Showing posts with label Plug-in Suite. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Plug-in Suite. Show all posts

Thursday, July 11, 2013

REVIEW: onOne Software Perfect Resize 7.5

onOne Software Perfect Resize 7.5
onOne Software Perfect Resize 7.5

One product that I use often, but don’t talk much about on the blog is onOne Software’s Perfect Resize. However, it’s funny when I talk to people about resizing images because they immediately wonder why I don’t just use Photoshop or Lightroom?

In this article, I’ll show you why. This was a recommendation in my Printing 101 eBook, and it still remains a product that I use regularly when printing.

Perfect Effects 7.5 vs Photoshop CS6

For this test, I took an image that I had exported out of Lightroom at 1800x1200 pixels. I did some minor edits using Perfect Effects and then I resized it. The resize on the top was done in Photoshop CS6 with 16x24” @ 360 ppi (8640x5760) using Bicubic Automatic. For the naysayers, yes I did try Bicubic Sharper and Bicubic Smoother as well as the other modes. The best choice was Bicubic Smoother which seemed to match what Bicubic Automatic had done.

Click on the photo to view this at 100%
Photoshop CS6 (top) & Perfect Resize 7.5 (bottom)
Click on the photo to view this at 100%

On the bottom was the Epson Resin Coated 16x24 preset with sharpening turned OFF. The reason why I turned off sharpening is because I knew that this would be used on the web so the extra sharpening required to make a print look its best makes online images look way over sharpened. It also provides an apples to apples comparison since Adobe doesn’t do any sharpening after resizing either.

Now you don’t really even need to click on the photo to tell that Perfect Resize won this battle hands down.

Perfect Resize 7.5 vs Lightroom 4.4

Click on the photo to view this at 100%
Lightroom (top) & Perfect Resize 7.5 (bottom)
Click on the photo to view this at 100%

Lightroom was actually worse than Photoshop which really surprised me as I expected it would be the same as Bicubic Automatic. However, it appears that Lightroom uses the Bicubic Sharper algorithm which resulted in an even softer resized image. 

Perfect Resize 7.5 vs Alien Skin Blowup 3

Click on the photo to view this at 100%
Alien Skin Blow Up 3 (top) & Perfect Resize 7.5 (bottom)
Click on the photo to view this at 100%

Long-time readers of my blog know that I used to be a huge fan of Alien Skin Blowup because it used to beat older versions of Genuine Fractals (the predecessor to Perfect Resize). However, in 2013 the latest version of both products – with sharpening and grain enhancements turned off – proves that Perfect Resize 7.5 is the king of resizing. When you look at the images above there’s no comparison – Perfect Resize is the hands down winner.

But wait, did you try…

Any time I do this type of article, I immediately get people who freak out and say but you didn’t do X that’s why you say the results that you did. For example, some Photoshop purists suggest that resizing must be done in increments rather than directly from one size to the next. However, my sources at Adobe have told me that is exactly what Photoshop does under the covers for the last several releases, so that won’t yield better results. Sure enough, when I tried that myself I didn’t notice any improvement.

With respect to Mac versus Windows – I did not observe any benefit to one operating system over the other.

I know I’ll get questions like “but you should try Lightroom 5, or Adobe Photoshop CC”. However, I encourage you to try your own images using the methodology I’ve applied and see if it makes a difference. To my eyes, Perfect Resize always comes out ahead when upscaling images. Downscaling sometimes favors Photoshop, but not always.

Don’t believe me? Download the free trial of any of the products mentioned and do your own comparisons on your own images. For the best results, downsize your image using Lightroom or Photoshop to something manageable (like 1920 x 1200) then upscale to something like 16x24” @ 360ppi. This gives you a better idea of how good the resizing algorithm really is!

Keep in mind that not all images are created equally so some easy to resize images might produce identical results, and some complex images may produce slightly different results. I chose the image I did for my testing because it’s pretty much as hard as it gets for resizing real-world photography images.

It should also be noted that I did use a variety of images in my testing and got similar results. For time reasons, I have only included one example image to illustrate the summary of my findings. If you would like the actual resized images then contact me and I’m happy to provide a link.

Conclusion

If you care about the quality of how your images are resized (and you should if you print), then Perfect Resize is the way to go. When scaling images down to web resolution it’s less important what you use because pixels are lost. However, when upscaling pixels have to be added so the quality of the software makes a huge difference, and Perfect Resize is still the king!

If I could only own one onOne Software product, this would have to be it. I highly recommend it!

For those coming from older versions you’ll find this version is significantly faster, more robust (i.e., I’ve had no crashes), and it scales up to 400% very nicely (i.e., usable in printing when images are viewed at appropriate viewing distance).

My only gripe about this product is that you have to pre-crop your image to the desired aspect ratio before using Perfect Resize because it will only remove pixels on cropping – it won’t add bars (excluding the Gallery Wrap feature which is pretty awesome if you do wraps).

More Information

Click here to learn more or order the latest version of Perfect Resize. This page provides more info on product features and versions available. This product can run stand alone, so Adobe products are not required.

I don’t have any special discounts for them anymore because onOne Software stopped doing that due to coupon abuse. However, I do have this special deal for those who decide they want to get the whole suite:

Nik Software Owners: Get onOne Perfect Photo Suite 7 for 50% off

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Disclosure

If you make a purchase using links found in this article, I may make a commission. It doesn’t cost you a penny more, but it does help to support future articles like this.

