Showing posts with label advice. Show all posts
Showing posts with label advice. Show all posts

Saturday, November 19, 2016

REVIEW: TTP Streetwalker Pro vs Glass Taxi (UPDATED: Nov 20, 2016)

Side By Side

In 2008, my favorite backpack company released a bag series called the Streetwalker, and as of 2016 the Pro version is still my favorite bag!. This series comes in three varieties:

  1. Streetwalker - 2 lbs and 9.5” W x 17” H x 6”D - Simple and compact
  2. Streetwalker Pro - 2.6 lbs and 10”W x 17.5” H x 7.5” D - Slightly larger in between a full size and small backpack - this is my favorite size!
  3. Streetwalker HD - 3.8 lbs and 11.5” W x 19” H x 8.5” D - Full size backpack with room for a 15" laptop

In this article I'm going to compare the Streetwalker Pro with the Glass Taxi that I loved in the days before the Streetwalker series existed.

As a point of reference my Glass Taxi is 2 lbs and 17” H x 8.5” W x 9.5” D. Officially ThinkTankPhoto states that the Streetwalker series is not a replacement for the Glass Taxi, but rather a different offering. In addition, size and weight wise the basic Streetwalker is most like the Glass Taxi, but since I use my Glass Taxi so much and long for a little extra space I decided to step up to the Streetwalker Pro.

The first thing I noticed when I got the Streetwalker Pro was that it was light and super deep (2" deeper than my Glass Taxi). I've tried to show the difference in the photo of both bags below with my Glass Taxi in the front, but it is hard to get the full impact from just a photo.

Side 1

However when loading the Streetwalker Pro I noticed that my 1DX Mark II  (and previously my 1D X and 1D Mark IV) fit very comfortably in the bag even with the L-bracket on (something that was a challenge in the Glass Taxi). From the moment I got it back in 2008, it immediately became my favorite backpack and it is to this day. My Glass Taxi  for a few years and then eventually was given to a friend as I never had a need for it after getting the Streetwalker series, but then again I didn't own any huge prime lenses which is what its really designed for.

TTP Streetwalker Pro-1-2-Edit copy

Inside I found the the dividers are much thinner than those used in pre-2008 ThinkTankPhoto bags I've owned. I've always considered the dividers and zippers to be the best features of these bags, so a change was a little concerning. However, I quickly discovered that the thin versions seem to work almost as well and have the added benefit of creating more space in the bag (always a plus). That said, I wish the old thicker dividers would come back.

One really great thing I noticed about the interior is that it finally has good pockets! As you can see on the right hand side in the picture above it now has two big nice zipper pouches versus the one useless velcro pouch in the Glass Taxi. The same holds true for the exterior - there's tons of wonderful pockets with places to hold pens, model releases, keys, and so much more. This is one place where the Streetwalker Pro is a clear winner!

Just like all other TTP bags, the added rain protection for a heavy storm comes in the form of a "shower cap" design but it has nothing built-in.

From the exterior the new huge size pockets (show below) and the big pockets on the front (shown at the beginning of this article) make the Streetwalker Pro a very desirable bag to own. I've always found you can't have enough pockets, and this is one bag where I've got more than I need (for now) and that's a good thing!

TTP Streetwalker Pro-4-Edit copy

Conclusion

I’ve been using my Streetwalker Pro since 2008 and I love it. Over the long-haul I stopped using the Glass Taxi for anything but large glass. In fact, even in November 2016, my Streetwalker Pro is often my “go to” bag when I need to carry a lot in a compact bag.

My bag has held up well and the only issue I had with it was the zipper sticking on the turn (due to the glide angle, not a zipper issue) which has been addressed in all models since shortly after I got mine in 2008.

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Sunday, April 24, 2016

PhotoFocus: Travel Photography Tips & Tricks Hangout (Special Offers)

PhotoFocus Travel Webinar

Thanks for joining me for my a hangout with photofocus.com here. If you didn’t make it you can click the photo above to watch the video archive and learn more. You can also get the PowerPoint for the presentation here or the PDF of the presentation here.

During this video I gave some practical advice about travel photography as well as doing some demos in Perfectly Clear.  Here’s a special 15% discount for those who watched using the coupon code Springclean:

Save 15% - Coupon Springclean

If you already have a coupon code, replace it and use this one by clicking Update Coupon to save even more!

Here’s links to some of the things that may come up during the hangout:

Software

Gear

Printing Advice

Deals / Special Offers

General Advice

CLICK HERE to learn how to join Ron to Meet Scott Kelby in Seattle on Tuesday April 26th – limited availability.


Click here for my Topaz Labs discount coupon code

Tuesday, January 27, 2015

Top 10 Things To Improve Your Photography

Follow these tips to start making better photographs
Follow these tips to start making better photographs

I’ve been blogging about Photography since 2008. During that time I’ve enjoyed the opportunity to review well over a thousand different products – some of which have been for the blog and some have been products I purchased personally. During my journey I’ve learned a lot, so what follows are the 10 most valuable things I’ve learned since I first became a photographer in 1984 with my Canon Rebel AE-1.

What follows here are the tips I would give my family and friends if they came to me today asking for advice on how they could improve their journey in photography.

  1. Get educated on how to take great photos  – Great gear helps but knowing how to use it matters even more. Simply put, you can spend tens of thousands of dollars on great gear and you’ll certainly get sharper images that are super clean with faster shutter speeds than those who buy the bargain basement gear. However, a tack sharp boring shot is still a boring shot.

    Knowing how to use your gear and how to compose a scene goes a long way into making even the most basic gear look impressive which is why great pros can blow your $10k gear investment away with their iPhone shots.

    To learn how to make the most of the gear you have, I strongly recommend you check out my which books should I read? article. Even if you can’t handle reading books, it also offers great training suggestions from my friends at KelbyOne and BPSOP.

    Photographers like me also offer training, so contact me or a favorite photographer  for details on how you can get educated by people who can really help.


