Showing posts with label photos. Show all posts
Showing posts with label photos. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 20, 2016

REVIEW: Meural Large Digital Frames–The Perfect Way To Display Your Family Photos


*** See my review for the new version 2.0 released in Nov 2017 ***

Meural Digital Canvas - Show famous art or your own
Meural Digital Canvas - Show famous art or your own

If you've ever shopped around for digital frames, it's easy to say that you've probably experienced how underwhelming the offerings can be. Generally the digital frames are small, with horrible resolution displays and they usually only allow you to upload your photos via USB or some very bad software.

Wouldn't it be great if you could upload your photos to a digital frame that was housed in a wooden frame with a matte that was suitable for display in a fine home, art gallery or luxury hotel?

Wouldn't it be great if you could not only upload your photos from your computer and have them automatically downloaded to your frame from anywhere in the world with an internet connection?

Wouldn't it be cool if you didn't see the same photos all day long, but could also see the work of others fine art paintings and photos?

Most digital frames suck, does this one?

When the folks from Meural contacted me about reviewing a frame that could do all of this, I was highly suspicious that the quality and user experience would be terrible. I'm a NEC Color Visionary and X-Rite Coloratti Pro with a history of working with display manufacturers. I’ve attended display technology conferences, so I know what good quality displays and accurate color look like.  As a result, I'm used to being underwhelmed and very disappointed by bargain displays that look terrible to my eyes.

I'm happy to report that when my frame arrived I was very pleased and my "geek with a new toy" smile hasn't left my face since it's arrival.

For starters they did a fantastic matte finish that avoids reflections without destroying image quality. They also did a good job of calibrating the color from the factor, so the images on the frame were on par with my calibrated NEC PA Series displays.

What I wasn't expecting is that the wood and matte that surrounds the frame is very well done and feels like something I'd get from a high end framing studio. I've spent $450+ on custom frames of this size, and while I wouldn't say that this frame is as good as some of the ones I've purchased - it's very close. Keep in mind though that those were traditional frames that just housed and protected one photo. This is a digital frame that looks great on the wall, even when it is off, and even better when it is displaying lots of my images and fine art.

Using my Meural Canvas

Canvas List
The Canvas List displays all of the canvases that you've registered

I've been using my frame for a couple weeks, and even though I typically wait longer to do a review - I love this product so much I felt compelled to write my review right away. Part of the reason for this is that it not only performed beautifully displaying my images and the art of others, it did so with zero noise and no noticeable heat. This is a HUGE advantage over using a smart TV or building your own PC to display images - both of which I've already done before myself.

Canvas Settings

When I first got my canvas and started using it, I was disappointed that the phone app and gesture based UI had no mechanism for editing important settings like slide duration and off hours. Fortunately all of these settings are easily accessible via the web site and included even more than I could imagine. Rather than spend a lot of time talking about them, here's a screen shot of the behind the scenes controls I have over my canvas:

Canvas Settings
Canvas Settings
Some images featured here are copyright their respective owners and used under license

In addition to being able to specify exactly what art collections are stored on my canvas, I can control when they are displayed as well as when the frame sleeps thanks to the handy timeline feature. If you’ve ever used other frames or tried to build your own, this is the key thing that the others fail to offer. This is the game changer feature that really sets this frame apart!

My family really loved how we could enjoy our family photos during meal times but then enjoy other art during the day so we didn't get bored seeing the same photos all day long.

Video Demo

*** Note this covers the original frame and UX – all has improved so I’ll be updating this in the near future ***

While recording a video of any video display is the best way to make a display look terrible, I decided it was important to show off some of the features of this frame. Please know that the image quality of this display is outstanding in real life – much like a high quality computer monitor, so don’t be misled by the video quality.

I also show the iOS and web apps that complement this device. It should be noted that while I demo the iOS app, there is also an Android version too.

Technical Specs

If you are a geek like me then you want more technical details about the display specs and the hardware, so I've created this link  for you to get that info including a video that shows how they are built.It's fun to watch so check it out!

The highlights are the 27” 1080p IPS Display with Anti-Glare Technology, 1920 x 1080 Full HD Resolution and 8GB of storage.

Conclusion

Yes, you can use your Smart TV (or device connected to your TV), your iPad, an old computer or a new fanless PC to have your own digital slideshow solution. What makes this product unique is that you get a fine art quality frame that just works without any heat or noise issues, and great software and stock that keeps things interesting.

It's nicely designed UI makes it simple to see the photos you want when you want them - including art made by others. The simplicity and quality of this all-in-one solution is what makes it unique. The performance of the 27" 16:19 aspect ratio calibrated color display is what makes it feel like a 23x13" print hanging on the wall.

