Showing posts with label D800e. Show all posts
Showing posts with label D800e. Show all posts

Friday, July 24, 2015

REVIEW: Canon 5Ds–Should You Upgrade?(Part II of II)

Canon EOS 5Ds 50.6 MP DSLR Camera
Canon EOS 5Ds 50.6 MP DSLR Camera

If you are just seeing this two part series, please go read the first part of my review entitled Canon 5Ds (Part I of II) with Unedited Sample Photos and come back here for my additional findings.

With a smaller pixel size (4.14µm vs 6.25µm) and diffraction that starts to kick in around f/7.1 (vs f/10), some will argue that the 5Ds only has one major benefit over the 5D Mark III - 2x more megapixels. Given the reality that most users will rarely print a file that full utilizes all 22.3 megapixels of the 5D Mark III (Super B/A3+ - 13x19 inches or 330x438mm), it is true that often those extra megapixels will go to waste – but they’ll still eat up your hard drive space 2x as fast (even more so if you use Photoshop). This begs the question what’s sense does it make to spend an extra $1200 (at the time this article was written) to upgrade?

For some these tradeoffs to take a step backwards from all the benefits the 5D Mark III has to offer. For others the answer to the upgrade question will be based on an emotional desire to have the latest and greatest technology Canon has to offer. The 5Ds certainly comes with plenty of bells and whistles not found on its cheaper sibling, so perhaps that reality alone might be enough for some people.

Read on to get the low down on why I both love this camera, yet I struggle to justify a valid reason to own it.

The 50 megapixel advantage


f/5.6 @ 24mm for 10 sec at ISO 100
 with Canon 11-24mm lens
Click to see the incredible sharpness and detail in this unedited in-camera JPEG image
(Apologies for the tilt)

Does resolution make a difference even when you throw away pixels?

This is the question I kept asking myself so I decided to do a basic test that anyone could do themselves if they had the gear on hand to see the advantage of the extra megapixels.

To begin I just zoomed in to 200% and observed the amount of detail in the bookshelf image taken with the 5Ds using my 11-24mm lens at 24mm at f/5.6 and ISO 100. Notice the dithering pattern in the book spine – that’s really there but only a three cameras I’ve tested have ever captured it – the A7R, D810 and 5Ds:

5Ds Crop from 200% Zoom of Original File
5Ds Crop from 200% Zoom of Original File

Now If look at the 200% capture of the same section with the 5D Mark III using the same lens, aperture and ISO and notice it is (obviously) smaller and the detail looks smeared by comparison:

5D Mark III Crop from 200% Zoom of Original File
5D Mark III Crop from 200% Zoom of Original File

If I zoom in to 300% to get roughly the same size the difference is night and day:

5D Mark III Crop from 300% Zoom of Original File
5D Mark III Crop from 300% Zoom of Original File

The 5D Mark III isn’t able to capture the dithering details on the spine or the sharpness of the letters simply because there’s not enough sensor resolution to capture it.

This isn’t rocket science, but it does prove that if you have a lens that can take advantage of the extra resolution then the 5Ds is definitely going to take advantage of it with image details you can use.

Downsizing to 4k

Next I decided to discard the extra megapixels using Photoshop CC 2015’s Image Resizing (and yes, there are better ways like using Perfect Resize) :

Canon 5Ds Image Resize to 4k
Canon 5Ds Image Resize to 4k

Here’s the same thing done to the 5D Mark III image:

Canon 5D Mark III Image Resize to 4k
Canon 5D Mark III Image Resize to 4k

Below is a table that shows the results (with image links) to before and after, but you can see the results in the screen shots above already. Again, the image with more detail resizes more nicely than the one that doesn’t which also means the file size is larger after resize.

 

Before Resize

After Resize

Canon 5Ds

8688x5792 15.3MB

3840x2560 6.24MB

Canon 5D Mark III

5760x3840 7.43MB

3840x2560 5.91MB

While this may be proving the obvious to some, it hopefully highlights to everyone that despite the pixel size disadvantage the extra megapixels come in handy when resizing your images.

So YES, even if you end up resizing your image for use on Instagram or Facebook, people WILL be able to see the difference. They won’t be able to quantify it, but the 5Ds images will appear more detailed and sharp.

Editing – The Real High Megapixel Advantage

I’ll admit that I liked some of the advantages of this camera enough that I found myself using it for some formal shots that I’ve had on my to-do list for years. When I edited these shots I really appreciated the extra pixels which helped to give Photoshop more data for gradients, shadow detail, and overall texture. This really made fixing flaws so much easier than normal because tools like the content aware patch and healing tools had more data to sample from.

Here’s an example of an image as it came out of the camera which was quite good even with its 8-bit sRGB in-camera JPEG:


In-camera JPEG Unedited – Click for Full Size
f/9 @ 70mm for 1/125 sec at ISO 100
 using 24-70mm f/2.8L II lens
The best part about a high megapixel camera is editing details as you have so much data to fix flaws with less impact on the adjacent area. The ability to zoom in at a significantly greater level for spot healing.