Do as much as you can in-camera, but software helps you get the best results

  1. Edit your images to enhance and remove distractions – Even if your only camera is your cell phone, to get the results you are expecting from your camera you’ll need to know some basic post-processing techniques.  To do that you’ll want the right software to make that task easy. You’ll also have the reality of managing your huge library of photos, so you’ll need the right products to help you find your photos quickly and easily. As a result, at least an investment in Lightroom will do wonders but there’s also a variety of great plug-ins that can help you get results quickly and easily.


A high quality bag can save your gear from disaster


BlackRapid makes great straps and bags for small cameras

  1. Protect your camera investment! If you get serious about photography you’ll quickly spend well over $500 and more likely thousands. With a major investment like that you should take care of it by both storing it properly and in many cases getting camera insurance. A great camera bag can help you hold all of your stuff in an organized way as well as protect it from the inevitable falls.

    TIP: Avoid camera bags with the name of camera makers on them – it only tips off thieves that you are carrying expensive camera gear and who makes it.


Show the world before the place where you stored your photos fails or gets lost

  1. Show the World Your Photos – Your photos that only live on electronic storage are pointless. Something inspired you to take that shot, so be proud of your work and let people see it.

    Sharing could be old school printing (which is even more fun when you printing your own photos) or as fancy as an online portfolio website.  However the reality for most is that they’ll end up being shared on social networks like Instagram, Google+. Facebook, etc… which makes more sense than them sitting on your phone until it gets lost or stolen or on a hard drive until it crashes. At least if you lose your data there’s some place you can go to see that important photo (especially those of your children).

    TIP: Stop obsessing about megapixels! Normal people don’t need the super megapixel cameras like the Nikon D810 or Sony a7R. Your 1080p HDTV is only 2.1 megapixels and even the hot new 4k TV’s are only 8.29 megapixels.  What’s more, social media sites like Facebook and Instagram need even less pixels! 


Self-printing can be a fulfilling final step of sharing your artistic vision with the world

  1. Print some of your favorite photos at least once a year – Think about it – how will people 50 or 100 years from now see the photos you taken of your family members, vacations, or even of yourself? Digital devices fail and digital storage relies on people making backups. Since backup storage and file formats always change, who will keep this process going 100 years from now?

    Here’s a great article that sends this point home that I encourage you to read.

    Printing doesn’t have to be complicated. Printing could be as simple as taking your photos (including the unedited ones) down to your local photo print store or shipping them off to an online print service. If you enjoy seeing your photos printed then you can enjoy the complete end to end vision of your artistic intent by printing your photos yourself

Canon Speedlite 600EX-RT
Canon Speedlite 600EX-RT

Nikon SB-910 AF Speedlight
Nikon SB-910 AF Speedlight

  1. Get Better Light – Yes, the beauty of sunrise and sunset can make for gorgeous natural light, but sadly it’s not always there where you want it and when you need it.

    If you’ve invested in a high end camera that supports a flash then get one! Having flash on the top of the camera far away from the lens can really make a huge difference between a good shot and a dark and noisy one.

    Get a good flash like the Canon 600EX-RT or the Nikon SB-910 then read On-Camera Flash Techniques to learn how to use it. You don’t need 4 or even 2 of them because you are not Joe McNally, so just get one get one and learn how to use it properly on your camera. It will help you tremendously when you are indoors.

    TIP: Remember aperture is for creative intent, so don’t be duped by “fast lens” stupidity. It amazes me how people think they don’t need a flash anymore once they buy their 50mm f/1.4 lens because it’s a “fast lens”.

    First of all, all the 50mm f/1.4 lenses I’ve ever used have PAINFULLY slow autofocus so you certainly aren’t going to be focusing faster. In fact, in low light – you’ll be lucky if your shots are even in focus because you’ll be focus hunting so much! A fast focusing f/4 lens with stabilization might actually help you get the shot better than your

    Secondly, a lower f-stop number WILL give you more light and more light means faster shutter speeds. However, think about your creative intent and depth of field. If you intend to capture a full scene, then the super shallow depth of field you get with f/1.4 is NOT the aperture you should be using. f/5.6 of even f/9 might make more sense for your creative intent, so your new nifty 50 isn’t going to buy you significantly faster shutter speeds than the f/4 lens you probably already had.

    A shallow depth of field f/1.4 shot can be awesome, but it is very limiting and certainly not appropriate for every shot indoors of a child, a concert, an event or every travel shot. As a result, don’t be fooled into thinking that a small investment in a 50mm lens means you don’t need to know how to use a flash.


Drastically improve your handheld shots with this cool trick from Gary Parker


Tripod & Ball Head Recommendations

  1. Want sharp shots without a flash? Learn how to stabilize your camera. Yes, it is true that if you have a good hold of your camera with your arms supported against your body you can get a sharp shot. However, most of us mere mortals still have shaky hands so stabilizing our camera can mean the difference between a razor sharp shot and a fuzzy shot.

    If you can get a lens (or camera) with electronic image stabilization (e.g., IS, VR, OIS, OSS, OS, etc…) then that will certainly help, but often times even that isn’t enough. If it is not, then use this special handheld technique or DISABLE your electronic image stabilization and use a good tripod (tripod & head recommendations).


Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM (my review)
Nikon AF-S 24-70mm f/2.8G ED

  1. Get Great Lenses FIRST – I’ve said it a million times, but I’ll say it again. Lenses are like audio system speakers. You can have a $100,000 audio system but if you connect it to $99 speakers you’ll get $99 sound. The same is true with lenses, so a used camera with the latest and greatest lenses will get you SIGNIFICANTLY sharper images than the latest camera and kit lens bundle at your local warehouse club or bargain online store.

    Check  out my which lens should I buy? article for my recommendations and check it regularly as I try to update it when there are big changes. In fact, I’ll probably update it later this month to reflect some of the great lenses I’ve tested recently.

Canon EOS 70D
Canon EOS 70D
  (Review)
Nikon D7100
Nikon D7100
(Review)

  1. Get a good camera to start with and stick with it until you have everything else first. Yes, having a great camera that performs well at high ISO’s like the Nikon D610 / D750 or Canon 6D / 5D Mark III can be extremely valuable, but having a good lens and a flash might mean you never have to use high ISO’s for most of your shots (assuming you aren’t a sports photographer). As a result, having a great flash and lens to go with your less expensive camera like the Canon 70D or Nikon D7100 (or even a less or used model) makes more financial sense.