I expected to be underwhelmed, but I can't say enough about how much I love this frame. In fact, now that I have one I seriously want another one so I can dedicate one to landscape photos and another to portrait photos elsewhere in my house. I want one for my elderly parents house  too- that's how much I love this product!

If you've been underwhelmed or disappointed by digital frame offerings in the past, I'm pleased to say that the time has come to finally get one. This is the one I've been waiting for! Even if you don't own a camera - it's useful at displaying lots of great (and currently free) stock art available on the Meural web site, as well as digital art you purchase off  the web.

Verdict: HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!

Where to order

Meural has discontinued all discount offers from partners, but  you can CLICK HERE to order.

Disclosure

If you make a purchase using links found in this article, I may make a commission. It doesn’t cost you a penny more, but it does help to support future articles like this. I was also provided with a review version of this product.

NOTE: This site requires cookies and uses affiliate linking to sites that use cookies.

If you enjoyed this article, please support future articles like this by making a donation or saving money by using my discount coupon codes. Either way, your support is greatly appreciated!

This blog is intended for freelance writing and sharing of opinions and is not a representative of any of the companies whose links are provided on this site.

The opinions provided are of Ron Martinsen alone and do not reflect the view of any other entity

Monday, February 23, 2015

REVIEW: ioSafe 1515+ NAS powered by Synology DSM–The Ultimate in Photo & Video Storage (Special Offer)

ioSafe NAS 1515+ powered by Synology
ioSafe NAS 1515+ powered by Synology DSM Protects against Fire & Flood

Recently I had every photographers worst nightmare come true – my storage solution (a DroboPro) – stopped being visible to my computer so I feared I had lost 12 TB of images!

I had used Drobo’s “dual disk redundancy” for protection, but I failed to think about what happens if the Drobo can’t communicate with my computer. After numerous attempts to contact both Drobo support, media relations and even the CEO went unanswered I decided to join Scott Kelby in saying I’m done with Drobo (see Scott’s story).

Fortunately I discovered a solution – on my own – to get my Drobo data back, but it was a very scary time for several days. As a result, I went on a mission to not only find a replacement device, but also something that I felt I could trust in the event of an even bigger disaster like a fire or flood. My data needed a new home, so I wasn’t going to make the same mistakes of the past!

I’ve written about the ioSafe Solo and SoloPRO and I still love and use both to this day. Out of laziness I moved away from using ioSafe’s for my primary drive each year in 2011 and just stuck my files on my DroboPro. However, this potential data loss scare reminded me of the peace of mind that I have with my ioSafe’s so I decided to revisit them again for a Drobo replacement solution – and so much more!

What is a ioSafe?

It’s a hardware design that protects your hard drives from damage from physical disasters like fire, flood, earthquakes, etc… The case is exactly that – a safe –  and enclosed within it is basically a Synology DiskStation DS1515+ 5-Bay NAS Server. Here’s a peek inside to where the drives are located after you’ve peeled through two layers of protection via the included tool to remove the screws:

Up to 5 Hard Drives are encased in a massive layer of protection
Up to 5 Hard Drives are encased in a massive layer of protection

Click here to learn more in this CES video about the ioSafe 1515+ where it gets a video walkthrough and opened up. However, what’s more interesting is to see a device like this get subjected to a serious fire as is the case here:

While the video above is its smaller sibling, the case design is the same. It’s pretty impressive to see it get burned at 1000 degrees Fahrenheit(7:15) for several minutes and then opened up (at 10:50 mark). The unscathed drives get put into a new unit where the files are accessed without any problem – pretty impressive!

What the heck is  NAS RAID?

ioSafe NAS 1515+ powered by Synology - Front View
No confusing this for being a Macbook Air - it really is a safe!

Simply put, it is a dedicated computer that has only one job – to manage storage (hard drives). NAS stands for Network Attached Device and it is just that – a device attached to your router or wall plate via one or more Ethernet cables. However, this is a special class of NAS that is often referred to as a “Smart NAS” which does more than just hold files – it also can do cool things like be a media, file, web, or even WordPress server – and much more!

ioSafe NAS 1515+ powered by Synology - Rear View
See those 4 LAN ports? That's protection against a single point of failure for your connection!

To protect against cable and port failures, it supports up to 4 simultaneous Ethernet cables connected to your router. This is useful if you need the ultimately in reliability in case a cable gets unplugged (think tripped over), fails, etc… Now most photographers don’t have that many ports available on a home router anyway, so let’s assume you don’t care about that.

Redundancy has a great value over time where a port can fail due to age and your NAS can no longer connect to your router. This was exactly the failure point for both my Drobo and Buffalo systems devices, so if your computer can’t talk to the device you are out of luck! 