Anytime I edit a photo I always start with a 16-bit ProPhoto RGB Original RAW file which immediate offers more color and dynamic range than the in-camera original JPEG. Anyone who edits their photos from the RAW originals knows that this RAW advantage still yields benefits when converting an image back to a 8-bit sRGB JPEG for display on the web.  By having the extra megapixels with the 5Ds you get even more visible of benefits from your in RAW editing workflow because you have the well-known color benefits but now you also get more detail even when you downsize your image. Here’s the editing version with all of the benefits that extra megapixels and RAW data offer:


Edited Version - Click for full size
Extra resolution made correcting flaws super easy
and the RAW image had an incredible tonal range
in the background gradients and shadows

This really hit this point home for me because all of the discarded megapixels and color data still resulted in a image that had more color and detail than I’m used to seeing from my 5D Mark III. Yes, you may end up tossing all of those megapixels but the people who see your images will still see the benefits of you shooting with them versus a camera that has less resolution.

Get used to f/7.1 or lower

To avoid diffraction you’ll have to shoot at f/5.6 or less. With a camera that has such high resolution that your depth of field will be drastically reduced, this isn’t good news for landscape photographers. In the real world I found myself satisfied with the tradeoffs of using f/7.1 as you can see here in this long-exposure shot taken on tripod using a timer and mirror lockup:


f/7.1 @ 85mm for 6 sec at ISO 100
using a Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM 

As I zoom in to 100% and explore on a PA322UHD 4K display I see that I’ve got pretty decent detail of images that the naked eye can’t even notice. Here’s a few fun examples:

100% Crop of Pacific Science Center IMAX Sign
100% crop of Pacific Science Center IMAX sign

100% Crop of Crane
100% crop of crane

100% crop of buildings in the far back section of the shot
100% crop of buildings in the far back section of the shot

This started to feel like the enhance scene in Blade Runner, and made me not really want to live in downtown for a fear of an invasion of privacy by 5Ds shooters!

The super high resolution means that you get more detail at the expense of a a more shallow depth of field, but with landscapes the circle of confusion calculations work in your favor.  If you are a macro shooter, this is going to be a big problem so keep this in mind.

Patient wildlife shooters on a tripod might also be able to take advantage of both the added resolution and generous extra pixels for cropping to get closer to their subjects with high fidelity than they are currently used to enjoying. This is no sports camera, but in skillful hands amazing results are certainly possible.

Bookshelf Test

The following shots are done on a tripod with all camera default settings except I also enable RAW. The full gallery of bookshelf images can be found here, but I’ve included a few noteworthy images in this article.

I’ve already covered the sharpest aperture (f/5.6) at ISO 100 earlier in this review, so I’ll move on to a discussion about ISO. Here’s the same shot taken at the maximum native ISO:


f/5.6 @ 24mm for 1/6 sec at ISO 6400

As you zoom into 100% you can see the noise level (using the Low setting) is pretty bad and the details start to get smeared:

ISO 6400 100% Crop
ISO 6400 100% Crop

For reference again, here’s the same shot at ISO 100:

ISO 100 100% Crop
ISO 100 100% Crop

With the requirement that you have to use significantly faster shutter speeds to get sharp shots hand held, this means you’ll quickly get into high ISO’s like this where the extra resolution benefits start to fade. This is one of the big reasons why I don’t think this camera is going to be for everyone as current 5D Mark III owners will feel like the noise level is a major step backwards.

For the record, this is the same level of noise problem I saw with the Nikon D800/D810, so this isn’t a problem unique to Canon. As a result, I would NOT consider any high megapixels camera like this to be suitable for vacations, parents, travel, concert or street photography.

Real World Shots

The following images come straight from in-camera JPEG’s using the camera default noise reduction settings. Most camera settings are the default with the exception of RAW+JPEG, a desired White Balance (only Shade or AWB), and a desired focus point.  I chose to use the Standard Picture Style for all except for where noted.

Click here for a full gallery of unedited images.

All images are copyright Ron Martinsen – ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. You may not save, print, edit, modify or otherwise use any images featured in this article or the gallery without expressed written permission.


f/5.6 @ 24mm for 1/125 sec at ISO 1600
 using 11-24mm lens
This was one of my many “almost” sharp shots but the slight camera shake despite shooting at over 5x the reciprocal of the focal length. As a result you can expect that hand held shooting is pretty much out of the question for most photographers.


f/5.6 @ 24mm for 1/125 sec at ISO 200

Extreme details, no matter how gnarly, are always fun to capture with this camera


f/5.6 @ 85mm for 1/100 sec at ISO 100

 


f/5.6 @ 24mm for 25/10 sec at ISO 100

Images like this have to be seen in print or on a 4k display to be fully appreciated
as 1080p just doesn’t cut it – too much detail is lost!

See the first part of my review entitled Canon 5Ds (Part I of II) with Unedited Sample Photos for more images as well as the complete gallery. 

What about other models?

I know many of you are probably wondering about the 5Ds R about now, and I’ll cover that camera when I can finally get my review unit from B&H. I’ve also got a Sony A7R II in the queue will be reviewing it along with the 5Ds R later this year.

Until my my other reviews are ready you can go enjoy these reviews to see what I think of some of the others super high resolution cameras:

I don’t cover medium format cameras on this blog, and I don’t have any other super resolution cameras planned for review at this time (excludes models released after this article was written).

Conclusion

I can highly recommend the 5Ds for those who are doing detail critical work AND who will be using this camera with either studio lights or on a tripod. However I started this article with the question with “should you upgrade”, so I’ll finally go against the fanboys and marketplace momentum and recommend AGAINST getting this camera if you plan to use it as your primary or only camera that you shoot unsupported.