NOTE: This site requires cookies and uses affiliate linking to sites that use cookies.

If you enjoyed this article, please support future articles like this by making a donation or saving money by using my discount coupon codes. Either way, your support is greatly appreciated!

This blog is intended for freelance writing and sharing of opinions and is not a representative of any of the companies whose links are provided on this site.

The opinions provided are of Ron Martinsen alone and do not reflect the view of any other entity

Monday, April 15, 2013

Ask Ron: Do I need anything besides the Nik Collection to edit my photos?

Gyeongbokgung Palace in Nothing But Nik Collection
Gyeongbokgung Palace HDR in Nothing But Nik Collection

Gyeongbokgung Palace using multiple plug-ins
Gyeongbokgung Palace HDR using multiple plug-ins

With the great deal on the Nik Collection (click here) that’s everybody has been taking advantage of, I have been getting questions about the collection and where other products fit in. One of the most common questions is:

Can I do everything with just the Nik Collection?

The answer that is yes and no.

Here’s the thing – we all know that in theory you can do anything a third party add-in does in Photoshop by itself, so “technically” you don’t need any plug-ins. However, the reality is that many effects are hard to create and some are just so easy using plug-ins that it doesn’t make sense to roll your own. As a result we buy plugins to both make our lives easier and to add new tricks to our toolbox. 

What I’ve found is that the more tools that I have in that toolbox, the more I tend to use them which varies the outcome of how I edit a photo. Honestly if I used the same software and edited the same photo twice I’d probably have some variation (just like if you have two photographers photograph the same exact subject at the same time),  but I tend to vary more when I add more editing tools into my workflow.

Here’s the example images I used to test this theory using these three exposures:

Original 3 Images
Original 3 Images (-2, 0, +2 EV) Metered off the sky for the 0 Ev exposure
Canon 1D X, f/10 @ 28 mm, ISO 1000, No Flash

Since I wasn’t happy with any of the bracketed exposures I decided to do an HDR which was prefect for this test since the Nik Collection includes HDR Efex Pro 2 which did well in my HDR Comparison article. I also had noise since this required ISO 1000, so it also gave me a chance to use Dfine in one and my favorite product – Noiseware in the other. 

My restricted to Nik only workflow

Here’s how my layers palette ended up for the mostly Nik only version after using HDR Efex Pro (on the Background layer – after tone mapping):

image
Nik Collection by Google ONLY*

I have an asterisk here because I allowed myself to use Photoshop features like masking and the Photo Filter (for the dull sky to give it some nice blue color), but beyond that and standard healing brush stuff to clean sensor spots – this was an all Nik workflow for the first image in this article.

The workflow was basically HDR Efex, followed by noise removal with Dfine, then clean up some sensor spots. I then did some pre-sharpening on my clean base image using Sharpener Pro followed by some selective adjustments with Viveza. I warmed up the image with Brilliance / Warmth and then made some contrast adjustments using Pro Contrast – both from Color Efex. I then did a little more corrective work with Viveza and then used Silver Efex to create a low opacity layer to just give my midtones some more oomph (I do this quite often). Finally I didn’t like the sky color compared to the non-Nik only one so I used the same photo filter as below from Photoshop. I finished up with Sharpener Pro for the final creative sharpening.

Using whatever I wanted (my natural workflow)

Without any limitations, here’s how I processed this particular photo with all my plug-ins at my disposal. I did forget to try out Topaz Adjust which I use quite often, but it was getting late and I just forgot. That said, I’m satisfied with the results, so here’s how I got there:

image
Mixed Plugins starting with Photomatix

The big differences here was that I started by using Photomatix to do my HDR, then I brought that into Photoshop where I used Noiseware – my favorite noise reduction product. I was a little unhappy with the color cast so I used a white balance technique I learned in Welcome to Oz 2.

I made a little curves adjustment and then went to the Color Efex Skylight filter to give my image some warmth, but I used U-Point controls to remove the effect from the sky. I had forgot to clean my sensor spots, so I just did that here.

I then made the sky blue using the Photo Cooling Filter #82 that comes with Photoshop and then I worked on the sky issues I got from Photomatix. I then used my favorite filter, Tonal Contrast to give the image some nice color and detail. I warmed it up a bit more with the Brilliance and Warmth Filter. I then went to Perfect Photo Suite and used the Red Enhancer filter in Perfect Effects to give it that extra pop that makes it stand out from the Nik only version.

I finished up with some sharpening using PhotoKit just to mix things up.

Conclusion

The net result here is that I used different products and got different results. There’s so many variables involved that I don’t think this proves that one method is better than the other – they are just different. I’m satisfied with both versions, but I like the mixed products version better (and it was the one I did first).

To answer the question head on, I don’t think that you necessarily NEED any additional plugins after you have the Nik Collection. It’s a great group of products and you can see that I used some in both workflows. In fact, on any given image I might have used more Nik products (especially Viveza). However, I like the ability to use my favorite noise reduction software and explore different plug-ins. In this example I didn’t use too many, but very often I’ll use Portraiture with people and Topaz Adjust with pretty much any shot that doesn’t feature people.

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Disclosure

If you make a purchase using links found in this article, I may make a commission. It doesn’t cost you a penny more, but it does help to support future articles like this.

NOTE: This site requires cookies and uses affiliate linking to sites that use cookies.