Since this is a dedicated computer that means it has its own operating system which also has the benefit of meaning that you can attach devices to its USB ports like additional external hard drives, network cameras, printers and more.

If you want the device to behave like a drive and not a NAS, that is still possible with its iSCSI support. I used iSCSI for my DroboPro, but I’ve decided to abandon that approach this time around so I can take advantage of all the features this product has to offer as a smart NAS.

Click here to learn about more ways this device offers benefits specifically for photographers.

Cool Web User Interface

image

Having to learn a new OS sounds scary, but the reality is that you don’t. If you can use a mouse and step through a wizard in a web browser you have the skills needed to use this device.

Rather than having to remote a Windows or OS X interface (think SplashTop), this device allows the operating system to run in your web browser and communicate over the web with the device. The performance is extremely fast and works extraordinarily well (like ChromeOS). The magic behind this technology is called Disk Station Manager 5.1 (or DSM for short), and it works exceptionally well.

Here’s a sample running on my Windows 7 desktop from Chrome:

image
Yeah, that is a Canon RAW file opened up directly in DSM
Click here to see image formats supported by Photo Station

See, that’s not scary at all! I was even shocked to see that I could open RAW files! Click here for a massive list of what DSM supports.

The main takeaway for photographers here is that there isn’t some cryptic, unusable and painfully slow user interface. What’s more, it isn’t just a black box either. You can connect to the device easily from your computer and operate it the same as if you had a monitor connected to it (which isn’t possible).

See my video below for a quick walkthrough of how you’ll use DSM. While I show Windows in my example, the experience is identical for DSM on OS X:


DSM is the Operating System for the 1515+ accessible via your web browser

Accessing or Uploading via iOS was Easy

Mobile Upload/Download just worked
Mobile Upload/Download just worked

Are you using Dropbox, OneDrive, iCloud, Google Drive, etc… right now and paying monthly fees? Well if you wanted to replace them, then you’ll be happy to know that this product can act as your own cloud server which Synology calls Cloud Station.

To be fair there is some integration of iCloud into OS X and other services into Windows/Chrome OS that makes it work more seamlessly with your apps, but if you’ve OneDrive or other less popular file services then this is basically the same as those – except you don’t have to pay a monthly fee because it’s on your NAS!

You can easily use this device to store files of any type that are accessible (as you allow) to anyone on the Internet. You can also disable this feature too (it’s off by default) to ensure that nobody can hack into your files as well (assuming they can’t get into your network).

I only had an iPhone to test with, but I found the support to be brilliant for uploading/downloading photos to/from my iPhone both over the local network and the Internet when not at home. Simply put, it just worked!

It’s just as easy to make this device become a home media server too so you can easily view your music, video, and photos on your SMART TV, game console, etc… It can be an iTunes server as well so you can easily serve content to your Apple TV device.

Accessing your files remotely vs backing up your files

Photo Station Uploader is interesting but file copy works just as well
Photo Station supports a client app that makes it easy to bulk upload photos, but I personally prefer a traditional file copy via Finder / Explorer to the photo share to work just as well

I want to be very clear on a subject that I found confusing when I first got this device – storage versus backup. This device has loads of use services with matching mobile apps for easy access:.

  • Cloud Station is an included storage service that allows you to have a 1515+ act like your own personal Dropbox where you can access it remotely and share links with people.
  • Photo Station is a photo server that you can access from a web browser or use on your mobile device or desktop to bulk upload photos.
  • Media Server - This is an awesome DLNA compliant media server that work great with your Smart TV, Game Console, and mobile devices to easily access your music, photo and videos with them pre-converted into a format that allows for fast remote usage (although you can disable that and just serve full-size files).
  • And More – There’s a bunch of server packages to do things like iTunes server, WordPress, Video, Audio, Logitech Squeezebox, and so much more. It can even be an email or web site server too!

All of this is great, but NONE are what people traditionally think of as backup solutions.

Backup software protects your files on your local computer from accidental deletion, virus attacks, drive failure, etc… While the 1515+ does include software that allows you to backup your 1515+, it does not include software to help you back up your PC’s. Instead, you can think of the 1515+ as a destination where your existing backup software can use to store a backup of your devices (i.e., laptop, computer, etc…).

