Showing posts with label dxo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dxo. Show all posts

Monday, June 15, 2026

DxO Summer Sale: Save 20% on Any DxO or Nik Product - ENDS July 10th!

Camera ReviewRonMartBlog

DxO Summer Sale: Save 20% on Any DxO or Nik Product

New DxO customers can save 20% from June 15 through July 10, 2026 with code RBLOGSummer2026.

DxO Summer Sale: Save 20% on Any DxO or Nik Product product photo

Table of Contents

  1. Before & After
  2. Kai's Football Portrait
  3. Closing thoughts
  4. Related articles

How to Use the Coupon Code

The discount process is not as obvious as it should be, so make sure you validate the code before completing your purchase.

  1. Visit the DxO online store and select your software.
  2. Enter RBLOGSummer2026 in the promo-code field.
  3. Enter your email address when requested.
  4. Click Validate.
  5. Confirm that the 20% discount appears before completing your order.
Example showing where to enter and validate a DxO coupon code
Enter the coupon code, provide your email address, and click Validate to apply the discount.

My illustrated DxO discount walkthrough provides more detail. Eligible new customers should follow those steps using RBLOGSummer2026.

Why I Still Recommend Nik

I was using Nik Software when most people hadn't heard of it. Version 1.0. That was 2008, and it has been a critical part of my photo workflow every single year since. That's not something I say lightly - I've watched plenty of plugins come and go over 18 years, and Nik is still the one I can't live without.

What does Nik do that Lightroom can't match? The one-sentence version: U Point controls let you drop a point anywhere on the image and adjust color, brightness, or contrast in just that zone - no selection, no painting a mask, and no wrestling with luminance ranges. That alone changes how fast you can work.

Honestly, the bigger draw for me is the sheer depth of creative presets. Tonal Contrast, Pro Contrast, and dozens more are genuinely useful starting points rather than party tricks. There are so many great filters, and it is easy to build powerful presets on top of them.

I can't live without Color Efex for color work. Viveza is what I reach for when I need surgical control over one specific area. Silver Efex is a must for any black-and-white image I edit - the blacks are simply delicious, and nothing else comes close for B&W.

In fact, nearly every photo in my portfolio has been edited with the Nik Collection as part of my normal photo-editing workflow. This is not software I dust off for a review - it is part of how I finish my images.

What's New in Nik Collection 9

DxO released Nik Collection 9 in April 2026 and called it its biggest update ever. Based on what I have seen, that is not hype. The new AI tools are genuinely useful, not feature-list filler added to justify a version bump.

  • AI Masking: Select a subject with a click or draw a bounding box and let the AI take it from there. Processing runs locally on your computer.
  • Depth Masks: Nik creates a depth map in software without requiring embedded sensor depth data. You can target adjustments by distance and feather the transitions. This is the best addition to the suite since U Point controls.
  • Color Grading in Color Efex: More control over the final color treatment without leaving the Color Efex workflow.
  • New Analog Filters: Chromatic Shift, Glass Effect, and Halation add more film-inspired options.
  • New Blending Modes: More control over how Nik edits blend with the underlying image.
  • Perpetual license: You buy it once. There is no subscription or annual renewal.

I covered what these tools actually do in practice in my Nik Collection 9 mini-review. It is worth reading before you buy if you want to go deeper than the feature list.

Before & After

After photo
Before | After Edited using Color Efex 9 Filters - Tonal Contrast, Pro Contrast, Brilliance/Warmth

After photo
Before | After Edited using Color Efex 9 Filters - Tonal Contrast, Pro Contrast, Brilliance/Warmth, Foliage, Lens Vignette, Global Adjustments [Viveza] (with AI Mask)

After photo
Before | After Edited using Color Efex 9 Filters - Tonal Contrast, Pro Contrast, Brilliance/Warmth, Foliage, Lens Vignette, Global Adjustments [Viveza] (with Depth Mask) to darken background

Kai's Football Portrait

For this photo, the AI Mask let me select and darken the background quickly, while Tonal Contrast and Pro Contrast brought out the texture in the uniform. The blue jersey pops, the blacks stay deep and clean, and the finished image has the dramatic look I wanted without turning into an overprocessed mess.