Fujifilm X30
Fujifilm X30

Sony Cyber-shot DSC-RX100 III
Sony Cyber-shot DSC-RX100 III
Fujifilm X100T
Fujifilm X100T

  1. Got a limited budget? If so, then don’t get a camera with interchangeable lenses. Photography is fun, but it is also an endless money pit. If you have thousands to spend, then go ahead and get a DSLR or mirrorless system with interchangeable lenses. Yes, you read that right – mirrorless cameras with interchangeable lenses may be small and the lenses slightly cheaper than their DSLR counterparts, but you’ll still blow even the most generous budget if you go there.

    If your objective is to take great photos without going broke, then get a great compact like the Fujifilm X30 or the Sony RX100 III. If you insist on better image quality then consider a Fujifilm x100s or the x100t which will give you DSLR quality, but with a fixed lens so you have to think about your photography.

    Still too expensive? Consider getting the best smart phone you can afford the next time your phone is eligible for an upgrade. The latest models offer incredible image quality in a compact package.

    Got a big budget? You still might want one of these cameras when you are “packing light”.

Conclusion

Photography is fun, but it is no different than other hobbies like golf or sewing – it’s easy to spend a fortune and still get poor results. My advice here is based on years of experience and is offered to try to save you both money and frustration along your journey.

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Thursday, January 30, 2014

What Photoshop Books Should I Read? (UPDATED: Jan 30, 2014)

One of my top blog posts was my article entitled "Which Books Should I Read?" lacked a detailed discussion about Photoshop books because of the time of its writing I was still getting up to speed on Photoshop. I've now had time to read a big stack of Photoshop books and have some concrete recommendations to go along with that article now.

If you are like me you find Photoshop to be both poorly laid out and daunting to learn. It's easy to buy a stack of books and never get anywhere beyond cropping then clicking Auto Levels, Auto Contrast, and Auto Color (and possibly Variations if you've discovered that one) and calling it a day. In essence you've spend a fortune on a product that doesn't really do much to help you with your photos. Fear not, you aren't alone!

Starting with the Basics

One of the problems with most Photoshop books is that they've forgotten that there are still people on this planet who don't know the fundamentals of Photoshop. If you don't know how to add or subtract from a selection or even what all of the selection tools do, then it will drive you insane when the book simply says "select the girl in the photo" who inevitably has wispy hair going everywhere!

If you are a Photoshop novice (and it is okay to admit that you are) then I highly recommend you start with Teach Yourself VISUALLY Photoshop CC (My old CS3 version review). However, the important thing to remember when reading Photoshop books is that you MUST apply what you've read on the computer. If you simply read it and move on then you'll forget it, so practical application is essential.

Okay, I know the basics now just show me how to do cool stuff

Now there are a handful of really great Photoshop books, but there comes a point where you just want to get on with it and start doing some cool stuff. Once you see that you can do cool stuff yourself, then you have the motivation to read all of those other good Photoshop books. For this I've found that there is one definitive MUST READ Photoshop book for anyone who as ever wanted to create pro looking photos and its called Scott Kelby's 7 Point System for Photoshop CS3. Yep, that's right - it's the same Scott Kelby that wrote The Digital Photography Book - Volume 1 (2nd Edition) which is #1 on my list of recommended Photography books. While it may seem like I'm becoming a bit of a Kelby fan boy, the reality is that the guy just knows how to write great books in a way that gets down to business so you can get your work done. This book has helped me tremendously and I know it will do the same for you. Once again I'll repeat , the important thing to remember when reading Photoshop books is that you MUST apply what you've read on the computer and in this case you must also WORK WITH THE SAMPLE FILES!!!!

Just cut to the chase, what's your recommend reading list?

Okay, here in order of importance (always read #1 first) are the books I recommend you read if you want to master Photoshop:

  1. Teach Yourself VISUALLY Photoshop CC  (see my Teach Yourself Visually Adobe Photoshop CS3 book review which still applies to newer editions)
  2. Scott Kelby's 7-Point System for Adobe Photoshop CS3 (Review) - no CS4 or CS5 version but it is still applicable and a MUST OWN book)
  3. The Adobe Photoshop Book for Digital Photographers (or the version that applies to your installed version of Photoshop – here’s my last reviewed version)
  4. The Photoshop Channels Book is the magic resource that will teach you how to create complex selections that you find impossible to do right now (WAY better than Photoshop Masking & Compositing)
But wait, 3 of those 4 books are Kelby books. What the heck?

Yes, it's true Scott Kelby writes some great books and I highly recommend them. However, that doesn't mean that there aren't other great books out there. In fact, there are. However, I've found that great books like Photoshop LAB Color: The Canyon Conundrum and Other Adventures in the Most Powerful Colorspace  don't appeal to the masses and quite simple are too advanced for someone reading an article like this. At some point I may do an advanced Photoshop book list, but for now I'm catering to those who are getting started and Kelby is the man right now.

Extra Reading Recommendations

If you’ve finished my recommended books and want more, then you’ve gotta try these:

A word about Photoshop CS5

As of the time I wrote this article the selection of Adobe Photoshop CS5 books was getting better, but still some key books haven’t been updated for CS5. Photoshop CS5 has some drastic changes to its user-interface and performance improvements. In addition, most cameras released after June 2010 that create RAW image files can't be opened in Photoshop CS4 or Lightroom 2.x because the newer version of Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) is only integrated into Lightroom 3.x and Photoshop CS5 and up. If you can afford it, then it is a worthwhile upgrade, however you should always get the books for your specific version of Photoshop so look for CS4 updates to the books listed in this article.

What about Lightroom?

The Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 5 Book for Digital Photographers (my old review) is the bible for Lightroom and has stuff you won’t find anywhere on Adobe’s web site or manuals. I love it! It also includes an adaptation of the 7 Point System for Lightroom so it’s a great resource! If you want more depth, then check out The Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 5 Book: The Complete Guide for Photographers.

What about HDR?