If you enjoyed this article, please support future articles like this by making a donation or saving money by using my discount coupon codes. Either way, your support is greatly appreciated!

This blog is intended for freelance writing and sharing of opinions and is not a representative of any of the companies whose links are provided on this site.

The opinions provided are of Ron Martinsen alone and do not reflect the view of any other entity

Thursday, June 9, 2011

Guest Blog: onOne PhotoTools and FocalPoint Tutorial by Brian Matiash

I've invited Brian Matiash to do a little demo for you today while I’m offline teaching with Bryan Peterson at his Seattle Workshop. I hope you enjoy and would love to hear if you’d like to see more videos like these from onOne or other software companies.


Play in HD

I want to thank Ron for giving me the opportunity to share this quick screencast video showing how I use two of seven products in the onOne Software Perfect Photo Suite family to elevate the look at feel of my image.

I shoot a lot of UrbEx photography and have been fortunate to get access to some pretty funky places. As you'd probably expect, most of the time, the only light that you have is either coming from your headlamp or from the available ambient light that makes its way in. Not much in terms of electricity here.

In some cases, though, the light coming in is in such stark contrast to the darkness all around that the best way to capture all of the detail is to use HDR tone-mapping. And that's exactly what I did - but I did so only to get a good representative foundation image.

From there, I used PhotoTools to stylize the image and give it a specific look. I wanted to accentuate the grossness of the scene.

Finally, I wanted to control where the viewer's eyes will spend the most time, so I used FocalPoint to create a shallow plane of focus by simulating a fast lens.

I was really happy with the end result and I hope you take some helpful tips away from the screencast.

If you have any questions, please email me at bmatiash@ononesoftware.com. You can also visit my personal Photoblog at http://www.brianmatiash.com.

Thanks again, Ron!

Special Offer

Save on ALL onOne Software products, including Perfect Layers (included free with Perfect Photo Suite) . Visit the Discount Coupon Code page for the code and more details. 

See my review of PhotoTools here as well as these other onOne Software reviews:

Disclaimer

I invited onOne Software to demo these products for my readers who have already purchased these products, and for those curious about how these products work. Like all of my articles, if you purchase using the links in my article I may get a commission. Thanks for supporting this blog by using my links when ordering!

NOTE: This site requires cookies and uses affiliate linking to sites that use cookies.

If you enjoyed this article, please support future articles like this by making a donation or saving money by using my discount coupon codes. Either way, your support is greatly appreciated!

This blog is intended for freelance writing and sharing of opinions and is not a representative of any of the companies whose links are provided on this site.

The opinions provided are of Ron Martinsen alone and do not reflect the view of any other entity

Friday, December 17, 2010

REVIEW: onOne Software PhotoTools 2.6

I’m a busy guy so it’s been a while since I’ve had a chance to do a review on . The last version I reviewed was PhotoTools 2.0 Professional back in June 2009, so this is an update that is looonnng overdue.

If you read my last review I had a lot of rants and raves but more importantly the software had a lot of bugs so I ultimately stopped using it. That’s a shame because I know that onOne Software is a great company who listens to customer feedback and tries hard to make great products, but I think that 2.0 came out before it was ready.

I’m happy to report that this version, at least on my 64-bit Windows 7 based systems and my MacBook Pro seem to be very reliable and more importantly – very fast! I had some troubles when I used 1.0 and 2.0 so the improvement can be directly attributed to a lot of great work by the onOne Software team so I congratulate them for getting over the growing pains of building a new and complex product.

Installation

Overall the installation went fairly smoothly for me. However, I did hit one issue on one of my machines (not all) that caused this “Unknown error: -65” dialog to display when I ran any onOne Software product:

clip_image002

After a quick email to onOne Software I found out that this error was resolved by using the instructions at http://www.ononesoftware.com/support/1269/. It turns out that I didn’t have .net 4.0 installed and that was required. While I would have liked their setup program to have detected this issue and ran the update for me, it was a pretty painless process and I was up and running with no major headaches after that. In fact, you may already have this update and not even see this problem which is very easy to fix.

I should note that on my Lenovo W701ds Windows 7 system and my MacBook Pro I did not have any problems – they both just worked right out of the box. I am including this note in case you hit it too so you won’t have any delay in getting going again.

What’s New

Here’s some of the new feature’s you’ll find in this version:

  • NEW! Portrait photographers get a new Blemish Removal brush.
  • NEW! Includes new effects designed specifically to enhance HDR photos.
  • NEW! Includes over a dozen new texture overlays.
  • NEW! Over 12 new effects added including new black & white effects.

Example: Editing a Portrait

While you can use this product to edit landscapes, architecture, etc… I thought I’d start by editing a portrait that was in bad need of some help. In the table below you can see that the original has tons of problems, but I started by fixing the white balance in Lightroom by clicking on the grout in between the tiles to get rid of the orange cast (thank goodness I shot in Raw!).

This image was shot at ISO 1000 so I went ahead and ran Imagenomic Noiseware to get rid of the noise. I had tried the noise reduction in PhotoTools, but it appears to be the same as what you find in Photoshop which means it sucks. In my Noise Reduction Series I compared various noise reduction products and Photoshop wasn’t even in the game, and even with CS5 it has a long way to go to catch up to Noiseware.