Now I see a device like this as valuable for several purposes:

  1. Huge Hard Drive Scenario – This is what us photographers need to hold the never ending amount of storage needs for our photos. This product rocks for this and it can be treated as a network drive or what feels like a local drive via iSCSI (like Drobo where it also behaves like a local hard drive).
  2. File & Media Server - To have a place where you can upload/download files from any device and easily access them from your phone, TV, any computer, etc… This is what the Cloud Station (file server), Photo Station (photo server), Media Server (audio, video, photos), etc… packages do.
  3. Data Backup Storage - To have a backup solution that I don’t have to think about – it just works. This is what your backup software included in your operating system or sold separately does. This software will simply use your 1515+ as a place to store its backup data.

To backup your data against accidental deletion, you still need local backup software like Windows Backup, Time Machine or even Drobo PCBackup would probably work (but I didn’t try it). This software generally doesn’t care about what your device is, it just wants to know where it can put a huge file and get access to it all of the time. For this task, the 1515+ works great. However, if you don’t have software you already like for this purpose then this device will not help you with that problem.

As  I also mentioned, it is a great “huge hard drive” too. If your backup routine is more simplistic where you just copy files to a Drobo or some external device (via Lightroom’s “Make a second copy to” feature on import) then the 1515+ is great for that too!

Don’t forget to backup your NAS!!!!

Included Backup Packages
This is for backing up your NAS, not your computer, to a remote destination

Getting a NAS creates a bit of a chicken and egg problem, because it can serve as a storage location for your computer backups – but what happens if your NAS dies? This is an especially important issue if you use it as your Huge Hard Drive (i.e., the place where we keep our PSD and RAW files) which is what most of us usually do with a Drobo or external hard drive once the drives in our computer fill up.

The 1515+ includes built-in software for this and you could use something like CrashPlan, but it’s important to have something that is off site for this scenario (although you may want to have the device on-site for that first backup).

You can also have an off-site NAS backup your on-site NAS to protect you in case a total loss at your home/office (i.e., theft, mudslide, etc…) where your on-site is gone forever. For this later purpose, DSM offers a way for you to backup your 1515+ to another NAS or cloud service. This is both important and necessary, but don’t confuse this with the backup software required to keep the files on your PC backed up – that’s different and not covered by this service.

Click here to see a full list of software you can install. The packages are for your 1515+, but the stuff for Windows or Mac is much more limited and noted as such in the Download column.

Geek Setup Alert for Cloud Station

Cloud Station is your personal dropbox-like service
Cloud Station (Windows View) is like your own personal Dropbox service,
but it doesn’t protect against accidental file deletion

Getting things set up the first time for Cloud Station is rather tricky for non-geeks so I highly recommend that you watch this video:

 

You also may have to do one or more of the following steps which isn’t especially straightforward:

  1. Install the Cloud Service on both the ioSafe (from the Package Center) and on the PC (from the browser).
  2. Start the Cloud Service app on the server and follow any instructions and warnings. For example, I was prompted to go to Advanced User settings to enable the user home service.
  3. Set up a QuickConnectID which allows remote computers on the Internet to find your ioSafe1515+. It is VERY important that you are using very strong passwords before you take this step!
  4. For me, I also had to tell my router to use the same IP address for my ioSafe. This is not for the faint of heart, so if you haven’t done this before then you’ll probably want to call product support. You’ll know if you need to do this because the QuickConnectID setup will tell you, so if you don’t see that warning then ignore this step.
  5. In some cases you have to grant permission to your user account in the Shared Folder Control Panel via the Security tab so that you have read/write access to the place where you will be backing up.
  6. Set or verify that you have enabled privileges and sharing for your user account in the privileges and sharing tab of the cloud station control panel shown below:

Cloud Station

TIP: You can’t use the same name for your quick connect ID as you use for your local computer.

Fortunately all of this stuff is a one time thing so once you get it set up all is well. This is why non-geeks may want to ask a geek to help out so you don’t spend much time getting things set up.

Worried about security?

Security Advisor offers peace of mind
Security Advisor offers peace of mind

One obvious concern once you start opening up devices to the internet is how secure is this system? None of us want our photos stolen or systems hacked, so I felt good about having the built-in free Security Advisor check my system and tell me what I needed to do to lock my system down. Geeks aren’t required to use or act on the recommendations it suggested, so I loved having this feature available to me.

For the geeks reading this, common suggestions are reassigning port numbers, disabling the admin account (which can be locally restored without a bare metal restore), using strong passwords and other traditional safeguards. External and quick connect services are disabled by default, so you have to opt in before putting your device on the net.