Unless you live in the dessert where you can always shoot at ISO 100 with high shutter speeds, you’ll need shutter speeds that are 3x what you are used to using (assuming you have the latest IS, else 5x+) to avoid motion blur in your hand held images. Extra resolution of blurry images will give you poor results no matter how you slice it as many former D800/D810 owners will tell you. As a result, I consider this a specialty camera for a limited audience or for those who will be using it as 2nd body to back up their lower megapixel Canon DSLR.

This advice applies to the Nikon D810 and Sony A7R II as well. High resolution is both a blessing (when used effectively) and a curse, so “don’t be that photographer” that’s blaming the camera or lens for a bunch of blurry shots that are caused by using a high resolution camera properly. Medium format shooters already know this so when you get to these resolutions you cross into a whole new world that’s not for the beginner or casual photographer! You have been warned.

Where to order

Click here to learn more or order on the 5Ds or 5Ds R on the B&H web site.

Other articles you may enjoy

If you enjoyed this article, you may also enjoy these articles about other Canon products:

Here’s also some other articles on this blog that you might enjoy:

Disclosure

If you make a purchase using links found in this article, I may make a commission. It doesn’t cost you a penny more, but it does help to support future articles like this.

Thursday, October 30, 2014

REVIEW: Nikon D750–Yeah, it’s better than my 5D Mark III (Part II of II)

In the first part of my review, I expressed how impressed I was with this camera. Despite being crippled by a mediocre kit lens for this review, I’ve been very pleased with image quality and dynamic range for the shots I’ve taken with it.

In this final installment of my review, I’ll focus more on some of the technical aspects of this camera and discuss how I feel it compares to some of the other cameras I’ve tested.

Mug Shot Test


f/8 @ 120 mm, 1/200, ISO 100

Unedited in-camera JPEG – click for the full size

Knowing that this camera has great dynamic range, I decided to put it to the torture test using a model with dark eyes and a black background just to see how many tones it could capture. As you can clearly see from above, the D750 knocked this one out of the park.

I can clearly distinguish the pupil from the iris in the eye as well as all the shades in the models hair. Even the black background shows a buttery smooth series of tones.

While this is certainly no Otus 85mm lens, I was plenty satisfied with the detail captured on the skin (sorry Julia!) and the eyelashes.

In short, this camera nailed the mugs shot test, so one could only hope the DMV will start using these – or maybe not!

Bookshelf Test


f/5.6 @ 50 mm, 1/13, ISO 12800, No Flash

Click for the original to fully appreciate the high ISO performance

Overall my testing revealed that image quality and tonal range are fantastic in the ISO 100-12,800 range. When you go into the high modes of 25,600 and 51,200 the dynamic range begins to suffer, but even with in-camera noise reduction results in a usable image.


f/5.6 @ 50 mm, 13s, ISO 100, No Flash

This is the sweet spot of the lens that I tested,
so click for the original to see the best image I could get with the kit lens

Unlike a lot of Nikon’s I’ve tested which tend to have either overly bright or dark metering, I found this camera to have a nice happy medium. With that said, I did get some unexplainable shifts in brightness and color when using auto white balance and matrix metering during my bookshelf testing. This is really my only complaint with this camera, and hopefully this is something that will sort itself out with a future firmware update.

Compared to the 5D Mark III

I own and love the Canon 5D Mark III, and without question it’s definitely one of the best Canon’s ever made. However, it is not without flaws. Do I think the Nikon has leapfrogged the 5D Mark III? YES! The overall dynamic range offered by this camera creates a wide spectrum of natural tones that is more true to life straight out of the camera than what I get out of my 5DM3. While I still prefer many features and characteristics of the Canon, for now this is the new defacto standard for parents, event and travel photographers who really want the best image quality possible.

While personally I don’t give a hoot about video from a DSLR, I still think the movie industry support around Canon probably gives it an advantage. However, I can’t imagine any D750 user being disappointed with the video performance with a sensor that is this good.

What should a 5D Mark III owner do? My advice is to save your money. Inevitably Canon will have a response and for now you have a great camera that’s not worth taking a big loss on – especially if you’ve got a good investment in lenses. Think of it a bit like you are driving the 2013 version of your dream car and your neighbor gets the 2014 model which has some nice new bells and whistles. While it sucks not to have the best product possible, you probably wouldn’t sell your car just to upgrade. I think the same philosophy applies here, so enjoy what you have and spend your money elsewhere – God knows there’s a lot of other ways to spend your money on photography gear and software, so don’t waste your money trying to keep up with the latest camera.

Skip the Kit Lens


Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5G ED VR Lens

My favorite “cheap” zoom lens for starter kits

I wasn’t a big fan of the kit lens, so I’d advise to go body only and get something else. I definitely liked the Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5G ED VR Lens that I tested with the D600 – it was surprisingly good (and cheap). The AF-S 24-70mm f/2.8G ED is the lens to have if you can afford it, so if you are just starting out I’d consider either of those as better choices over the 24-120mm.

Conclusion

If you have an investment in Nikon lenses and are wondering if it is time to upgrade your camera body, I’d say it depends. While I personally wouldn’t take a loss on a perfectly good D600/D610, I’d certainly upgrade any other Nikon besides the D800/D810 and D4/D4s up to this one – if you’ve already bought all of the high quality lenses you are ever going to buy. Great lenses make the most of any camera body, so I always recommend spending extra funds on glass before camera bodies.