I decided to try a few techniques to fix this photo. I’ll discuss them more in a moment, but you can see the final results here. When you hover over the text in the bottom row of the table below, the image will switch to the method that you are hovering over. I’ve listed them in the order in which I liked the results. You may click the image or the text to get a larger version to examine the differences (recommended).

Original @ ISO 1000 and White Balance accidentally set to 5100K

Hover over the text below to change to a different version


Magic Portrait Fixer Auto Portrait Fixer PhotoTune 3

NOTE: I did use Sharpener Pro on the first two images after I was done editing them

Magic Portrait Fixer

PhotoTools 2.6 on Mac OS X 10.6.5 and Photoshop CS5 64-bit

This is a filter featured when I typed “Portrait” into the search box to filter down the dizzying array of choices in PhotoTools. I ran this one and it actually adds several filters to the stack. You can see which ones when you click on the image above for a larger size, but it is worth nothing that I masked out the changes to the lips on the Turbo Boost layer and I masked out the hair on the Auto Skin Smoother layer that PhotoTools creates in its stack. I also played around with the fade on several of the layers until I was happy with the final results (not shown above).

Dynamic Light Filter

I thought this effect darkened up the face to much so I went ahead and applied the Dynamic Light Filter which uses the spider tool like you would find in FocalPoint to allow for a little more light on the face which is very much like the effect that Vincent Versace teaches in his book Welcome to Oz, but with a lot less hassle. I loved this feature and the spider tool was a great way to make this adjustment very fast!

With this enhancement and the changes I made to the layers, I was very happy with the results I achieved very quickly with the Magic Portrait Fixer filter.

I should note that I finished this image off with Display sharpening using Sharpener Pro as I found it to be the better tool for sharpening than what I found in PhotoTools. However, I’ll make the disclaimer that I’m still getting reacquainted with this product again so if I find something better that is built in I’ll be sure to report back.

Auto Portrait Fixer

Mouse over to see the mask, mouse out to see the normal window. Click to see a larger version.
PhotoTools 2.6 on Windows 7 and Photoshop CS4 64-bit

Here I tried the Auto Portrait Fixer which is a little less aggressive. Once again I masked out the eyebrows and hair on the Auto Skin Smoother layer using the Masking brush. If you hover over the image above you can see the mask it applied. I liked the results and think they are very good, but the Magic Portrait Fixer version has some extra enhancements like Selective Focus that help to control the viewers eye.

All in all, I’d say this is a good filter that I can see myself using, but for this exercise I favored the more heavy handed Magic Portrait Fixer filter.

I should note that the for the final image for this one I did use Sharpener Pro as I had done in the photo above.

PhotoTune 3

For kicks and giggles I thought I’d see what would happen if I just used the People wizard of PhotoTune. Overall the results were okay, but nothing like the other two. PhotoTune is easy and great for the beginner, but I like PhotoTools way better for enhancing my images. 

I did not use Sharpener Pro on this one as the final step is sharpening so I didn’t feel it made sense to sharpen again.

Add a Frame with PhotoFrame 2.6

I was having a lot of fun playing around with the software inside onOne Software’s Perfect Photo Suite that I ended up doing something I rarely do – I added a frame to my final shot.

To do this I just went to the File menu and chose Automate PhotoFrame 2.6 and it brought up the library window. From there I typed film and chose one of the film frames. Since this is a snapshot I thought it was the perfect frame for the shot. Here’s some of the choices I had available, but it was pages of really cool options in this window:


It is easy to preview tons of great choices
with this brilliant user interface!

After I chose my frame I moved my image around and scaled it a bit smaller so that it would fit nicely in the film strip without being so heavily cropped as was the case in the default scenario. Fortunately I can do this quite easily in the PhotoFrame UI and it takes care of modifying my image and canvas to accommodate everything in Photoshop. This user-interface is very powerful and SUPER fast and reliable in this release:


Resize your image here and PhotoFrame takes care of the rest
(NOTE: Image shown is not from the final image used below)

The cool thing is that PhotoFrame gives you lots of options about how your frame can be applied but my favorite is this mode where the frame is separate from the image. In addition I can edit the layer mask to paint in only parts of the frame effect which is really cool when you want ragged edge frames. Here’s what my image looked like:

image
This could have been done in the main
image PSD but I broke it out to make
it easy to read here.

In just a matter of a couple minutes I had a fun frame and a great time creating it.

Conclusion

Mouse over to see before, mouse out to see after
The Final Result
(Mouse in and out to see before & after)

The slogan for Perfect Photo Suite is “software that gets you back to shooting”, and I think that is a very accurate claim. I spent about 5 minutes in each filter experimenting with it and then another 2 minutes making the frame, so with little effort on my part I got a huge improvement (hover over above to see the before image) in less than 30 minutes. I’m very happy with the results and the improved performance and reliability will get me back to trying the onOne suite of products more often. I’m jazzed and ready to go edit some more images!

Special Offer

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Visit my Discount Coupon Code page to see my latest special offer details for onOne Software. As of the time I am writing this offer they are offering $100 off the Perfect Photo Suite until December 31st, 2010. There’s also upgrade options (including a free upgrade for some) if you are a previous owner. Click here to see the latest offerings by onOne Software including a NEW special offer on Perfect Photo Suite!

Disclosure

onOne Software has provided me with an evaluation copy of all of their products for my review. I may get a commission if you purchase using the links in this article, so I appreciate your show of support by using the links on this blog when ordering.