Kai football portrait edited in Color Efex 9
Edited using Color Efex 9 Filters - Tonal Contrast, Pro Contrast, Brilliance/Warmth, Foliage, Global Adjustments [Viveza] (with AI Mask) to darken background

Which Product Should You Consider?

Nik Collection 9

Nik Collection remains my easy recommendation for photographers who want creative color and black-and-white tools that fit naturally into an existing workflow. Color Efex and Silver Efex are still the stars for me, while AI Masks and Depth Masks make selective editing faster.

DxO PureRAW 6

PureRAW 6 is an amazing RAW-processing tool, but it requires patience. I recommend it for important images where you plan to invest serious editing time, not every photo you intend to process quickly in Lightroom.

Read my DxO PureRAW 6 review before deciding whether its quality-versus-speed tradeoff works for you.

Closing Thoughts

After 18 years, Nik is still the secret sauce in my workflow because it helps me get to the result I want faster without taking control away from me. The new AI and Depth Masks make version 9 easier to use, but the real reason to own it is the same as it has always been: Color Efex, Silver Efex, Viveza, and a deep collection of filters that actually earn their keep.

Thursday, April 9, 2026

REVIEW: DxO PureRAW 6 — The King of RAW Detail Recovery?

Camera ReviewRonMartBlog

REVIEW: DxO PureRAW 6 — The King of RAW Detail Recovery?

REVIEW: DxO PureRAW 6 — The King of RAW Detail Recovery? product photo
Click here to see how to use my discount for all DxO products

TL;DR ⚡

DxO PureRAW 6 is a powerful detail-recovery tool that can revive surprising amounts of information from RAW files, but it is too slow to justify on every image.

PureRAW 6 consistently recovered more detail than I expected, especially from files I would have otherwise considered limited or borderline throwaways. The tradeoff is speed, which makes it most compelling for important keeper images rather than bulk processing.

Table of Contents

  1. Who it’s for and who should skip
  2. Before & After
  3. Side by Side Shots in Lightroom
  4. Closing thoughts
  5. Related articles

Who it’s for

  • Photographers who want the best possible detail recovery from RAW files, not just “good enough”
  • Pros or serious enthusiasts restoring older, sentimental, or hard-to-replace images
  • Shooters willing to trade speed for maximum image quality on select photos

Who should skip

  • Photographers who are already happy with Adobe or manufacturer RAW conversions
  • High-volume shooters who need fast turnaround and cannot wait on long processing times
  • Anyone expecting it to fix motion blur, missed focus, or fundamentally bad captures
  • Anyone shooting mostly HEIC or small RAW formats, since DxO seems built around full RAW support first and is not especially friendly to HEIC workflows

Before & After

After photo
Before | After f/2.8 for 1/30 sec at 44 mm ISO 6400 [0 EV, Pattern metering, Flash fired, Manual with EF24-70mm f/2.8L II USM]

After photo
Before | After f/5.6 for 1/160 sec at 200 mm ISO 12800 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Manual with EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM]

After photo
Before | After f/5.6 for 1/125 sec at 105 mm ISO 65535 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Aperture priority with FE 24-105mm F4 G OSS]

After photo
Before | After f/2.8 for 1/200 sec at 155 mm ISO 25600 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Manual with EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM]

After photo
Before | After f/22 for 1/13 sec at 24 mm ISO 25600 [0 EV, Other metering, No flash, Aperture priority with NIKKOR Z 24-70mm f/4 S]

After photo
Before | After f/5.6 for 1/25 sec at 16.5 mm ISO 5000 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Aperture priority with XF16-55mmF2.8 R LM WR]

After photo
Before | After f/4 for 1/100 sec at 18.3 mm ISO 6400 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Aperture priority with 24-70mm F1.8-2.8]

After photo
Before | After f/2.8 for 1/125 sec at 90 mm ISO 10000 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Manual with FE 90mm F2.8 Macro G OSS]

Side by Side Shots in Lightroom 📷

The photos below are the test photos used for my review. Click any photo to open to see a larger size.