This is one place where I say skip the book and go to the video and there’s nothing better out there than HDR Workshop DVD by Trey Ratcliff of StuckInCustoms.com. It’s a great resource that is easy to follow and worth every penny – especially for those who own Photomatix and don’t know how the hell to get good results out of it (which is where I was until watching this DVD series).Trey does have a book called A World in HDR which is a decent resource, but I got a lot more out of the DVD’s. However, the best place to go these days is flatbooks.com and search for Trey’s latest eBooks.

I want more info about Printing from Photoshop?

Printing is a whole beast in and of itself which is why I created my printing series and even my own Printing 101 eBook, but if you really want to get into printing then again I say watch The Perfect Print DVD Series by Randy Hufford first. It’s also useful to read The Digital Print if you want more depth than what my book offers.

But Ron, I REALLY hate reading books - what other choices do I have?

If you are the ADD type like me, it may be hard to focus long enough to finish a book unless you have a lot of uninterrupted time (I read many of my books when I was on bed rest due to back pain). Now that I'm back on my feet again, I'm finding it difficult to read books again. As a result, I've found my Kelby Training membership be a valuable resource due to the great detailed videos the have on their site that simply "get to the point" of the thing I'd like to do. I also like their magazine because it allows me to review short articles that solve specific common problems.

I struggle to find time to read books and magazines, how do you do it?

I have this problem too, but I've found a few things that work well for me. First, if I'm home sick I'll try to read for as long as I can before I eventually fall asleep (if your eyes get heavy then stop reading - its pointless). Next, is when I'm on the airplane (which isn't that often for me). Planes are a great place because it makes the flight go quicker. Next is anytime I find myself waiting. I keep my book or magazine handy with me when I go to appointments or I am waiting for my kids (it's great when they are playing on the McDonalds play structure that I'm too big to fit in). Lastly, and perhaps the funniest, is when I'm in the restroom at home. You laugh, but I've found that if you simply read a couple pages each time you are perched on your porcelain throne that you can finish a book in a month or less. In fact, it usually causes you to get so interested in a chapter that you follow up with it afterwards so you can at least finish a chapter. Sure this might gross some people out and make them think twice about borrowing a book from me, but it's the truth and it works. Try it out!

I also always try to pick long flights when I travel and take my books with me. It’s forced time that I can dedicate to reading, and often I can finish at least one book each way of my trip. Get the Kindle version of the books to do this without having to carry a bunch of extra weight, but personally still prefer the printed or PDF eBooks over Kindle books since you sometimes loose the integration of photos and text together.

Okay, what if I'm too lazy to do any of the things you've suggested - what now?

I understand where you are coming from. When I started with Photoshop I got so frustrated that I just decided to throw money at the problem and pick up some plug-ins. While these work very well and I use them frequently today, despite my strong Photoshop skills, the key thing to realize is that being strong in Photoshop will teach you how to get the most out of your plug-ins by being able to control their impact on your photo using things like masks. With that said, I do have some favorite plug-ins and I would recommend that you get them even if you become great in Photoshop. My recommend list can be found in my What Plug-Ins Should I Buy? article.

I also teach and do contract work, so contact me if you want to pay me to get you up to speed or edit a photo on your behalf.

These are expensive, do you have any discounts?

See the Discount Coupon Code page for the latest versions and discounts.

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Thursday, July 11, 2013

Best of the Blog: sRAW a new alternative for Sports Photography

I’m researching for a future blog article, so tonight I put a minor update on an old 2008 article that I think many of my current readers might enjoy. The cameras have changed, but the concepts and improvement percentages remain roughly the same.

If you have kids, then you will most likely find yourself shooting sports. For most of us it will be soccer or basketball, which means a lot of fast-paced action. This also means a lot of pictures are taken, so it isn't long before your camera is bogged down trying to write photos to your compact-flash or SD card.

The RAW versus JPEG dilemma

Unless you've been living in a cave, you've heard numerous arguments about the advantages of RAW over JPEG and near religious debates as to why to use one over the other. The purpose of this article isn't to rehash that debate.

RAW is a technically superior file format because you capture everything your sensor sees which gives you creative freedom later to alter things like white balance and exposure drastically to create results not possible with JPEG. It also is only lightly compressed in a lossless format (on Canon, Nikon has compression options), which means no pixels are lost during saving. The downside to RAW files are that they are large and must be converted to another format before they can be made useful. RAW is my preferred format for my digital workflow. Back when I wrote this article originally, my Canon 1D Mark III saved CR2 images that were 3888 x 2592 pixels which are about 14+ MB each on average.

JPEG is great because it does compress the image which makes the file smaller. Smaller files mean faster burst mode performance and more files on your CF/SD card, hard drive, etc... Its major disadvantage is that you must recompress the image on every save, so you lose data with each save. How much you lose depends on the compression level, but it happens with all saves. In addition, you are limited in what you can do with exposure and white balance changes after the fact, so it is more important to get these things right in-camera for the best results (and most of us fail to do that until we become very good).

Another feature of JPEG is that the camera color space and built-in enhancements (i.e., saturation, sharpening, etc...) are applied to the image prior to saving, so the out of camera result will typically look more vivid and sharp compared to the unedited RAW. This advantage can be a disadvantage if the default processing isn't what you wanted. The default processing is determined by your camera picture style (also called picture controls on Nikon), and some of these can be more saturated or sharpened than you might want for a given picture. Removing these edits can be very challenging, and impossible for beginners.

Some film photographers and photojournalists prefer the JPEG format because argue that if you get the results right in-camera, then you'll be fine. What's more, you'll have a shot that is immediately usable out of the camera (unlike RAW which always requires some degree of post-processing). On my old Canon 1D Mark III camera, I used the JPEG L (for large) setting and I've changed the camera default compression level of 9 to 10 to use the minimal amount of JPEG compression on my photos when I chose this format. This results in a 3888 x 2592 pixel images are about 4.8 MB each on average. That’s a significant size difference over the RAW’s!

Enough gibberish, what does this mean to me?