With that disclaimer out of the way, owners who do upgrade are going to be delighted. Those frustrated by some of the limitations of the D600/D610 might also find it a worthwhile upgrade, despite that being an excellent camera in its own right.  I can definitely say that as a fan boy of the D600/D610, I found myself very excited to see that my minor quibbles about those cameras had been addressed leaving me with a camera that I’d probably buy if I didn’t have an investment in Canon lenses.

For those who believe DXOMark sensor scores are the word of God (and I don’t), they ranked the D750 as #6 under the D800E, D800, D600 & D610. While I’m sure in their own scientific way this makes sense to them, I can say that to my eyes in real world scenarios I find the D750 to be a overall better performer at higher ISO’s than the D800’s and about the same as the D600/D610.  As a result, I continue to say these sensor scores are non-sense in the real world so take them with a grain of salt. The D750 is a fantastic camera that will definitely not disappoint, so without reservation I highly recommend it.

Where to order

Click here to learn more or order the D750 on the B&H web site.

Other articles you may enjoy

If you enjoyed this article, you may also enjoy these:

Disclosure

If you make a purchase using links found in this article, I may make a commission. It doesn’t cost you a penny more, but it does help to support future articles like this.

Monday, January 20, 2014

REVIEW: Sony Alpha a7R Mirrorless Full-Frame 36.4MP Camera–The Mirrorless D800e?

Sony Alpha a7R Mirrorless Digital Camera
Sony Alpha a7R Mirrorless Digital Camera

When I first learned about the Sony a7R last October in New York, I was anxious to see it in action at the Sony booth (at PhotoPlus 2013). It seemed to mark the future of camera technology by being both mirrorless and full-frame with a whopping 36.4MP camera.

Upon closer inspection of the specs on this camera it becomes obvious that this camera not only sports all of the features that are endeared by Sony compact and NEX camera users, but it’s gone even farther with things like NFC (for tapping to share), apps support, native 4k TV output over HDMI, and much more.

Yes, this camera on paper is a technological wonder and others have done a pretty good job enumerating the wonders of those features in other articles. However, that isn’t what I typically focus on for my reviews. When people visit my blog to see an article they want to know “does this camera suck or is it as awesome as the fan boys say it is?”, so that is how I’ve tested it. If you want to know about how all the bells and whistles work then read the manual or a brochure because I reviewed this wondering if it would be a camera that could replace one of my DSLR’s (either now or in the future).

Sony Sonnar T* FE 35mm f/2.8 ZA Lens
Sony Sonnar T* FE 35mm f/2.8 ZA Lens

It should be noted that I was only provided with one lens for this review, the Sony Sonnar T* FE 35mm f/2.8 ZA. My findings are based off the performance of this camera with that lens, but like all interchangeable lens cameras, your performance will vary if you choose a different lens. My contact at Sony assured me that this was a top performing lens and confirmed this was a better choice than any of the current zoom offerings to see the best possible performance of this camera. As a result, I did not request to borrow any other lenses for my review.

Hands On Thoughts

Rear View with Tilt Screen
Rear View with Tilt Screen

(Sadly, you can’t do selfie’s with this screen)

In my hands, this camera reminded me a lot of the Fujifilm X-Series cameras like the X-E2 (my review). It seems solid and well built, but it also features the nice control wheels like the NEX-7 that I reviewed. Physically speaking, I had no issues with this camera, but from a usability standpoint I really hated the zoom location and lack of quick access to changing the focus point. While this camera does allow for an above average amount of customization to its controls to overcome these frustrations, it’s up to the photographer to remember what he’s reprogrammed all of the buttons to which can be confusing/cumbersome. Simply put, nearly all photographers buying $2000+ cameras will want to set their focus point manually so this should be something that is very easy to access in the default configuration.

Top View
Top View

After using this camera for a month I’m convinced that this camera was designed by really smart engineers (read Geeks) who focused so deeply on the technical marvels like NFC, Full-Frame mirrorless, etc… that they forgot to get real photographer feedback to explain to them how these things are really used. The 24 menu screens are maddening, yet the manual does little to help you understand apparently “obvious” features like with simple names like Zebra really do. Now some cameras have issues like this but looking at the feature options typically explains it, but Zebra offers Off, 70, 75, … 100, 100+ as its options – silly me, it’s so obvious what it does now right? (trick question – answer is heck no).

Simple things like Format are found on the 5th submenu of the 6th menu item (which can be accessed in 3 button presses if you go backwards) show that little concern was given about day in / day out usability. Sure the all-important exposure compensation has a knob, but there’s no built-in flash nor is there a fast way to change flash exposure compensation should you spring for a hot shoe flash.

I also found frustrating quirks and rules built into the system like the timer not wanting to work if I released the shutter button under long-exposure low light conditions. While I think the problem had something to do with the focus mode I was using during testing, even with a single flexible spot focus point I’d frequently have the camera beep to confirm focus, start the time and then immediately stop once I lifted my hand off the shutter release. Seriously, WTF?!!!!!