Click here to view the entire gallery of images used for this review.

This 2012 image was the first file I threw at PureRAW 6 to decide whether it was even worth reviewing. The recovery in the hair, eyebrow, and eye detail stopped me cold. I genuinely couldn’t believe what I was seeing. Naturally, my next move was to see whether any of the tools I already use could beat it. They couldn’t.

Real-world shot 1
Canon 1DX, f/2.8 for 1/30 sec at 44 mm ISO 6400 [0 EV, Pattern metering, Flash fired, Manual with EF24-70mm f/2.8L II USM]

Even Canon’s own DPP couldn’t match what PureRAW 6 did with this image. It honestly felt like I had unlocked a kind of magic—something powerful enough to make me want to go back through my older photos and see how many of them could be given new life with better sharpness and detail. Click the photo to open the original size 👆

This one gave me a pretty funny surprise. It was shot at ISO 10,000, and PureRAW recovered enough detail that I suddenly realized my daughter had colored her face with a highlighter—something that was completely lost in the original file.

Real-world shot 2
Sony a7R Mark III, f/2.8 for 1/125 sec at 90 mm ISO 10000 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Manual with FE 90mm F2.8 Macro G OSS]

Notice how the hair by her cheek and the marks on her face are recovered, while the skin still looks natural and believable. Click the photo to open the original size 👆

The Sony RX100 V is an impressive camera, but its tiny sensor can only do so much at ISO 6400. Even so, I was shocked by how much detail PureRAW was able to recover from this image.

Real-world shot 3
Sony RX100V, f/4 for 1/100 sec at 18.3 mm ISO 6400 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Aperture priority with 24-70mm F1.8-2.8]

Notice how well the wires and the tonal detail in the rocks are restored, especially considering this came from a 1-inch sensor camera. Click the photo to open the original size 👆

This was another one of those “are you kidding me?” results I never saw coming. The shot was taken after sunset at f/22, ISO 25,600, handheld at 1/13 sec, and yet the amount of detail PureRAW recovered from the Kazaridaru is remarkable.

Real-world shot 4
Nikon Z 7, f/22 for 1/13 sec at 24 mm ISO 25600 [0 EV, Other metering, No flash, Aperture priority with NIKKOR Z 24-70mm f/4 S]

Even the gravel and wall texture are recovered well enough given what was asked of the camera, but what really stands out here is the color recovery. Click the photo to open the original size 👆

Since this was shot handheld at 1/25 sec with no support, some motion blur is baked in, and PureRAW is not a magic fix for that. Still, the restored color pops and the detail recovery is strong enough that, viewed as a full image instead of a 100% crop, it is a legitimately impressive restoration.

Real-world shot 5
Fujifilm X-T30, f/5.6 for 1/25 sec at 16.5 mm ISO 5000 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Aperture priority with XF16-55mmF2.8 R LM WR]

Even details like the wallpaper at the far right edge of the frame are noticeably improved. The out-of-focus flowers also look better, and the textures around the table are significantly enhanced compared to the original. Click the photo to open the original size 👆

What really blew my mind here was the colored bands on the braces. It almost felt like PureRAW was using AI to reconstruct detail that barely seemed to exist in the original, yet the result still looks believable.

Real-world shot 6
Canon 1DX Mark II, f/2.8 for 1/200 sec at 155 mm ISO 25600 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Manual with EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM]

To be fair, this is the second version of this image because the original conversion came out a bit too dark. For this version, I used DxO PhotoLab 9.6.1 with its default preset to push the image a little further than Adobe’s default rendering. Click the photo to open the original size 👆

I almost spit out my coffee when I saw this result. This was a throwaway shot I took just to see how the Canon R6 Mark II would expose the flowers against a very bright background, yet the recovered detail in the drum and pine cone makes this ISO 12,800 image look more like ISO 100 than it has any right to.