What does all of this mean? If I'm shooting the kids at soccer with a typical camera (at the time this was written that was a 50D or D300) and I chose to shoot RAW format, then I'm going to find myself waiting on my camera to write photos to the CF card after roughly 15 - 20 images taken in 3 to 6 frame bursts. If I shoot with JPEG, then I can generally keep pace with the action with a 6+ frame burst and 60+ images before my buffer fills.* However, there's a gotcha in that it will come with a loss of what I can do after the fact to save a picture. In sports, getting perfect in-camera results is very difficult, so RAW is very helpful for this reason. A good example of this is a shade covered soccer field where you get bright sun and dark spots on the field as shown in the following photo:

In RAW you could expose both sections of this shot differently using Lightroom (or Adobe Camera RAW) and create a perfectly exposed shot. In JPEG, this is what you live with, so the over exposed face (a.k.a, white clipping) on the boy's face with the blue jersey can't be corrected.

* = It should be noted that camera buffers have gotten larger, so many current models (i.e., T5i, 5D Mark III, 6D, D600, D7100, etc…) can typically exceed 100 JPEG or more before the buffer fills. For RAW files it varies on the camera but it’s getting more common to see over 20 RAW images before the buffer fills.

A Solution - sRAW

In Canon DSLR's dating back to 2007 a new RAW format was introduced in the 40D to provide another possible solution to this problem. Canon called it the small RAW format (sRAW). sRaw on my 1D Mark III was 1936 x 1288 pixels and saved in the same CR2 format as the large images. The difference is that since there are less pixels of information, the file size is only 7.7 MB on average. While this is larger (almost twice as large) than JPEG, it is still half the size of a traditional RAW. This means that you can capture more images and write them to your CF card faster. While I wouldn't want a small image like this for my motorsports work, it makes perfect sense for my kids sports photos because how often do I ever make prints larger than a typical 4x6? In fact, even with typical cropping, I've found I can do prints as large as 11x14 without any problems using the sRAW format.

Even works for the big boys too

I currently shoot with the Canon 1D X, and even though it is a sports camera I my buffer eventually fills which can leave me struggling to keep up with the fast paced action in RAW. In fact, years ago it was my daughter's soccer game that forced me to give this format a shot when the weather conditions made JPEG too much of a risk. While some shooters might just stick with JPEG and shoot a higher ISO, I felt that keeping giving myself some wiggle room with RAW later made the most sense. Given the fact this was just a kids soccer game, I thought I'd give it a try and I was very happy with the results. All of the girls soccer photos in this article were taken with the 1D Mark III using sRAW and that was perfect for these shots as most have stayed on the hard drive and only a few were printed as 4x6” prints.

 

Conclusion

Canon has expand its system to add medium RAW’s, and Nikon allows different bit depths and compression methods to reduce its raw file size.  To my knowledge Nikon still has no sRAW or mRAW equivalent. Camera buffers have gotten bigger, but megapixels have also increased. As a result, the problems of 2008 still exist today so using a smaller raw format is a great way to balance performance with quality for things like kids sports.

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Disclosure

If you make a purchase using links found in this article, I may make a commission. It doesn’t cost you a penny more, but it does help to support future articles like this.

Monday, April 29, 2013

Post-Mortem: RonmartBlog.com Reader Appreciation Workshop on April 27, 2013 hosted by BlackRapid

My friends at BlackRapid are helped me out by hosting my first ever reader appreciation workshop in Seattle on Saturday April 27, 2013. Everyone seemed to have a great time and the most repeated phrase I heard was “this was better than most workshops that I’ve been to in the past”!

CALL TO ACTION IF YOU ATTENDED THIS WORKSHOP

If you attended this workshop please add your comments to this article to share what you thought about the workshop. If you took any photos then please share your link to your gallery of shots when you get a chance.

Our Beautiful Featured Models

All the attendees were raving about how much fun they had working with two of my favorite models Raia & Juliet. They gave a 110% with almost no break during the entire 5 hours they were there!

They both volunteered to give up a Saturday and work at a drastically to help make this event happen at the lowest cost possible, so a huge thanks goes out to these real pros. They made me look good as well as all of the photographers who worked with them!

Raia
Raia

Juliet
Juliet

I gave away thousands of dollars worth of Free Stuff!!!!


Think Tank Photo Pixel Pocket Rocket™ was given to ALL participants
A $18.75 value!

lens rental
2 Lucky Winners won a $100 Gift Certificate for a future rental


All participants won a FREE upgrade to the Premium Edition (a $99.95 value)

Nik Collection by Google - only $149
1 Lucky Winner won a FREE copy of the Nik Collection by Google (a $149 value)
Click here to learn more


1 Lucky Winner won get a FREE copy of the Topaz Photoshop Bundle (a $299.99 value!), and another won a copy of Adjust

BR_big-R_logoscript_on-Black-S

Yeti_Front-X2

BlackRapid let everyone try out their cool straps while they were at the workshop. They also gave away the Yeti (a $99 value - shown above), some lens bling and a sport strap to three lucky winners.

THANK YOU

Thank you to all the readers who attended, and a HUGE thank you to Ron Henry & BlackRapid for hosting his event Susie Nisco for pulling everything together to make it all run smoothly. Heck, Susie even pinched hit as a third model which was above and beyond the call of duty – BlackRapid is so lucky to have her on their team!

I’d also like to thank onOne Software, ThinkTankPhoto, Borrowlenses.com, Google, Topaz Labs, and BlackRapid for their generous gift support as well! I’d also like to thank Glazers Cameras  who gave us a discount on the rentals to help lower costs.

While this workshop cost me several hundred dollars and a day away from my family, I was thrilled to get a chance to interact with my readers. I wish I could have supported even more people, but the hands on approach of this workshop was very important to me. I hope everyone who attended enjoyed it. If you did, please show your support by sharing links to your favorite articles on your favorite websites, forums, social media, digg, etc…; donating; or coming back here to use my links or discount coupon codes when you order your photography gear or photo editing products. If you have any questions or need a link, just contact me and I’ll be happy to help! – Ron

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Disclosure

If you make a purchase using links found in this article, I may make a commission. It doesn’t cost you a penny more, but it does help to support future articles like this. Ron is also a featured photographer on BlackRapid.