I’m sure there’s some great features that I never tested (like possibly the aforementioned Zebra feature) because I couldn’t easily determine what they were by using the camera or reading the printed manual. However, I try to treat all cameras equally so if I can’t figure it out it doesn’t get tested because my experience with real photographers and consumers has taught me that if I can’t figure it out then most often they won’t understand it even if they do read the online help. This reality has been great for my photography consulting business, but it’s a real testimony to the fact that many cameras are just getting too complicated and difficult to use these days.

The geek in me who has enjoyed computer programming since 1991 can’t have enough features in a camera, so this isn’t a request to Sony for less features – it’s a request to make the important stuff easy to get to and the printed manual / in-camera values helpful to geeks.

Now before the Sony fan boys skulls split over what many of the faithful followers insist is the greatest camera in the history of photography, I will say that many of the quirks I encountered can be addressed in firmware updates and reading online resources. There’s also workarounds for certain features going disabled for reasons I find less logical than on any other manufactures cameras I’ve tested.

Battery Life

I’ll also point out that despite the wealth of WiFi, NFC, etc… crap that this camera has that I have no desire to use, I didn’t have any real world problems with the battery. It’s about average to to what I’ve seen mirrorless from Fujifilm, Olympus, and Panasonic do under similar test loads that I do for my testing. Personally, I’d always keep an extra charged battery handy with any mirrorless sporting an electronic viewfinder, but I never found myself cursing this camera’s battery.

Electronic View Finder (EVF)

Of all of the EVF’s I’ve tested to date, this is by far my favorite. In fact, I hate EVF’s so bad that I typically avoid using them but for this camera I actually found myself using it more than the larger rear screen LCD. This often made me forget that this was a mirrorless (as did its loud shutter release noises) while I was out in the field. This is actually a good thing and a testimony to what great progress has been made in this area. While I still prefer a high quality optical viewfinder, this is one I could definitely live with.

After the learning curve

Once you reprogram the buttons and take the time to learn that features like Zebra are really cool (it helps you to identify overexposed areas by showing zebra stripes at your selected opacity), I came to like what Sony was trying to do with this camera. While there’s plenty of usability improvements that can be done to make this camera significantly easier to use (like a better designed Q button instead of a programmable tap to the center button by the scroll wheel), the determined user will find a workaround for almost every initially annoying quirk in this camera. It’s chock full of cool features that geeks will be getting the best pictures of their cat that you’ve ever seen!

But what about all those megapixels?

Sony Alpha a7 Mirrorless Digital Camera with FE 28-70mm f/3.5-5.6 OSS Lens
Sony Alpha a7 Mirrorless Digital Camera with FE 28-70mm f/3.5-5.6 OSS Lens

Wouldn’t 24.3MP be enough?

I was hard on the Nikon D800/D800e for having too many megapixels to be especially useful in everyday real world life. There comes a point where you capture so much data that the age old rule of 1/<focal length * crop factor> no longer gives you a shutter speed that can compensate for expected minimal camera shake. This means features like stabilization (or SteadyShot as Sony calls it) become more critical, but faster than traditional shutter speeds are also needed to freeze your subject when the megapixels get too high. As a result, my conclusion on the D800/D800e was that they were great cameras for photographers taking shots of static landscapes or those who use studio lights, but it was a terrible choice for the casual photographer who actually holds the camera in their hands under typical lighting conditions.

In my testing of this camera I had a short 35mm lens so its more forgiving than say a 200mm zoom, but it didn’t have any stabilization. My real world testing indicated that getting a steady shot using the cameras default Aperture Priority shutter speeds was challenging under low light. Perhaps this is why I was encouraged to test with a 35mm instead of a longer lens as this camera behaves like all Sony’s that I’ve tested which means it loves to be at 1/30 or 1/60 sec shutter speed in the auto modes (unless you program it otherwise). This resulted in me having so many blurry shots in real world testing that roughly 120 shots weren’t even worth putting in the gallery.

As a result of this below average performance, I’d be more inclined to advise my readers to consider the 24.3MP a7 shown above instead of the a7R if you plan to use your camera away from studio lights or off tripods. Yeah, all those extra megapixels are great if you get the perfect shot, but they are useless if they just help you to get a blurry shot during that critical moment.

MORE MEGAPIXELS are NOT a good thing for most people – especially since most people will more times than not discard megapixels more often than they have times finding themselves not having enough (and Perfect Resize can solve that problem quite well). Even 4k TV only requires 8 megapixels, so 24.3MP is plenty. I applaud Sony for acknowledging this reality by offering a a7 model for those who still want full frame mirrorless without the wasted megapixels.

Bookshelf Test

The following shots are done on a tripod with all camera default settings except I also enable RAW. The full gallery of bookshelf images can be found at http://photos.ronmartblog.com/sony/a7r, but I’ve included a few noteworthy images below. Please keep in mind that the images are not crooked – the camera is level, but the bookshelf has sagged over time due to weight so I use camera level instead of adjusting the camera for a level shot of the bookshelf.


f/2.8 @ 35 mm, 3.2s, ISO 100, No Flash

In ideal conditions (i.e., on a tripod or in studio light), this is one of the most impressive cameras I’ve ever tested. Yes, it is every bit as good as the best DSLR cameras by the competition and it blows away any cropped sensor DSLR I’ve ever tested. This camera definitely will take advantage of the best lenses you can throw at it, so image quality under the right conditions will certainly please owners of this camera – it’s very, very good.


f/2.8 @ 35 mm, 1/80, ISO 25600, No Flash, From RAW with only ACR 8.3
default processing

At ISO 25,600 the in-camera noise reduction on the JPEG’s is pretty bad, but if you take the unprocessed RAW (shown above after ACR defaults) you’ll see that it’s got lots of good data with easy to remove noise. The image below is the same file (click for full-size) with Noiseware (Tutorial) default settings. The result is a very clean file at a very high ISO – well done, Sony – now just put Noiseware in the camera and we’d be in great shape!