Real-world shot 7
Canon R6 Mark II, f/5.6 for 1/160 sec at 200 mm ISO 12800 [0 EV, Pattern metering, No flash, Manual with EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM]

With modern camera sensors, PureRAW 6 is capable of recovering an impressive amount of detail. A well-composed image with the right shutter speed no longer has to be dismissed as a throwaway shot just because the original file looks rough. This result proves that, in many cases, the detail really can be recovered. Click the photo to open the original size 👆

Closing Thoughts

I tested eight RAW files from eight different cameras, including images shot as far back as 2012, to see whether DxO PureRAW 6 really earns its reputation for detail recovery. It does.

The tradeoff is speed. Even on my 2026 system with fast M.2 SSDs, those eight files took 38 minutes to process. That makes PureRAW impractical for bulk use, but extremely compelling when image quality matters more than time.

I would not call it an everyday necessity. I would call it a premium restoration tool. Manufacturer RAW software is often good enough, but for paid work or sentimental image recovery where you want the best possible result, PureRAW clearly has a place.

👉 Click here to see how to use my discount for all DxO products

Sunday, February 8, 2026

Quick Look at Nik Color Efex 8 + DxO Discount Offer

Camera ReviewRonMartBlog

Quick Look at Nik Color Efex 8 + Discount Offer

For more than 17 years, I’ve been a devoted fan of the Nik Collection, with Color Efex remaining my go‑to tool for editing the majority of my photos. It’s actually been since the Google-era Nik days—before the DxO acquisition—that I last did a full review. So now, I’m kicking off a deep dive into version 8.

This series will include both short and long reviews covering the different tools in the collection. To start, here’s an introduction and a quick look at how I use Color Efex, along with some of my favorite filters.

Nik Color Efex 8
Nik Color Efex 8 with 7 filters applied

Table of Contents

  1. Before & After
  2. Video review
  3. Filters Used and Why
  4. Discount Offer
  5. Closing thoughts

Before & After

After photo

Before | After Heavy processing for effect only using only Nik Color Efex 8.0 by DxO

Video Review 🎥

If the player doesn’t load here, watch on YouTube.

Filters Used and Why

  • Tonal Contrast: Adds a bit more depth
  • Brilliance/Warmth: Saturatates the image for more color pop
  • Pro Contrast: Brightens face and details in shirt
  • Color Stylizer: Adds a bronze tone to the image overall but selectively toned down on the face with a U-Point control
  • Darken/Lighten Center: Darkens the entire image except the face to draw more attention to it
  • Image Borders: Adds a old-schoool deckled-edge effect that simulates peel‑apart instant photos
  • Reflector Efex: Simulates a silver reflector at the waist to demonstrate the usefulness of this filter

Discount Offer

If you did it right, this is what it should look like when your code is applied:

Closing Thoughts

I’ll admit I went a bit overboard with this photo, but I wanted to show how powerful Color Efex can be when you start stacking its filters. You don’t need complex masking or AI replacements—simply combining and experimenting with filters can dramatically transform an image. And once you land on a look you love, you can save it as a Preset for quick reuse.

In future videos, I’ll take a deeper dive into individual filters and highlight some of the creative ways you can use U‑Point controls.

Leave a comment to tell me what your favorite filters are and what you'd like to see me discuss in more depth in a future article.

Wednesday, October 19, 2016

PhotoPlus Expo New York 2016–Day 1

Today was a light day where on a small subset of exhibitors were on hand for the “Test Drive” event, but some of what I saw was very cool. Here are some of my favorites of the day:

Global Drone Union (GDU) Byrd  – Replace the gimbal, not the drone

IMG_9871

This was a super cool drone that collapses up and is easy to carry, but it has a unique feature – you can mount different gimbals. What this means is that in the near future you can mount any camera up to 5 pounds including DSLR’s and point and shoots like the Sony RX100 IV.

IMG_9870

While this drone does have the limitation that it can only travel up to 1000 meters from the user, FAA guidelines require line of site so this won’t be an issue. Instead, what people will love from this $849 drone (before the gimbal which should cost about $100) is that you can choose the device you want to use from major makers like Canon, Nikon and Sony, yet still have it control shooting via your phone app.

