchased, the only items I still have to this day are the following:

• Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM
• Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM (which I returned and repurchased again several months later)
• Hoya 77mm SUPER-HMC - CIRC POL (THIN)

Cameras will come and go, but GOOD lenses will last you for many years. In addition, the good lenses that I did buy were sold for within $50 of what I paid for them thanks to the rising cost of gear (mostly due to exchange rates). That would never be true for a kit lens where hundreds of thousands of people have them that don’t want them anymore. Think about it – was a $500 lens worth $200 on the used market a better deal than a $1650 lens that I kept for 2 years and sold for $1599?