Free gifts are based on email commitments from sponsors, but fulfillment is a the sole discretion of the sponsor. Winner is responsible for taxes and void where prohibited.Offers subject to change without notice.

Lucky Winners were announced during the event. Fulfillment will be via email, so the registrant is responsible for providing a valid email. An invalid email bounce will disqualify eligibility.

Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Ask Ron: What do you think of Lightroom 5?

Adobe announced the public release of the beta for Lightroom 5. Here’s a video on the new healing brush and you can learn more on the Adobe Blog:


Learn more on the Adobe Blog

I got multiple emails today asking me what I thought about it so I thought I’d just say a few words.

People often ask me why do I need Photoshop when Lightroom is so good. Until now one of my first responses was something like “because the clone / heal process in Lightroom is painful for anything beyond spot touchups, so you need to go to Photoshop to do real image corrections. With the inclusion of the advanced healing brush (which is closer to the content aware patch tool from what I’m seeing), the gap just got smaller. I think this is a great addition to the product and one I’m excited to see added.

The other big features announced today are (click here to learn more about them):

  • Radial Filter – I was surprised but glad to see this one as I do often make adjustments in my best images to try draw the viewers attention to the most important part of the scene. Vincent Versace does a good job of explaining this methodology in his book Welcome to Oz 2. It’s nice to have this built in for those quick touch ups, and it’ll be super helpful to photo journalists who have to do this to a bunch of images very quickly.
  • Upright – The ability to automatically level horizons or other lines in photos will be a huge time saver for me. I currently do this manually as a first step on many photos, so this and the new grid are something I’m very excited about. The demo that shows the new keystone corrections on buildings has me super excited!
  • Smart Preview – The ability to do offline work on my laptop when I don’t have my external hard drive connected is super important and something that was lost from LR 1.0. I’m glad to see this back and better than ever.

Conclusion

While I probably won’t install the beta (because I only have production and no test machines), I’m excited about what I see. Thus far no huge announcement has been made that makes me think that this is a must upgrade for those with older cameras on tight budgets. However, it looks like Adobe is listening and adding some nice new features that will be enough to entice me to upgrade.

Where to order

You can not buy this product at this time.

Click here to download the beta and try it out, but make sure you only do so on your test files – not your real files or catalog!.

Other articles you may enjoy

If you enjoyed this article, you may also enjoy these:

Disclosure

If you make a purchase using links found in this article, I may make a commission. It doesn’t cost you a penny more, but it does help to support future articles like this.

Adobe Creative Suite 6 Adobe

Friday, December 21, 2012

Things You Need AFTER You Buy Your New Camera - Must Have Photography Accessories

So you've got that shiny new camera you’ve always wanted for yourself, or you’ve just bought one for your significant other – now what?

One of the fatal mistakes that people make when moving up from a camera phone or point and shoot to a mirrorless or DSLR camera is that they fail to budget for the wealth of accessories that they’ll eventually need to buy to make the most of their investment. It’s like going from Putt Putt to real Golf where there are lots of tools of the trade needed to get the best results.

Now many people have different philosophies on this subject, and most of those opinions have formed based on the budget that someone had when they moved up to the big leagues of photography. As the thrifty person and they’ll tell you how they just bought a camera, did some DIY projects for accessories and used Freeware software. I’d encourage you to look at their work and see if that is where you want to go and if it is then if you think your skills are similar to theirs then perhaps that’s the right choice for you.

Personally I think that many people who get into photography as hobby have the budget to “do things right” and they want to get the right tools to get the best results. If this is you then read on for the advice I’d give any friend on what they need after they bought their new camera.

Overview

At a high level, I think the following things are needed in order of importance:

  1. Education – You can’t make the most of that expensive new camera unless you know how to use it, yet I teach people all the time who have spent thousands only to get shots that look worse than what they get on their phone or point and shoot because they never learned how to use their camera.
  2. Software – To get the results you are expecting from your camera you’ll need to know some post-processing techniques and you’ll want the right software to make that task easy. You’ll also have the reality of managing your huge library of photos, so you’ll need the right products to help you find your photos quickly and easily.
  3. Accessories – Just like in golf where you can buy a set of clubs and skip getting the glove, there’s consequences to not having the right accessories. In golf it’ll be that nice blister on your hand after playing 18 holes, and in photography it is typically disappointing results that could have been avoided with an accessories that typically cost less than $50. Sadly it’s just like golf though where there’s a bunch of those little accessories that you need, so a failure to budget for them can be a shock after the fact.
  4. Camera Bag – This is the photographers equivalent of a putter – you are always looking for the right one, but there always seems to be a compromise that keeps you searching for more. I think an easy way to see how long a photographer has been shooting is to ask them to list out all of the camera bags they have owned! A good one can make a big difference and the wrong choice can be disastrous (my horror story).
  5. Online Portfolio – No matter how good or bad you are at photography, you’ll eventually need a place to show off your work online. You’ll start off with sites like Facebook and Flickr, but eventually you get to the point where you only want to show your good shots in one place.
  6. Better Light – That on camera flash (if you have one) can work in a pinch, but you quickly realize that it’s not going to get the job done for the shots you really want to get. Sadly this is a place where you once again go down the rabbit hole of never ending expense.
  7. Stabilization – It doesn’t take long to realize that those cool shots you were hoping to get with your shiny new camera can’t be captured with a flash, and hand holding just isn’t going to work no matter how much you paid for that stabilized lens. This is where an investment in a good tripod and in some cases a monopod is going set you back a few bucks if you want to do it right the first time, or thousands if you fool yourself into thinking there’s a cheap solution.
  8. Better Lenses – That zoom lens that came with your camera is a huge improvement over what you’ve used before, so it’s easy to think that’s all you’ll ever need. However, it doesn’t take long to realize that your lens doesn’t get you close enough to the action, or it can’t fit everything in the room like you wish it could, or it doesn’t focus fast enough, or it’s images are just not as sharp and as colorful as your friends pro lens. There’s a solution, but the reality is something many dread to hear.
  9. Display and Printing – The final step in expressing your creative vision. When you own the process from capture to output it is very fulfilling, but like all things photography it can be very time consuming and expensive.
  10. Etc… Yes, the list never ends in photography. My parents own a ranch in Texas where they have a joke about the rancher who wins the lottery. When the reporter asks the rancher what he’s going to do with all of his millions he responds “keep ranching until it’s all gone.” Well photography is very much the same way in that there’s no budget big enough to get everything that you’ll want to have

Education

Some people like me can learn much of what they need to know from a book, so for them I wrote the article “Which books should I read?”. However, it doesn’t take long before these people are back asking for advice on photo editing, so I often follow up with my “What Photoshop books should I read?” article.