ISO 25600 from ACR 8.3 with Noiseware Default

Be sure to click the above images to really get an appreciation of what’s happening here at full-size. This camera passes the image quality and high ISO noise tests with flying colors. In fact, I find that it outperforms the D800 in high ISO noise performance based on my bookshelf test of that camera.

Real World Sample Images

The following images come from in-camera JPEG’s using the camera default noise reduction settings. Most camera settings are the default with the exception of RAW+JPEG, a desired White Balance, a desired focus point, and occasionally a desired creative style being used.

UPDATE: It should be noted that except the pictures of my son, nearly every image I took with this camera was taken using this setup to prevent camera shake induced motion blur.

All images are copyright Ron Martinsen – ALL RIGHTS RESERVED


f/2.8 @ 35 mm, 1/60, ISO 3200, No Flash

Got kids? Don't plan on photographing them on the fly with anything but manual settings indoors or else you'll see lots of a soft photos like this


f/5.6 @ 35 mm, 1/60, ISO 100, No Flash

Default colors and Auto White Balance (AWB) were very good


f/22 @ 35 mm, 1/60, ISO 400, No Flash

f/22 resolves nicely with this lens on this excellent sensor


f/5.6 @ 35 mm, 1/80, ISO 100, No Flash

Don’t have enough reach? Take the shot and ditch some pixels – you’ve got plenty to spare!


f/9 @ 35 mm, 1/60, ISO 5000, No Flash

Noiseware (Tutorial) on RAW images over ISO 640 is recommend


f/4 @ 35 mm, 1/160, ISO 500, No Flash

Dynamic range was very good, but not jaw dropping


f/5.6 @ 35 mm, 1/60, ISO 3200, No Flash

This camera does details very well


f/5.6 @ 35 mm, 1/60, ISO 5000, No Flash

Like a Nikon, you’ll probably go to Shade White Balance over the greener AWB (shown here)

 


f/5.6 @ 35 mm, 1/60, ISO 4000, No Flash

Auto White Balance was very accurate – using
a custom WB measurement resulted in the same colors


f/20 @ 35 mm, 30s, ISO 100, No Flash, on Tripod

My weekend hotel room offered plenty of detail for f/20 pixel peepers


f/8 @ 35 mm, 3.2s, ISO 100, No Flash

Landscape shooters will be delighted with the detail captured


f/5.6 @ 35 mm, 1/60, ISO 3200, No Flash, DRO Auto

DRO Auto needs some tweaking as it didn’t really help with the default metering mode. The Yellow flowers were blown out pretty bad (Zebra warning! <G>)

More photos can be found at the full gallery here.

Video


Be sure to view in full 1080p for the best results

I hate video, but for completeness sake I did a quick video with full auto settings to show how this camera compares to others tested in a similar manner. I found the lack of SteadyShot with this lens to be a real problem for getting a smooth video.

Conclusion

For those who are willing to learn and put up with the maddening menu system and default configuration of this camera, you will be rewarded with outstanding image quality for your photos taken on a tripod or in ideal lighting conditions (i.e., studio lights and sunny days). The landscape or studio photographer with a simple workflow is going to love this camera for the images it produces when paired with the right Zeiss lens. For that class of photographer, it’s a no compromises alternative to the DSLR that really impresses me significantly more than the Nikon D800 did. While this camera is really more of a competitor to the D800e due to its lack of a low pass filter, I really think it is in a league all of its own due to the wealth of a features it offers (many of which are typically found only on consumer cameras and smart phones).

While I personally have zero desire to own this camera due to its poor menu layout and too many megapixels for my needs, when paired with the right photographer (or any Sony fan boy) it is sure to be worth every penny of its purchase price. It’s also by far the most impressive camera I tested in 2013 (when I first started to review this camera).

I would not recommend this camera for parents as the extra megapixels will haunt you when trying to capture your child under low light conditions or if you try to shoot video without a third party video stabilization device.

Where to order

Click here to learn more or order this camera on the B&H web site. My friends at Amazon have it available here.

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Disclosure

If you make a purchase using links found in this article, I may make a commission. It doesn’t cost you a penny more, but it does help to support future articles like this.

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

REVIEW: Nikon D7100–A Mini D800E?

Nikon D7100
Nikon D7100 (Kit lens shown, but not tested)

I was a big fan of the D7000 and the D600 was my 2012 DSLR of the Year, so when I got the news that D7100 was coming out I was very excited. When I heard it went the way of the D800E and it shipped without a low pass filter then I got even more excited. I was hoping this was going to be the usable resolution equivalent to the D800E, but it’s not. Don’t get me wrong, this is a good camera with excellent image detail. However, it’s not going to dethrone the D600 as my favorite Nikon camera.