Things to consider

There is much to love about this product, but there are a few things that you should know before you purchase this product:

  1. Noise – Under normal operating conditions this device sounds like a typical tower computer from 10 – 15 years ago. You hear it, but it is white noise that you get used to. However, people used to silent or fanless systems might be taken back by this noise. Sadly when the device gets hot, which is easy when you think about the fact that only 5 hard drives are buried in this massive beast – the fans go to maximum RPM(a good thing). When that happens, you hear an audible sound from the fans that I found to be annoying (a bad thing). As a result, if you are going to get one of these it is advisable to store it in a well ventilated place with Ethernet cable access where you won’t hear it but it can also pull in cool air to keep it from cooking itself.
  2. Size – What do you think of when you hear the term safe? Big and heavy, right? Yeah, well that’s exactly what this is too – it is very big and very heavy. Protection comes at price and in this case that translates to about 95 pounds and roughly 15 x 9 x 13  inches (h w d)!
  3. Expensive – At about 2x the cost of a Synology DiskStation DS1515+ 5-Bay NAS Server which is the core of this device but without the fire protection, the cost of physical protection is steep. The price doesn’t include hard drives either, so it is definitely a major investment. However, some will find that peace of mind worth it – especially if disaster ever strikes and you need it!

Storage Requirements

Disk calculator
Disk Calculator helps you to know how much storage you’ll really have for your data

If you’ve never had one of these type of devices before, you’ll be wise to use the Disk Calculator before ordering disks. While the graphic shows a bunch of drives, it is important note that this device only supports 5 drives – not the 12 drive bays shown.

I’d recommend you creating a disk group with Synology Hybrid Raid with 2 disk fault-tolerance (aka SHR2). This offers more flexible disk usage than traditional RAID and protects you against up to 2 disks failing simultaneously while still allowing you to access your data while your two new disks get rebuilt. This important because that means if you fill all five drive bays with 6TB of disks, 12TB will get used for protection so you’ll only have 18TB to hold your data. For most people this is more than they’ll need so smaller drives can be used or one slots can be left future expansion. Please note that SHR requires that replacement drives be the same size or larger, unlike Drobo which can take any size drive at any time.

Unlike Drobo which just flashes a light and you replace the drive without doing anything special, you are required to do a manual intervention to rebuild when a drive fails. A failure will be indicated by an audible alert (which you can clear remotely via DSM). It isn’t necessarily a difficult process, but it is more stressful than some Drobo users may be accustomed to.

Performance is Excellent

Any company in the storage business always quotes maximum possible performance numbers, but when you get the devices home and test yourself you never see those actual numbers. Here’s how they get the numbers, but I just never see those type of numbers in real world scenarios.

There are so many variables and tricks that can done to make the numbers look better than real world experiences that I never trust those numbers. A better test for me is to grab a folder full of JPEG & RAW images and copy them to a new folder on the same device as that limits the variables to the drives installed and the content of the data.

Using this test on a device freshly opened up out of the box with no modifications, I saw about 60mb/sec actual sustained performance with 1TB WD Red NAS class hard drives. My DroboPro saw about 42mb/sec under similar conditions.

When I copied a batch of files from my local SSD over to the 1515+ via iSCSI I was able to see sustained speeds as fast as 90mb/sec, so this is fast device when you eliminate disk IO bottlenecks.

Transferring data from your computer, camera, or other devices which most likely have slower transfer rates means you’ll probably never see those speeds in real world usage! However, this device is fast especially when you consider the same test on the fastest locally installed SSD’s I’ve tested were in this same range as well.

Oh and if you are wondering if it makes saving those huge 500MB+ Photoshop files any faster? Personally I noticed an improvement, but much of the slowness really seems to be Photoshop – not disk IO. Lightroom was much faster when I stored files on the 1515+ instead of my aging SSD’s or DroboPro, so I’d definitely move all my working files to this drive and continue to use the SSD just as a catalog cache.

A Cheaper Alternative

Synology DiskStation DS1515+ 5-Bay NAS Server
Synology DiskStation DS1515+ 5-Bay NAS Server

The ioSafe 1515+ is a big device that is rather pricy, so if it is too large or expensive for your needs then you can consider Synology DiskStation DS1515+ 5-Bay NAS Server. It is the same type of device WITHOUT the fire and flood protection. This means you’d be out of luck if any disaster situation should occur, but you could enjoy all the same hardware and software benefits of the device itself.

PLEASE NOTE: The purchase price does NOT include ANY hard drives! You MUST purchase drives separately

Drive Recommendations


Backblaze Hard Drive Reliability Update – Sep 2014

With over 34,881 drives storing over 100 petabytes of data, BackBlaze.com is a pretty trusted source about drive reliability. As you can see from the chart above the HGST drives have served them well, so I recommend NAS or Enterprise class (only) HGST Drives on B&H and Amazon. Please beware that you should avoid “green” / energy efficient and desktop class drives as those aren’t built to withstand the heat of drives running 24/7.