IMG_9872

I’ll have more news on these early next year after it has fully matured, but all signs show that this is the drone many photographers have been waiting for. If you are someone who is fine with having a camera provided by the drone, then they offer that too as shown in the display image above.

IMG_9896

DJI users will find the controls very familiar as there are ex DJI employees who worked together to make this product realize their dreams and ambitions about what a drone should be.

IMG_9897

Mounting your phone is exactly like the DJI and the feel of the controls seems the same from a quality standpoint, but more intuitive from a practical standpoint.

VR is getting real

IMG_9901

Ricoh was showing off the Theta SC 360 degree camera which is everything you like about the Theta S, but with a cost savings derived from not having an HDMI port. Aside from that, it’s the same lens and sensors so the final results are identical – at a lower price.

To really enjoy 360 cameras, VUZE was offering the 3D 360 degree VR camera which adds a whole new dimension to enjoying VR content:

IMG_9873

IMG_9878

Panono also showed off its unique 360 camera with demos of amazing shots achieved by tossing it in the air. Be careful though, as this device isn’t drop proof so if you toss it, you better catch it!

DxO One

IMG_9881

I’ve been eager to try the DxO One out ever since I heard about them, so it was fun to finally see them in real life. It not only works great with your iPhone as shown above, it offers a wide selection of underwater housings to take a great camera and make it even more practical:

IMG_9885

Unlike a GoPro, it offers a tiny LCD for the scenarios where your mobile phone isn’t attached as shown below:

IMG_9882

Placing it in the housing is a simple operation that happens in seconds, so you don’t have to choose do I want an underwater version or not – you can have both as shown below:

IMG_9886

IMG_9889

And why stop at an underwater housing, when you can have cool filters to go on the end as shown below to help you realize your creative intent:

IMG_9890

Ikan Gimbal Stabilizer

IMG_9862

The best way to describe the Ikan gimbals that I saw would be to say they are intelligent gimbals designed for mobile phone cameras all the way up to DSLR’s. It’s a brilliant design that works incredibly well. Definitely check them out if you are looking to get smoother video.

Conclusion

Lots more to come in what promises to be a fun and exciting show this year.

Disclosure

If you purchase links found this article, I may make a commission.

Wednesday, November 4, 2015

Canon RAW Conversion Test–Nov 3, 2015

A reader was recently asking me about RAW vs JPEG for a Canon workflow and in the process of replying to those series of emails, I had an ADD moment.

For fun I started comparing the RAW conversion of a Canon CR2 raw file using the latest RAW conversion software from Adobe and Canon as of November 3, 2015. To make things more interesting, Canon actually has two versions of its Digital Photo Professional (DPP) software floating around for legacy reasons, so I was curious as to the result I’d get using what amounts various different conversion techniques.

This is actually an exercise I do time to time anyway because as software and firmware gets updated, the processing changes often yield different results (not always for the better). While this article is Canon specific the same concepts apply to any camera that creates a RAW image that is supported by computer based software and/or Adobe products. If you haven’t done this exercise on your own already, I’d encourage you to do so!

Default in-camera JPEG


In-Camera JPEG (downsized in Photoshop,watermarked by Zenfolio)

This is when the raw data is converted in-camera and applies all of the editing settings like color space, picture style, white balance, etc… to give you the image you see on the rear LCD panel of your camera. Even if you “only shoot raw” you see this image as the thumbnail to your RAW file and it’s the data that the camera’s histogram that you see is based on.

This raw processing is burned into the firmware of your camera and it will only get updated if something significant warrants a change. As a result, you’ll often fine that the in-camera RAW processing is very different from software processing – especially if the software is getting updated regularly.

Lightroom CC 2015.2.1 (ACR 9.2.486)

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Lightroom CC 2015.2.1 / ACR 9.2.486

Lightroom uses Adobe Camera RAW (ACR) to convert your raw data in a CR2 file into something you can see and use. The develop tab allows you to tweak those settings, but Adobe also reverse engineers these files to try to create something you’d like as a starting point for your editing process (in the Camera Calibration section – see the “Process” option). The default is Adobe Standard which simulates Adobe’s ideal, but “camera” processing styles are designed to loosely mimic how your camera process images. In the case of Canon, they are trying to map to your Picture Styles.