NOTE: This site requires cookies and uses affiliate linking to sites that use cookies.

If you enjoyed this article, please support future articles like this by making a donation or saving money by using my discount coupon codes. Either way, your support is greatly appreciated!

This blog is intended for freelance writing and sharing of opinions and is not a representative of any of the companies whose links are provided on this site.

The opinions provided are of Ron Martinsen alone and do not reflect the view of any other entity

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

HDR Workshop DVD by Trey Ratcliff / StuckInCustoms.com

 
If you want to create HDR images
that don’t suck, read this article!

*** NOTE: This product is no longer sold, but you can get similar products here ***

As much as the subject has grabbed my interest, I haven’t fully embraced HDR and tone mapping as I’ve rarely been happy with the results that come out of the various HDR products I’ve tried. They are good products and I’ve seen others use them with great effectiveness, but honestly most of mine have seriously sucked. Of course, there’s tons of horrible HDR images out on the web with grey/black skies on sunny days, oversaturated colors that make me reach for my sunglasses, and some with so much texture and noise that they feel like the apocalypse is near.

I’ll admit with all of this bad stuff other there, I’ve kinda disassociated myself away from HDR as I wanted to avoid being shunned by the growing mass of the population that has a total disdain for HDR and is proud to let he world know about it. However, I recently had the pleasure of watching all four of Trey Ratcliff’s HDR Workshop DVD’s and I was pleasantly surprised, Trey has evolved  (as a post-processor) to create modern day HDR images that some might wonder if they are HDR at all. Put a different way, he’s creating some great stuff that are neither radioactive nor grungy so I believe their appeal will be more broadly accepted. His techniques as to how he creates his images has evolved, but much of the fundamentals he applies today he’s applied in the past, so the real point is that you can use the techniques of these DVD’s to improve your Photoshop skill set even if you absolutely hate HDR images!

So is this a HDR DVD or Photography/Photoshop Fundamentals DVD?

I’d actually argue this DVD is equally both. It is definitely a series that shows you the value of shooting multiple exposures, and if those multiple exposures are bracketed then you can do some really cool composites to create a great image. From this standpoint you can use what Trey shows to remove tourists, and fix hot spots, even if you never fire up an HDR image processor. However, the goal of this series is to show you how to make great HDR shots, so naturally you’ll see plenty of Photomatix in action.

The gist of Trey’s secret sauce really boils down to this:

  1. Collect a bracketed set of JPEG images of your subject (which you can create from Lightroom, Canon DPP, Capture NX2, etc…).
  2. Combine and tone map these once (or sometimes twice) in Photomatix.However, this step could be optional for some and the other steps would still apply.
  3. Use Bridge to load some or all of the images from step 1 into layers along with the output of step 2.
  4. Use layer masks to combine elements from each of the images into one final composite image that is visually closer to the dynamic range of the eye rather than the limitations of the dynamic range of the camera (hence the value of HDR software in step 2).
  5. Apply filters by Nik Software, Topaz Labs or onOne Software as desired to add visual pop (a step that the anti-HDR crowd might frown upon if you aren’t careful).
  6. Reduce the noise (for some this may occur as step 5, others may occur after) using third party solutions instead of Photomatix. See my noise reduction series for why I agree with his decision to use Noiseware.
  7. Sharpen to your favorite output target (i.e., web, print, etc…) using Nik Software’s Sharpener Pro (easy) or Photoshop’s USM filter (complex).

All of this sounds pretty easy, but it’s fun to watch a master at work and see how he accomplishes step 4. Each image offers unique challenges, and Troy handles them very well. This is the real value of this DVD, because even if you have ninja Photoshop skills – you may pick up on some cool tricks that you can apply on your own work either using Trey’s method directly or a derivative that accomplishes the same thing more efficiently.

Is this for Photoshop, Lightroom, Aperture or Elements?

In this series Trey always exports his RAW’s via Lightroom, but he mostly uses Lightroom as a image organizing storage tool. He uses Bridge as a tool to do merge into layers (which theoretically should be doable as a export action in Lightroom). After this its all Photomatix and Photoshop, so the point here is that if you don’t have a tool that can do layer masking and change opacity on those layers, then your aren’t going to be able to apply the techniques shown in the series.

DVD Walkthrough

This series is broken up in to two editions. The three disc Basic Edition and the four disc Premium Edition, so the first three discs of both editions are identical. I’ll start with my thoughts on those below and finish up with disc four which is exclusive to the Premium Edition, and why you should care about that last disc. With that in mind, here’s my thoughts on the series discs:

Disc 1

This disc is comprised of seven chapters, each of which are described below. Of all the discs in the series, I initially felt this was the least useful.However, by the end I saw the value in the first disc – especially when you have the fourth disc from the premium edition. Here’s my chapter by chapter thoughts:

  • Trey’s Welcome Message – I’ll be straight up and admit that I was very disappointed when I watched this because I wasn’t expecting this series to be a fairly unedited video capture of his Austin HDR Workshop (which cost $1495, so by comparison this series is a great deal!) at The Driskill Hotel. However, when I stopped and thought for a few minutes, it dawned on me that is exactly what the series is titled – the HDR Workshop, so I tried to get over my surprise and watch the series based on the most important thing – its content.
  • Class introduction – Here Trey has a neat exercise where he points out how our brain plays games with us by showing how the same exact color can look like two entirely different colors based on them being in the sun and the shade. It was a fun exercise and discussion about the role colors play in our observation of a photo.
  • Slideshow Presentation – This is a good idea, gone wrong for the video format. Here Trey goes over a bunch of his past photos and discusses some. The idea was good, but because this was a video recording of the class environment (with an odd start where the camera is effectively in dead space) it doesn’t come across as strong as if you were there in real life or if it were all a PowerPoint presentation made for video. However, for the most important photos the video feed from the classroom is replaced with a static image which helps for the most important photos. This is a good concept, but a not so good implementation for the video format. 
  • Trey’s Camera Bag – Gear geeks will enjoy seeing what Trey carries around in his bag, but I was bummed that he neglected to mention what was attached to his Nikon D3x. He did have a couple cool little toys that were fun to see.
  • Austin Photo Walk – At first my expectations were low about this, but it turned out to be one of the highlights of the disc. Here you get a chance to see how Trey executes the capture of the his images, and more importantly you get to hear what’s in his head when he’s evaluating a scene for a shot. This is golden here because I think this is an area where Trey possesses a lot more natural talent than your average button masher. The best part is that you get to enjoy being on the walk in the warmth of your home/office rather than being in the cold with the crowd – woohoo!
  • Driskill Photo Walk – This is a fun chapter as well because you really get a better idea of what’s in Trey’s head when he composes the two shots in this chapter. It’s funny to see how he really doesn’t worry about people in the shot because he’ll use long exposures to compensate for them (which has the effect of ghosting or removing them all together depending on the length of the exposure and the movement of the people). I felt I learned a lot about composition in this chapter, so I was happy with the info presented here.
  • Now the geeky engineer minds who approach photography as a science will probably flip out at a few of Trey’s comments in this chapter, and may event faint at his lack of concern for diffraction. I know for a fact that Trey’s way of thinking and operating his equipment is consistent with some of the best photographers in the industry that I’ve interviewed. What I mean by this is that Trey’s brain is thinking more about the shot itself and less about the camera settings, so that the camera really just becomes a tool to capture the data he needs to later assemble his vision. Perhaps this is the sign of a real artist because I’ve seen this pattern of behavior occur repeatedly with some of the photographers I admire the most. If you fall into this camp that has stress watching this chapter, then I’d encourage you to keep the big picture in mind and focus on the why behind what Trey is doing and apply your own camera technique to meet the objective that expresses your artistic intent.

    My overall take from this chapter is what a great sense for composition Trey has, which is something I hope to improve upon, so I thought this was one of the more important chapters on this disc.
    The Church in Limelight
    Paris Church - Copyright © Trey Ratcliff
  • Paris Church Tutorial – This is fairly useful – especially for those who are still learning Photoshop because Trey shows practical applications of layer masks, including dialing down the brush opacity to 50% (a simple concept that many forget about). Some other practical things he did that I thought were good tips for me to remember, was his changing his layer order to make masking easier (although that’s not necessary if you fill your mask with black), and his multiple use of the patch tool to get the results he wanted. The patch tool is one that I become frustrated with as it rarely gives me the results I wanted, but I’ve never thought to use it repeatedly to get the desired result so this was a great technique for me to add to my toolkit. The funny thing about this shot is that I think Trey processes it better (i.e., removes more hot spots and has less black mid tones) in the video than he did in the shot above posted in this article.

Overall, I felt like the last three chapters were the real bang for the buck of this first DVD, so if you are wanting to power through the series I’d say those are the mandatory chapters to watch. These chapters made up for some of my initial disappointment and helped me to remember that the value in this material isn’t the presentation, but the content discussed. There were a fair amount of tips and concepts shared that made me really want to go shoot some HDR shots so I could apply what I just learned.

Disc 2

This is the disc you bought this series for, so I really got a kick out of the content on this. Here Trey walks through start to finish post-processing on four photos and common problems with two more. I loved this because I felt like I was a fly on the wall looking over Trey’s shoulder to see how he deals with problems we face all the time. When he had certain problems that many of us would just say screw it and discard the picture, he came up with a nice solution to save the shot. This was a very good disc and a lot of fun. Here’s my thoughts on the chapters:

    Click to see Trey's Version - Image Copyright (c) Trey Ratcliff 
    Venetian - Copyright © Trey Ratcliff  (posted with special permission)
    Post-processing by Ron Martinsen
  • Venetian in Vegas – This was a cool shot even without HDR, so honestly I probably would have just taken the best frame and ran from there. However, Trey does a good job of addressing some common problems and making a good shot look great. I love the final output from this exercise. I especially enjoyed how he dealt with a little misalignment issue he had with his tone mapped image (something you’ve never seen before right? ha, ha). I loved the output here and thought this was a great final product. The shot above is my crack at it, but I didn’t quite solve the alignment problem as well as he did so I need to watch the chapter again. I’ve linked this shot to his version though so you can see how cool his final version really is!