WARNING: PLEASE consult THIS LIST and only use compatible drives. If you have a newer drive that you are considering that is not on this list then please contact support for approval before purchasing. Remember, unsupported drives really means unsupported so save yourself the frustration by only using supported drives.

Please note that the difference between Synology's supported drive list and ioSafe 1515+ Qualified Hard Drive List is that ioSafe has subjected all of their qualified drives to the burn test and confirmed that the drive was still working properly afterwards. While the larger list from Synology might work, you lose the peace of mind knowing they will survive a fire – which is the purpose for buying this device! As a result, using non-qualified drives from ioSafe’s list doesn’t make much sense. Contact product support for the status of drives not listed if you have any questions.

Warranty & Support Info

Click here to learn more about the no hassle warranty which also includes one year of data recovery service.  It should also be noted that there is both telephone and email support, and I did a blind test of this during my review and my interactions with Matt were excellent.

Click here to see the FAQ and

Conclusion

Like Scott Kelby, I’m done with Drobo. It’ll take me a while before I can get everything moved over and retire my drive, but that day is coming – this month! Based on all the research I’ve done, I’ve decided that Synology devices which ioSafe uses are the best bang for the buck over the more expensive competition like QNap.

If you’ve done any research on NAS devices then you’ve probably seen reviews for the Synology DiskStation DS1515+ 5-Bay NAS Server already. Synology DSM based devices are well known for being great media servers that work great with your DLNA compliant TV’s as well as backup solutions, and this is all that plus flood and fire protection. It’s also a brilliant solution for photographers who want a device that can host files for their clients without having to use external services and the monthly fees that go with them!

While average photographers will still probably need help from a geek to get things going, this device is brilliant and worked flawlessly for me during my testing. The web based DSM user interface was excellent too! Average computer savvy users what know how to configure their router and manage network shares shouldn’t have any trouble at all.

Flood and fire protection come at a steep premium for footprint, noise and weight, but that added peace of mind will be worth it for those who can both afford it and store it. My advice is to keep it in a well ventilated alternate location besides where you’ll be working for when the device is under load, but if you can’t don’t worry as the noise is generally inaudible for normal day to day use. In fact, when not under load it was certainly a lot less noisy than my DroboPro.

I highly recommend this product for those users who want the ultimate in on site data protection. It is true that it isn’t as simple as connecting a Drobo via USB, but it’s not too much harder and you get a lot more bang for your buck.

Where to order

Click here to order a 1515+ direct from ioSafe, or click here to learn about their full product lineup starting as low as $349 with a 2TB drive included (the Solo G3). Please note that not all devices are NAS devices and only the NAS devices powered by Synology come with DSM.

You can also get some ioSafe Devices at B&H and look for the 1515+ model on Amazon. If your budget is tight and you want to forgo disaster protection, then check out the cheaper 1515+ Synology Devices at B&H and Amazon.

You may also want to consider the following sources for hard drives (which often beat Fry’s, Newegg, etc…):

PLEASE consult THIS LIST and only use compatible drives when placing your order.

SPECIAL OFFER for ioSafe.com (Expires May 31, 2015)

Coupon Code Entry Example
Example of entering the coupon code in the ioSafe cart
(please note that codes change and are case sensitive)

  • Click here to order and use the coupon code ronmartNAS to save 10% OFF on any 214 or 1515+ when you buy direct from ioSafe.com.
  • Click here to order and use the coupon code ronmart to save 5% OFF on any Solo G3 or SoloPRO.

WARNING: The discount coupon codes are CASE SENSITIVE!

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Disclosure

If you make a purchase using links found in this article, I may make a commission. It doesn’t cost you a penny more, but it does help to support future articles like this. ioSafe provided me with a short-term loaner unit for this review.

NOTE: This site requires cookies and uses affiliate linking to sites that use cookies.

If you enjoyed this article, please support future articles like this by making a donation or saving money by using my discount coupon codes. Either way, your support is greatly appreciated!

This blog is intended for freelance writing and sharing of opinions and is not a representative of any of the companies whose links are provided on this site.

The opinions provided are of Ron Martinsen alone and do not reflect the view of any other entity

Monday, March 26, 2012

Parents Rejoice – No More Dark, Blurry and Out of Focus Pictures! (Canon 5D Mark III Real World Shots)

Ask nearly any parent how they managed to get their DSLR approved by the significant other, and the answer is nearly always that they claimed they needed it to get better shots of the kids. That argument is valid too as kids are the toughest subject to shoot. Dark, blurry, and out of focus shots are the norm, so I tell parents that if you photograph kids you are a sports photographer.