Digital Photo Professional  (DPP)

DPP comes in the legacy version, DPP 3.x and under, which supports nearly every CR2 file Canon has made. Recent updates have added support for easily updating lenses without having to get a whole new version of DPP. Here’s what 3.x looks like:

DPP 3.15
DPP 3.15

It’s a crude and nasty UI that you’ll be tempted to dismiss. In fact, most people never bother to even install DPP off the disc so many don’t even know it exists. While the user interface does stink, the quality of the algorithms under that ugly UI are very powerful.

DPP 4.x

DPP 4.3.31.0
DPP 4.3.31.0

Someone at Canon got the bright idea to do a whole new DPP from the ground up that had much better support for things like printing, soft proofing, adjustments and more. However, getting parity with the previous version proved to be more than was expected so the new version only works with the latest cameras. What this means is that if you try to open up a CR2 file from an older camera, say a 5D Mark II or 1D Mark IV it may not be able to read the RAW file (although updates are promised – eventually).

While the new UI is better, it still is a far cry from Lightroom or ACR. As a result, I still rely on it for the underlying processing and not the user features.

In theory one should be able to “only shoot RAW” and generate the JPEG’s that would normally be rendered in-camera. Sadly this isn’t the case because the RAW processing done by DPP will use the latest technology vs the camera which uses its firmware – typically with much older processing techniques. However, it can also be frustrating when you see something you love on your LCD only to have to spend a lot of time getting your RAW image to match your CR2 thumbnail file. In fact, I’d argue that the quality of the firmware based processing is often superior to software alternatives.

Comparison

When you zoom in at 100% and compare the layers against each other you’ll notice that DPP 4.3 and Lightroom are pretty close to each other in the way that they process the raw data. The colors are a bit more rich and the highlights aren’t as blown on the DPP 4.3 version, but you have to look carefully to see the difference.

DPP 4.3.31.0 Raw Conversion 100% Crop
DPP 4.3.31.0

ACR 9.2.486 via LR CC 2015.2.1 Raw Conversion 100% Crop
Lightroom CC 2015.2.1 / ACR 9.2.486

In-Camera Default Raw Conversion 100% Crop
In-Camera JPEG

DPP 3.15 Raw Conversion 100% Crop
DPP 3.15

Where things get more interesting is that the old 3.15 version of DPP generates the file that is closest to the in-camera JPEG, but notice how none are identical. This is one of the big reasons why I try to shoot RAW+JPEG whenever I can as I like the in-camera processing since that matches what I saw on the rear LCD. It’s the softest of the image, but it’s typical Canon warm and vivid.

Click here to scroll through larger versions of the images converted in this article.

Notice the different results

If you have a good eye, you’ll notice that all methods result in different images – even if there are some similarities. This is a long running problem because the software in DPP is simulating what the camera does and its constantly being updated. The in-camera processing only changes if the firmware changes, and even then it’s rare for it to change unless there’s a problem. What this means is that you’ll never really be able to take the RAW and generate a JPEG that matches what you saw on your LCD (or CR2 thumbnail).

As a result, if you like what you saw when you were chimping the LCD and you want the option to use that photo, then you’ve gotta shoot RAW+JPG. If you don’t care then shoot straight RAW and just take whatever Adobe, or DPP gives you.

Advice for Canon Shooters

I love RAW and always shoot RAW, but I don’t always need to use the RAW file. For many images the default in-camera JPEG is a perfect starting point for editing. If I did my job right it’s 90%+ ready to publish in-camera. This means I can make some quick edits using my favorite plug-ins then print or publish to the web.

If I screwed up in camera, am printing large or doing commercial work where every pixel matters then to go to RAW. I always have that insurance on hand by shooting the RAW file, and I never delete my raw files.

If I’m not happy with how Lightroom or ACR processes the file so I start by processing the RAW in DPP and exporting it as a 16-bit TIFF using the Wide Gamut RGB color space (Edit | Work Color Space) using the File | Convert and save feature.