    Mouse over to see before, mouse out to see after
    Kyoto Alley - Copyright © Trey Ratcliff  (posted with special permission)
    Post-processing by Ron Martinsen


    Trey’s edit (beyond what he does in the video)
    Copyright ® 2009 - Trey Ratcliff (original article)
  • Japanese Alley – One of my favorite places on Earth is Kyoto, Japan so this photo has special meaning to me. With that disclaimer, I’d have to say this was one of my favorite photos to watch Trey work on because I felt the transformation from neat photo to awesome photo was complete. What’s even more fun is that since I had the premium version I actually had access to his original files and could apply what I learned myself on Trey’s photo. Thanks to special permission from Trey, I can show you the before and after results above. Below my version, I have also included Trey’s original version from December 2009 where’s put a bit more time in it than what you see on the DVD (my image is closer to the DVD edit), but both are great versions with different results due to personal taste. I like them both, and this is what you should take away from this – even if you hate HDR – you can apply HDR and tone mapping as a tool and choose to use or abuse it to your taste.
  • Driskill Lion Statue – This was neat because you get to see Trey post-process the shot he took on the Driskill Photo Walk on Disc 1. I felt this chapter could have used a little more editing because Trey spends a lot of time searching through Nik Software filters when a simple Hue/Saturation Adjustment Layer probably could have done the trick. What you do see clearly in this chapter though is that Trey doesn’t really have a formula, but rather a mental database of techniques that he’s mastered and he experiments heavily to get the results for the vision in his mind of how the shot should look.
  • Oasis Sunset – I found his tip of drawing different opacity brushes around the horizon useful, but I also remember Scott Kelby doing a Radial Gradient with additional markers in his 7 Point System book that was more efficient (once you get the hang of it). I agree with Trey’s decision not to show that technique though as it is a little complex to grasp at first. Another useful thing about this chapter is that I thought his tone mapped version looked pretty nasty, but it shows very well how Trey only looks at the parts of the tone mapped image that he wishes to re-use and ignores the rest when working in Photomatix. This was a breakthrough idea for me as I tend to look at the entire image, so I have been a major technique in Trey’s toolbox! In this example he also shows off onOne Software’s Drizzle and Wow Landscape filters. He also used Viveza to desaturate the nasty purple color cast in the water, which is something I use quite often as well.

    My only gripe about this chapter was that Trey spends a lot of time removing dust spots by circling using the patch tool, when the healing brush’s default behavior would have been just as effective (and efficient for video purposes).
  • Image Straightening – This was an ‘ah, ha” moment for me because Trey demonstrates a problem we all face when cropping – when you can straighten your vertical plane but not the horizontal at the same time. He solves this classic problem by checking off the perspective checkbox and moves the four corners independently to get his desired result. I use that technique later in this article for my Ireland Castle Tower shot, and was pleased to be reminded about something I had long forgotten about.
  • California Sunrise – Here’s another case where Viveza saves part of the day and onOne Software Plug-in Tools Graduated Cool Warm filter (under Photo Filters) really helps to do serious magic on this shot that most of us would have deleted for fear that the photo couldn’t be saved.

I loved this disc because you get to sit and enjoy Trey from the best seat in the house to watch what he’s doing and listen to him discuss what’s in his head for a given shot. I know this disc has helped me a lot already, so this is one where you can’t miss a thing.

Disc 3

This disc is much of the same of what you get in disc 2, but every photo has its own unique challenge so it’s more about learning from repetition which is how I learn most effectively. Here’s the chapters you’ll find on this disc along with my thoughts on them:

    Crossing the Bridge into Old Lyon
    Red Bridge – Copyright © Trey Ratcliff
  • Red Bridge – This image has monster noise but Trey handles it in stride (without resorting to using Photomatix noise reduction, which I agree can be too aggressive). He uses a really cool radial blur (with zoom) to create a very cool sky effect that makes noise reduction software unnecessary for this photo.Hey calls this technique the “Trey Burst”, and I quite like it. See the story where this image first appeared here.


    Bullet Train – Copyright © Trey Ratcliff
  • Bullet Train – This was a pretty challenging image to process, so you can learn a lot of techniques by watching this edit. For this one he uses the Topaz Adjust “Dramatic” filter and does an “onion style” (or radial gradient) to blend the man from one image into the tone mapped layer. He tops it off with the onOne Software “Wow Landscape” filter again for the final touch.
  • Black & White HDR – Say the word Black & White or Split Toning to anyone using Photoshop these days and you’ll find that nearly all use Nik Software’s Silver Efex Pro as their weapon of choice to get great results. This chapter is no different and is actually more of a short demo to show you how Trey uses this tool which I think is one of the most fun products on the market today (and remember, I used to hate Black & White!). (NOTE: If you decide to print your B&W on an Epson printer, then be sure to check out my Advanced Black & White article for some helpful tips).
  • Double Tone Map – This is a funny tip/trick because after you do your first tone mapping the button to tone map again is disabled, but you can use the menu or shortcut keys in Photomatix to get it to tone map your already tone mapped image a second time. For the right subject the results are very neat, and Trey shows out to do it without going totally overboard.
  • Process Single Raw – This is actually two techniques in one – the first is using a single RAW for an HDR image and the second is understanding how to properly tone map with people (i.e., ignore the exposed body parts and focus on properly tone mapping the rest of the image). Even though I would have never used HDR for this photo, I appreciated seeing how Trey executed both of these techniques to create a very pleasing result.
  • Halo Removal – How many times have you had someone tell you that your final shot has halos? Have you fought with the transition from the twilight sky to the tree or city line? Well this chapter is very useful to see how to address this problem in a technique that is more simple and effective than what I’ve done in the past.