For this test I got to spend some time with a D7100 using the AF-S 24-70mm f/2.8G ED lens as the kit lens version was unavailable. Ergonomically it feels about identical to the D600 which is a good thing as that’s an excellent camera to use on a daily basis. Since the D7100 is NOT a full-frame camera it doesn’t suffer from the same compact AF point selection area as the D600 so that’s actually one thing that makes the D7100 better than the D600. The other thing that is in the favor of the D7100 is the fact that it’s about $800 cheaper (as of this writing) than the D600, so it’s a great value choice as well.

Nikon D7100 Rear View
Nikon D7100 Rear View

Overall I loved the ergonomics of the camera body and it’s vast number of external buttons all within reach (and many are programmable). The rear LCD is supposed to be higher resolution than the D600 (1,229,000 dots vs – 921,000 both 3.2”), but it sure didn’t feel like it. The new info button comes in handy as well for learning more information about the vast features in the menu of this camera.

Overall, it’s a great body that think anyone would enjoy – especially after you get used to the features / quirks of the Nikon system.

Auto Focus Performance


I suck at shooting birds, but the D7100 doesn’t!
f/2.8 @ 70 mm, 1/1250,ISO 2000

One area where the D7100 really seemed to excel was in its Auto Focus performance. Simply put, it’s outstanding – one of the best that I’ve tested – and a lot easier to use than the D4 system. In fact I quickly got so used to how good it was that I found myself trying to find a way to make it fail, and it handled most tasks that I threw at it without any issue.

I’m a horrible bird shooter so when I coincidentally ran into a big group of birds I just upped my shutter speed in M(annual) and put the D7100 to the test. Even in AF-S mode it was nailing everything I threw at it. In AF-C it did a great job of not getting confused when obstructions approached like in the shot below (which honestly would trip my 1D Mark IV up):


This is scary good AF! I was looking the opposite direction when I heard something.
I turned, shot the frames and this bird was gone. It even didn’t get tripped up by the branches!
f/2.8 @ 62 mm, 1/2000,ISO 100

If you shoot sports or moving objects like birds, cars, etc… then you will REALLY enjoy the AF system on this camera. It’s by far the easiest system I’ve used and it gives my 1D X a run for its money. I can also say with confidence that the D7100 AF system performed significantly better than the D4 that I tested. I wasn’t expecting this when I was out testing this camera, but if I was a D4 owner I’d be demanding that Nikon put this mojo in a D4 firmware upgrade or in a new D4s.

The frames per second is useless unless you shoot JPEG only with fast SD card’s, but if given a choice I’d rather accurate AF than FPS any day.

Real World Sample Images

As always, these images ALL RIGHTS RESERVED (yes, even the lame ones <g>). You may not save, edit, print, redistribute or otherwise use them without expressed written permission.

The full set of images is available at http://www.ronmartinsen.com/nikon/d7100, but here’s a few noteworthy images. Click the image for the original and view using the gallery to see EXIF information. All major settings were camera defaults except Active D Lighting was set to Auto. I was using Auto ISO (full range) and typically AF-S with a single point on my intended subject.


I have lots of examples where the shadow detail like this is excellent
f/2.8 @ 24 mm, 1/125,ISO 100, No Flash, AWB (Warm)


Not bad, but the X20 shot of the same scene was just about as good!
f/4 @ 70 mm, 1/1250,ISO 100, No Flash


Curious about dynamic range? This pretty much exercises the whole gamut!
f/5.6 @ 38 mm, 1/200,ISO 800, No Flash, Shade WB


Curious about bokeh or depth of field? Here’s a start.
f/4.5 @ 28 mm, 1/400 (Windy),ISO 800, No Flash, AWB (Warm)


This is hard to appreciate small, but a letter size print of this has wonderful detail
f/6.3 @ 40 mm, 1/200,ISO 800, No Flash


I was happy with the in-camera color as a starting point in this shot
f/4 @ 27 mm, 1/500,ISO 100, No Flash, AWB (Warm)


f/2.8 @ 28 mm, 1/400,ISO 100, No Flash, AWB (Warm)
Good light? Gorgeous results


Really bad light? Still pretty darn good results!
f/2.8 @ 27 mm, 1/1250,ISO 100, No Flash, AWB (Warm)


I had to shoot –1 EV, and ended up with very nice reds here!
f/4 @ 70 mm, 1/320,ISO 100, No Flash

d
One of the many examples where the AF system
just did the right thing like it was reading my mind
f/2.8 @ 70 mm, 1/125,ISO 125, No Flash


Another example of excellent shadow detail, pleasing bokeh and neutral colors
f/4 @ 62 mm, 1/400,ISO 100, No Flash


The dynamic range is so good here that it feels exactly like it felt in real life
f/4.5 @ 24 mm, 1/125,ISO 110, No Flash


This is one of those impossible shots you know won’t work, but you take anyway.
I was actually pleased with how well it captured the scene.
f/6.3 @ 60 mm, 1/250,ISO 100, No Flash

About Real World Sample Images

I sometimes am asked, “what do you mean by ‘real world’ sample images?” Some have even taken a poke and said “does that mean photos that suck?”