I hate to say it, but its time to go back to your significant other and tell them you need a camera upgrade. I know it’s going to be painful, but this really is THE camera that is going to get you the shots you’ve been missing for years. I know this because I’m a dad, and even I’ve struggled with this problem when I was too lazy to go get my flash.

Any child of a photographer is typically camera shy after a while as the Mamarazzi chases them around the house pointing a big lens and obnoxious flash at them. However, if you can afford this camera with the sniper rifle lens (a.k.a., the 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM) then you are armed to do battle to get the shots that have escaped you until now.

Conquering the Blurry Shots

Click for the orignal
1/160 sec at f/2.8, ISO 12,800, 105mm AWB
Unprocessed – straight out of the camera

If you are a parent, this camera is a fantastic investment to get the shots your current camera always misses. The reason why is that your Auto ISO can now use a much larger range of values before. This impacts your shutter speed which you want high to freeze action, so that increases your odds of getting the shot. You can also set a minimum shutter speed (see below) to help increase your odds even more. This coupled with the better AF system (see the next section) means that parents who are too busy to go get the flash can fire away and still end up with a handful of shots for the family scrap book like the one above (instead of massive disappointment).

No More Blurry Pics – Try This


1/250 sec at f/2.8, ISO 160, 200mm

When you use Av mode the camera looks at your lens and sets the shutter speed to approximately 1/<lens focal length>. This means that if you are at 70mm it will typically set your shutter speed to 1/100 sec. Auto ISO helps, but if you are in a fixed ISO it can drop to speeds that are impossible to hand hold. The 5D Mark III has a new feature to help with this problem.

On the Shoot 2 menu the second entry is called ISO Speed Settings. If you press this you can scroll to the bottom and adjust Min. shutter spd. (range 1/250 – 1 sec plus Auto). What this does is prevent your shutter speed from dropping below 1/250 sec when you use Aperture Priority (Av) or Program (P) modes. Nikon and 1D series owners are used to this feature, but this isn’t available on most Canon bodies. Now if you’ve hit your maximum ISO (12,800 by default) then your camera has no choice to drop below this value to try to get the shot, so if this happens you simply need more light (ambient light, a flash, or a lens that lets in more light).

When you set your camera to this mode you can stay in Av mode for most of your kids shooting without worrying about the shutter speed dropping so low that most of your shots turn out blurry. Of course this just applies for small typical kid behavior as sports and other action will require shutter speeds faster than 1/250 sec. This is where the 1D X has an advantage as you’ll be able to set the minimum shutter speed to whatever value you like (up to 1/8000 sec), just like its sibling the 1D Mark IV.

You can also go change the Auto ISO range here to have a maximum of 25,600 instead of 12,800 so that your camera will use that extra stop of light if it needs it. This is what I do, but your choice to do so depends on how much noise you can tolerate in your images. Keep in mind though, noise is easy to remove with products like Dfine and Noiseware.

What about that nasty orange tint like in the shot at the beginning of this section?

In the shot at the top of this section I was using Auto White Balance (AWB) which generally creates great results, but under tungsten light it can be a harsh orange. If you used the tungsten white balance it would give you a shot that isn’t quite so orange. If you shoot in RAW (files with cr2 extension for Canon) you can do this in post processing. Here’s a RAW file processed with a more natural white balance:


Click to see a large version complete with drool

I did nothing more to this file than simply change the white balance, so as you can see it can make a big difference. You can’t do this with JPEG shots so this is why its always handy to shoot raw (or sRaw if you know you won’t be making large prints).

Crop the crap out of your shots without fear

There’s lots of cameras with lots of megapixels, but most have done so much in-camera damage to those pixels to get you that large megapixel count that the pixels are useless. If you crop and try to upscale your image with Perfect Resize there’s not much it can do. Resizing just makes those ugly pixels look big and ugly. However, this camera has 22.3 high quality megapixels at your disposal, so when you crop down there’s plenty of detail left in the image for up scaling.

Here’s a great example – even when your subject is being stubborn like in this shot below:


1/250 sec at f/2.8, ISO 250, 200mm AWB

There’s so much high quality data in the image file that you can easily crop the shot and have plenty of detail to work with. Here’s the shot with ONLY a crop (no post-processing whatsoever).


Crop to 1883px wide by 2825px tall – easily enough pixels for a high quality 16x24” print

When you click the photo for the original you can see the detail is outstanding, but you are only left with about 5 megapixels. However, it’s a very good 5 megapixels so when we use Perfect Resize to upscale the image to 50 megapixels (5759x8640 which is 16x24” at 360 ppi) there’s enough data to create a very usable file. Click this to open the 50 megapixel file and print it at 16x24. If you view it at 2 feet away you’ll find it’s as good as most images you see anywhere that size. If you take the time to sharpening for output it’s even better.