If you can only get the Basic Edition, this is the end of the road of what you’ll learn. However, there’s a lot to learn up to this point so you shouldn’t go away disappointed. I found a lot of value in watching Trey do his magic and then trying to do it myself on some of the sample images included in the Premium Edition, so if you don’t go for that edition then be sure to practice on your own images with similar challenges to apply what you’ve learned.

Disc 4 – Premium Edition Only

This disc is the one you should insert into your computer first before starting the series so you can download all of the images. I didn’t discover this until I was on disc 4, so I was disappointed I didn’t have the files handy for all of the chapters until the end. With that said, I was able to go back and try to apply what I saw and when necessary revisit some chapters, so I was thrilled to have this content.

All of the chapters on this disc are images captured during the photo walks on the first disc, so you can see more end to end results by watching these chapters. I honestly thought all three of them were fantastic examples of how to deal with common challenges to make the mundane look great. Here’s my thoughts on the chapters of this disc:

  • Shakespeare’s Pub – This is one of the first things from the photo walk you see on disc 1, and this processing offers many challenges. It was neat to see how he deals with a moving flag, a way overblown light, and a little bit of a blur on the sign introduced by a little camera shake movement. Topaz Adjust is used on this one to give it that colorful look that so many people enjoy with Trey’s images, so it is neat to see him do his magic on this seemingly boring street shot.
  • Old Warehouse – In this chapter Trey shows a technique for removing Chromatic Aberrations that I hadn’t seen before, so it made this chapter extraordinarily useful to me! I loved this technique and look forward to going back to a couple of photos that seemed hopeless and now fix them with this new trick. I also enjoyed seeing him double tone map a what turned out to be a cool shot of something that even one of the students on the walk wondered what he saw in the location.  This was a good example of turning ugly daily life into art – fun stuff!

    The Driskill at Night – Copyright © Trey Ratcliff
  • Driskill Exterior – Once again  you get to see how Trey deals with distractions that would normally trip most of us up. He doesn’t wait for the cars to get out of the way, but rather takes his shots and then during imaging takes the best of the blurred cars from different images to create the final composite (show above). He also throws a “Trey Burst” on the orange lamp on the right side to give the image more dramatic flare, which I thought was a nice creative touch.

    This was a very good demo that was finished off with onOne Software’s “Wow Landscape” filter again.

Over 220 full-size JPEG files totaling 1.5GB await you on disc 4 so that you can follow along with Trey on the same exact images he’s working on. In addition, their is his eBook Top 10 Mistakes in HDR Processing and How to Fix Them, so if everything you’ve learned wasn’t enough there’s more goodness in this eBook to help you to address the challenges you face with your own photos more effectively.  

Can the information on these discs really help your HDR images?

Did anything that I watch on these discs really help? Well perhaps you should be the judge. Take a look at the image below which was done using the techniques described by Trey and then hover your mouse over it (it may take a few seconds for the image to load) to see the way that I did HDR for my Photomatix 3.1 review. My verdict? Uh, yeah I’ve improved and I want to vomit at that crap I had before!

Mouse over to see before, mouse out to see after 
My HDR work before and after what I learned in this series
Copyright © Ron Martinsen – All Rights Reserved

One of the big factors that helped this image was that I knew how to use Photomatix better, but another was that I had a better command of my post-processing options and tools by Topaz Labs, Nik Software, and onOne Software – all of which were used here to create this final result. Below is a shot of the tone-mapped file I created this time using Photomatix versus what I created before watching Trey’s video (i.e., before I knew what the hell I was doing):

Mouse over to see before, mouse out to see after
My Photomatix tonemapping results before and after this series

Conclusion

I’m very happy with what I learned, and I felt that it helped me A LOT. Even if I never do another HDR image, I have skills that will help me with all of my work so that alone was worth the price of the basic edition. Personally, I got a lot of satisfaction out of working with Trey’s image and seeing the amazing results he posts day in and day out, and that added confidence made me look at my own photos that have been sitting on my drives forever and say “hey, I can save that”. I think the practice, repetition and confidence boost I got from having those files and a few more examples in the Premium Edition make it worth the extra money.

I highly recommend this series, and if you have the cash, I think it is worth it to get the Premium Edition. If you don’t, then it’s still worth getting the Basic Edition, but just be prepared to go shoot some new HDR images now so you have something you can use to apply what  you’ve learned from the series.

In addition to the passion I already had for my Nik Software tools, I find myself using Topaz Labs Adjust a lot more often now. I also find that I’m happy with Photomatix 4.2 way more than the 3.x version. Click here for my HDR Comparison article too. I therefore would encourage you to download trial versions of these tools as well as onOne Software’s Plug-in Suite (which I’ve used for ages) to see how fun it can be and how much time you can save by using all these tools together.

Special Offers from Trey, onOne, HDRSoft, Nik and Topaz (UPDATED)

Now Trey is offering three versions with the base downloadable version as low as $99, the Basic for only $219 and the Premium for only $379. Click here to learn more about each version and save while this offer lasts! The other good news is that the $99 version is downloadable for instant gratification!

I also have a special offer where you can save an additional 15% ALL StuckInCustoms products when you use my discount coupon code RONMART15 which can be applied on top of the savings listed above for the lowest prices ever!

    Be sure to check out my interview of Trey Ratcliff which also includes info on his textures, as well as my review of his eBook “Top 10 Mistakes in HDR Processing and How to Fix Them”.

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