For many people, books are enough to get them going but for others I hear “I can’t learn that way – I just want to watch videos”. For people in this camp there is no better value for the money than Kelby Training (see my review for details and a discount).

Others come back and say, that they need the challenge of an assignment and want a teacher to help them so I typically point these folks to The Perfect Picture School of Photography (PPSOP) founded by one of my favorite photography authors Bryan Peterson.

For people who want more personal interaction than you can get online there are endless resources, but I find a Bryan Peterson Workshop is a good place to start (be sure to tell him I sent you). While I was a little disappointed the first time I assisted one of his workshops, I did observe a great improvement in 2012. I’ve had positive reports from others as well, so I think these are a great resource to get creative with hands on instruction.

I also do private training, classes, portfolio reviews and workshops. Here’s a couple postmortems of a couple of my workshops:

Contact me if you would like to work with me directly. NAPP, Joe McNally (Flash Bus & One Day Lighting Workshop), John Paul Caponigro, Greg Gorman and others have workshops worth attending too.

For more book suggestions, see the right column of my blog. My What’s Hot in Photography and Photo Editing Books articles list a bunch of new books that I haven’t had a chance to review in-depth either.

I’ve also written an eBook on printing as part of my printing series.

Software

At a minimum, I think every photographer should own Lightroom (see my Lightroom 4 review). This product helps you to organize your photos, make changes without destroying your originals, read your RAW files, and so much more. While some Apple users will be tempted to use Aperture, I personally have found Lightroom to be the best overall product. Both Aperture and Lightroom can be a little tricky to learn for the newcomer, but over the long-haul I think Lightroom is worth the effort. My favorite book on Lightroom is The Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 4 Book for Digital Photographers, but detail oriented Geeks may prefer The Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 4 Book: The Complete Guide for Photographers.

For many people, Lightroom may be all they need to get the results they want from their camera. For the more creative types or those wishing to push the limits, they will find themselves eventually investing in Photoshop. While Photoshop Elements is a cheaper alternative and a decent product, in the end it’s the full version of Photoshop that most photographers rely on as much as their best lens or camera.

Photoshop is powerful yet cumbersome so please refer to the education section above to help yourself get over the hump of learning it. However, even the best experts will rely on plug-ins to help them get their work done more efficiently. While it’s possible to do great work directly in Photoshop without ever using a plug-in, it’s much like cooking over an outdoor fire instead of using an oven and kitchenware.  As a result, I’ve written an article entitled “What plug-ins should I buy? (for Photoshop & Lightroom)” to help make sense of all of the choices from the major players in the industry. I probably need to update that article to account for the improvements in onOne Perfect Photo Suite 7, but much of the advice in that article remains the same.

I should also note that if you are going to be working with Photoshop then I highly recommend a Medium Wacom Intuos5 Digitizer Tablet. I don’t recommend the Bamboo for photography and personally I still use the Wacom mouse when I’m not doing brush work in Photoshop. If you have a Intuos3 or older tablet, then you might enjoy this article.

Lastly, no discussion of software is complete without a discussion of HDR as it’s the hottest topic in the business. My friend Trey Ratcliff is pretty much the front runner in this area, but I’m sure he’d agree with my HDR Software Comparison. You can also see some of Trey’s techniques in this tutorial.

Be sure to check out my discount coupon code page when ordering.

Accessories

There’s no end to the accessories you can buy in Photography, but I’ve try to boil this list down to the things that I have in my bag whenever I head out of my studio. I’m going to experiment with this cool new widget from B&H below to show my accessories list so I can modify it as my preferences evolve, so hopefully I can keep this part of this article fresh.

It’s worth noting that this contains a few specific items that require some additional information:

  1. For the polarizers and variable neutral density filters I have included 77mm as that’s a very common size, but the reality is that you must match this to the lens(es) you wish to use them with. However, I recommend the brands and models I’ve listed so the only variable that changes is your filter size. In addition, the Cokin set requires you to purchase Z-Series (not P-Series) rings for your filter size, so the kit isn’t the only purchase you need to make. I’ve also included both B+W and Hoya filters that I recommend, but personally I use Hoya. B+W is, in theory, the better brand, but I don’t like the brass rings they use. I also prefer Cokin set for my neutral density needs over the Singh-Ray, but the Singh-Ray is a great product (which also own) and it is the better ND only product.
  2. For the HoodLoupe you’ll need to match your LCD size. The 3.2” will work with 3.0” displays, but you can save a few bucks by getting an exact match.  
  3. Finally, the links for Photoshop and Lightroom are for the full version – be sure to get the version you need (Mac vs PC and Full vs Upgrade).

It should also be worth noting that there are billions of accessories out there and many are total crap, so don’t be surprised if you end up with others that disappoint or ones that I haven’t discovered yet that are awesome.

Camera Bag

Lowepro, Tamrac, Kata, Crumpler, etc… are just a few brands that you’ll have thrust upon you when you buy your gear, but honestly I don’t like any of them. The main reason why I’m not a fan of these bags is because I’m just unhappy with their quality of zippers and construction. Many people use them and swear by them, but when spending thousands on the best gear I want bags that are designed and built by pro photographers for working photographers (primarily photojournalists). To that end, ThinkTankPhoto is the most trusted brand in the business and once you use one you can’t go back to the other brands. You can see my TTP Bag Reviews here, but right now my favorites are:

  1. Airport Security – the ultimate travel bag that can be a backpack too
  2. Streetwalker Pro – my favorite on the go / lightweight load bag
  3. Modular Components – the perfect sports solution

With that said, there’s always situations where other bags fit the bill better so I’ve been known to rely on my Urban Disguise 40 (city shooting) or Logistics Manager (hauling studio gear) as well as many others. There’s no good one-size-fits all solution which is why photographers collect bags like golfers collect putters.