Some may also prefer to use other raw processors discussed in the next selection.

RAW Processing Alternatives

Of course there are other RAW converters out there that offer results that differ from the ones above. Some argue they are better, others suggest they are simply doing the technical equivalent of the processing above plus applying their own creative edits to an image up front. Two of the better RAW editors that I’ve used are Piccure+ and DxO OpticsPro.

For completeness I’ve included how a couple of them handled this file as well.

Piccure+ 2.5.0.55

Piccure+ 2.5.0.55
Piccure+ 2.5.0.55 (learn more)

Piccure+ is powerful, but it is painfully slow with the most awful user interaction experience I’ve seen in my 26 years of software development thanks to its lack of a proper save implementation.

I’m told by the founder that the design is optimized for batch operations whereby you choose your project folder up front and then when you work on the file the image is stored there. The problem is that the location where you set your project info isn’t visible when you are doing your file processing so it becomes a mystery as to where your file went. What’s more the way you get back is via the back button which is sometimes replaced by the cancel button which isn’t exactly intuitive either.

Eventually you get used to the user-interface quirks and while it is slow to work, it does a great job. It’s batch mode design can be helpful if you want to give it a bunch of files to process overnight while you sleep, so if you love its RAW conversion then there’s a way to love it without experiencing the pain of processing. 

Here’s how it handled this file:

Piccure+
Piccure+ created a darker, saturated and softer version

At first the image appears oversaturated, but if you look carefully it seems it has done a great job of color balancing the image for the maximum dynamic range and tonal range of each color. The net result is an image that looks visually pleasing without appearing to be overdone – in my opinion.

The default noise reduction and sharpness settings do leave the image softer than Adobe, and Canon typical do, but that can be adjusted to suit your desire. Personally I’d still rather leave the noise reduction to Noiseware after the fact.

DxO OpticsPro 10.5.1.848

DxO OpticsPro 10.5.1.848
DxO OpticsPro 10.5.1.848

DxO OpticsPro has a wealth of powerful features making it act like Lightroom and Perfectly Clear rolled into one. The advantage to this is that you end up with a lot of powerful editing done in one place and it can be saved as a preset for default processing of your RAW images. DxO’s experience with sensors and cameras comes into play to create corrections that promise to minimize the negative effects of noisy sensors and lens distortion / vignetting.

Here’s how it handled this file:

DxO OpticsPro
OpticsPro really brightened up the shadows

DxO does a lot of cool stuff and has noise reduction software that I think is superior to Lightroom and DPP, but still not as good as Noiseware. The image that gets created is pleasing but it is different size than the others so you’ll notice some pixels shifting around if you look at all of the images in the sample gallery.

Conclusion

Click here to scroll through larger versions of the images converted in this article.

Licensing restrictions for this file required me to use a watermark and limit the file size, but it’s still easy to tell what changes between each version when viewing larger files. All images are copyright Ron Martinsen and may not be redistributed, linked or repurposed without written permission.

Personally there’s no wrong way, so this isn’t really a call to action to change your workflow. Instead, it’s about awareness of some things to consider. What’s more, some of the “I only shoot RAW” zealots may find that life is much simpler when you use a little storage space to have the option of using the JPEG for non-critical scenarios (like the 200 shots of your kids or pets), and just process the RAW when they actually need to.

Where to order

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I’ve got a special offer for Piccure where you can save 10% when you CLICK HERE and use the coupon code RONMART as shown above (available via credit card only).

DPP comes free with your camera on a CD, but you can also get it off Canon’s website using your camera serial number. Be sure to check out my article entitled Guest Blog: Five reasons to try out Digital Photo Professional by Andrew S. Gibson to learn how to master cool features with DPP.

Adobe Camera Raw can be free if you download the Adobe DNG Converter off their web site, but most people will use it via Lightroom or Photoshop.

DxO OpticsPro (available on Amazon) is the most expensive of the bunch, but it fancies itself as a Lightroom alternative with exclusive features that normally require plug-ins so some consider it a fair deal.

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