The truth is that as a consumer one of the things that has always annoyed me is when I see the images from a camera on a web site that look fantastic, but when I get it home and use it under normal everyday conditions the photos just don’t have the same “oomph”. As a blogger  I began to investigate “why” there were these discrepancies and I discovered three things:

  1. Some sites doctor their photos so what you are seeing is an edited image that used the camera in question, but that’s not an image you’ll really ever get out of the camera. To me this is useless.
  2. Some sites only show you photos taken in beautiful surroundings and lighting conditions. While these may be real images, they aren’t the type of image the average person will be taking. This leads to massive disappointment when you get home and are shooting around the house in very difficult lighting and non-ideal locations and think “gosh, this camera sucks compared to what I saw on the web”.

All of the images I feature for all my camera reviews are only impacted by the in-camera processing which is also what you see on your camera’s LCD (even when you shoot RAW). There is NO post-processing and what you see is what you can expect to get. While I do try to get some images in nice settings so you can see what a nice photo will be like, I also work hard to stress the camera to see how it performs under difficult situations (i.e., backlight, mid-day sun highlights, tungsten lighting, indoors with high ISO, etc…).

It’s my opinion that real world shots really tell you what you want to know about a camera and keep you from being surprised when you get it home. It does mean that I have to take some criticism for shots that aren’t always cropped perfectly (what you see is EXACTLY what came out of the camera), and I show image failures. However, my goal is to be the place that you can trust for a REAL assessment of a camera and a place you can trust.

Video

I didn’t test video on this camera, so I have no comment.

Bookshelf Test

Bookshelf tests are conduction on a tripod with mirror lockup and camera default settings. I did turn D-lighting on and these are the actual in-camera JPEG’s (Fine) with no external modifications.

NOTE: Even though I had the lens set to the 24mm mark, all shots report as 26mm in this article.


f/2.8 @ 26 mm, 1s, ISO 200,No Flash

Excellent dynamic range is obvious – I was very impressed right out of the camera. Despite supporting ISO 100, I felt ISO 200 gave the best image quality. The overall best shot I got was at the 24-70’s sweet spot of 35mm @ f/5.6 and ISO 200:


f/5.6 @ 35 mm, 4s, ISO 200, No Flash

That, boys and girls, is goonie goo goo good! The resolution here rivals what I saw with my D800 and D600 testing, but I didn’t have an EXACT comparison so I will not show it here. I can certainly say that in terms of image quality, this is up there with the best of the best. This camera has insane amounts of resolution that you’ll only appreciate on your computer as the camera LCD (despite all of its megapixels) just doesn’t do it justice.


f/10 @ 26 mm, 1/13,ISO 25600

High ISO Performance

The high ISO performance that Nikon’s are legendary for just isn’t there with this camera, so I put it in the same camp as the D800 where you should try to avoid ISO’s above 3200 when possible. The High ISO modes (12,800 and up) are nasty useless to me.


Raw (Lightroom 4.4) vs In-camera JPEG Fine (camera default settings) Comparison

If you had to shoot in the higher ISO’s you’ll be a lot better off turning off the in-camera noise reduction and using Noiseware to clean your image up. The higher ISO creates so much noise that Nikon’s noise reduction destroys the detail.

HDR Mode

Mouse over to see NO HDR, mouse out to see IN-CAMERA HDR
D7100, f/8 @ 26 mm, 15s, ISO 100,No Flash, HDR High (in-camera HDR)
Mouse over to see non-HDR and mouse out to see in-camera HDR version

I was very satisfied with the HDR mode, but terribly disappointed with the fact that you only get a JPEG result of the HDR series. On my 5D Mark III I can still do HDR while shooting in RAW and all the intermediate files are kept so it makes it fun to use HDR to see what the camera will get, but you still have the real RAW files for Photomatix or HDR Efex Pro 2. With the D7100 that is NOT the case, so people who are serious about HDR are going to have to either decide to go JPEG only and except the file the camera gives you OR ignore this feature and just shoot bracketed shots with RAW files (recommended).

With that disclaimer out of the way, I was very impressed with the in-camera results. Except for the HDR High* setting (example), all of the other settings seemed very realistic / natural feeling. What’s more, the Auto setting did a great job but is conservative to avoid that overdone HDR feeling. I can see this being a useful feature for casual consumer shooting when RAW files aren’t going to be needed or desired (rare).

Conclusion

This is a very good camera. It’s a worthy successor to the D7000 which it not only surpasses but literally obliterates in terms of overall image quality. While the in-camera noise levels are pretty good, I still feel like I prefer the higher ISO noise handling of the last generation of Nikon cameras. It just seems that Nikon pushed the megapixels so far on this camera that it followed the same pattern as the D800 where more resolution equals more noise.

For the price, this is a very nice camera for Nikon shooters – especially those who are interested in staying in the DX Format family. For bird hunters on a budget, I’d highly recommend it for the AF performance but the frames per second are going to drive you insane. Nikon advertises 6 fps, but that is only if you are shooting JPEG only I think as RAW felt like about 3 fps.

This camera didn’t capture my instant love like the D7000 or the D600 did, and I’m not sure why. Perhaps I’m just getting numb from the very good cameras I’ve been testing lately. I thought I might love this one so much that I’d get one, but I find myself being happy with the cameras I already own. I still highly recommend this camera for existing Nikon owners looking to upgrade (including D700 and D300s owners), and I think most will be very satisfied with its performance.

Where to order

Click here to order the Nikon D7100 on the B&H web site. Adorama may also still have some bodies (only) in stock here.

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Disclosure

If you make a purchase using links found in this article, I may make a commission. It doesn’t cost you a penny more, but it does help to support future articles like this.