It should be noted that Think Tank Photo bags are also great because they are designed to fit in side the airplane, so I’ve avoided having to check my bag over many flights over the last 5 years thanks to this great design (including my big Airport Security and Airport Accelerator bags).

For the fashion-conscious photographers, Kelly Moore bags offer a great way to carry your gear in style and be stealth-like too.

Online Portfolio

I did a big web hosting series many years ago that was a big hit and at that that time Smugmug was my favorite choice. I’ve used them to host the photos on this blog and I rely heavily on their service (which runs on Amazon S3). However, Smugmug hasn’t kept up with the times so now my favorite place to store my photos is Zenfolio. I hold patents in web browser technology and am a 20+ year programmer, but when it comes to hosting my photos I don’t want any fuss. I want to drag, drop and be done. I want my site to look great without having any hassle. I want to sell my photos the way I want without any headaches. Zenfolio meets all of those needs which is why it’s the host of http://ronmartinsen.com.

See my review to learn more and my discount coupon code page to get discounts on Smugmug, Zenfolio, and more.

Better Light

Once you’ve got tired of noise from using higher ISO’s of your fancy camera, and noise reduction software isn’t cutting it anymore, you’ll want to invest in a flash. Sadly this is one of those places that opens another Pandora’s box in photography, but the results can be very rewarding. Here’s what I recommend:

Canon

Here’s the flash configuration I recommend for Canon shooters:

You’ll want to start with the 600EX-RT flash and build your way up from there. The ST-E3 is great once you want take your flash off your camera, and the battery pack gives you a lot more cycles before your flash starts to loose its oomph. The cord is for use with flash brackets and handy if you don’t own a ST-E3 but want to take your flash off the hot shoe (like when doing basic macro work).

Nikon

Here’s what I recommend for Nikon shooters which has the addition of a radio controlled ETTL solution via Pocket Wizard:  

Everything else mirrors the Canon solution.

Flash Accessories

You knew this was coming right? With a flash comes accessories as there’s always something to buy in photography! Here’s some basics to get you started – especially when you decide to take that flash off the camera.

For those who can’t make the investment in the Rogue Master Lighting Kit, I recommend at least getting the Color Correction Kit.

If you decide to shoot a friends wedding or get serious into event photography, then you’ll want to check out the Quantum QFlash & Custom Brackets Rotating Flash Bracket.

Home Studios

If you want to take the next step up then you might want to check out my Home Studio on a Budget article, and if you want the full monty then you can check out my studio setup.

Here’s a few good books on the subject of flash and studio lighting:

Stabilization

While I try to use garbage cans, benches, rocks, etc… as much as possible, there comes a time where you have to have a good tripod and monopod (for panning) to get the job done. To that end I’ve written an article about my tripod recommendations which also links to my recommendations on ball heads and monopods. I highly recommend you check it out!

I should also note that my GT1541 tripod is perfect for International travel because it just sneaks in under the maximum required height (when collapsed) so I only had to wait for quick measurements before I was on my way (versus others which would be required to be checked in).

Generally speaking, I do not recommend video heads for photography use as long exposure photography requires more stabilization than is required for video.

Better Lenses

Want sharper images with better color before they ever leave your camera? A great lens is a good place to start! In addition, there’s a good reason why lens makers don’t make a 10-600mm f/1.2 lens with image stabilization – its called the physics of light! No, it’s not a conspiracy of the lens makers – there are real-world legitimate reasons so lens choice is always a compromise. As you progress on your path in photography you’ll find out which ones make the most sense for you, but until then I wrote an article entitled Which lens should I buy? to help you decide.

TIP: Lenses offer stabilization called Vibration Reduction (Nikon VR), Image Stabilization (Canon IS), Optical Stabilization, etc… but this is for counteracting normal camera shake. They don’t replace a tripod and more importantly these should be disabled when using a tripod for best results.

You can see what I use here.

Display and Printing

Before you can start getting prints (even from a third party service) to look similar on screen to the way they will in print you’ll need help “Choosing The Right Display Calibration Device”. You owe it to yourself to have a calibrated display so that you don’t’ get major surprises when printing or viewing your photos on others computers.

The next step from there is getting a good display so that you can actually see all the h colors of your image in high resolution. For that I highly recommend the NEC PA Series displays. Eizo makes the best monitors in the business, but you can get a great NEC that is almost as good for a fraction of the cost which is why I use them myself.

If you decide you want the ultimate in control of your creative process then you’ll want to print yourself. For that you should check out my printing series and my eBook

Etc…

Honestly, it never ends which is both the fun part (i.e., challenge) and worst part (expense) of  photography. You’ll need to think about camera insurance, and before you know it you’ll be selling photos and looking for advice. You might even want tools to get kids to look at the camera or the perfect camera for parents. Heck, you’ll mostly likely decide that you need a new compact camera and case to replace that dreaded thing you used before your DSLR.

You might find yourself wanting to try before you buy, so check out my lens/gear rentals and when you’ve outgrown your starter camera then check out my advice for camera upgrades.

Yes, there’s a reason why my plan to only spend $500 on a camera exploded to thousands of dollars over the years, but I’m not alone.

I hope you stay with me as I document my photography journey with my articles (see the right side of this blog for the most popular ones), and you can check out my photography notebook for some of the lessons I wanted to make a note of along the way. Stay in touch here or via Twitter, Facebook, or Google+ as I post about my latest articles or on Flickr and 500px when I share some of my photos.

Good luck and welcome to the world of photography!

Ron Martinsen

Disclosure

If you make a purchase using links found in this article, I may make a commission. It doesn’t cost you a penny more (the retailers just keep the commission otherwise), but it does help sustain this blog so I can bring more articles like this and the ones found on the right side of this blog. Thanks for your support!

This article was written by my own accord and not sponsored, requested, etc… by any partner of this blog. Brands mentioned are because I believe in them and no other reason. I do create partnerships with brands I believe in to help bring you discounts where possible.