Autofocus Performance – The Swing Test

Action Shot - Click to view the original
Action Shot - 1/2000 sec at f/2.8, ISO 500, 70mm AWB

I was busy being Dad this weekend to my three kids so I didn’t get as much time as I would have liked to shoot, but I did get to play around with the 5D Mark III. I’m still getting used to the controls so I had a large number of user errors that I can’t blame on the camera (i.e., like forgetting about the minimum focus distance when doing this sequence, and failing to change the aperture to f/5.6+). These user errors were mainly due to me playing with so many variables that I just wasn’t paying enough attention to the basics, but with that said I was very happy with the performance. While I’ve got lots of in-focus and sharp shots (many more than this one which is a tad soft), most were pretty bad shots (eyes closed, subject not looking, etc…) so I decided to grab this shot here which is stronger compositionally than it is sharp. I’ve thrown some other sharp ones in the sample gallery for you to examine.

What this sequence taught me about the 5D Mark III is that the AF system is very flexible and very good – straight out of the box. It has the same level of auto focus complexity as the 1D Mark IV (which is so difficult to use I created a guide to help people), but the five AF presets help increase your odds of getting things right. Rather than jumping to my 1D Mark IV settings I experimented using only the defaults and found them to be good for most cases, but the swing test wasn’t foolproof (to be fair though, this is tough for the 1D Mark IV too). 

In a sequence like this your subject moves so fast that you can’t keep an AF point on any given point. If you go to full auto AF points then it will always choose something besides the eye, so it’s easy to get a crisp Adidas logo or shoe tread, but getting the eye in sharp focus requires a little work. In short, the camera does what you tell it to do but not necessarily what you want it to –after all it’s a machine, not a human. :)

I shot myself in the foot here though by failing to change the aperture to f/5.6 – f/8.0 to get more depth of field, and I needed to back away from my subject to address my 70-200mm’s minimum focus distance. However, once I settled on all of my settings, my model (my son) and assistant (my daughter pushing him) were gone. 

I wouldn’t say that I found the perfect AF setting for this sequence, but I got enough data to know that I can pull off a good sequence when I try this again. I don’t think any of the defaults are perfect for this difficult situation, but out of the box I got more usable frames than I have with any new camera to date. I’ve beat this performance with the 1D Mark IV, but I suspect if I tried those settings here (with the correct camera settings) I’d get results that were as good or better.

It cleans up real nice (in a Larry the Cable Guy voice)

Mouse over to see before, mouse out to see after
ISO 25,600 With (mouse out) and Without (mouse over) Processing

I’ve been playing around a lot with the higher ISO’s to see how practical they are in the real world. For the shot above you can click here to get the original in-camera JPEG with zero processing (orange cast is from AWB), and click here to get the processed (from RAW) version.

It doesn’t get any more real than this because the truly hardest shots to pull off are when you are around the house with kids and you aren’t ready with all of your gear. In this case there’s no flash and the only ambient light is the light coming in from the front window (which is a mix of a fluorescent street light and tungsten) and the tungsten coming off the fireplace to the camera left. To the naked eye this is a pretty dark scene (about 2 stops darker that it appears here).

The original is a bit rough around the edges, but I thought – what if I had to make that photo work? With that in mind I white balanced the RAW in DPP and exported a 16-bit TIFF to Photoshop CS5 for further processing. From there I did a curves adjustment (to brighten the face), Noiseware “Stronger Color” preset to cut some of the noise, and then I did a low pass of Portraiture to clean up the skin a bit. Finally I did some basic high pass sharpening (Sharpener Pro would work too).

While the final result wouldn’t be suitable for a billboard, I could easily do a 13x19” print with this. I’d probably clean up some of image and do more work on the eyes, but it’s a totally usable starting point.

The truth is that for “mom’s” scrapbook, I’d probably call the in-camera JPEG done. At the 4x6 print size, it needs no work beyond white balancing and sharpening.

The Holy Grail Feature NEW to the 5D Mark III

When I was shooting the Seahawks last December I remembered a problem that has always plagued me – when using the AI Servo drive mode, if the action stops my shots all come out blurry. If I switch to One Shot (which takes time fiddling with the AF drive settings) then I’m doomed if the action starts moving again. Since this happens between plays, then it’s near impossible to switch. As parents it’s even worse for us as kids change their movement patterns faster than pro athletes!

I talk to a lot of pro photographers. Some have celebrity status or years experience shooting high profile sports, but I’ve discovered that most do things out of habit or consensus (i.e., what everyone else is doing). To that end, the universal workaround for the One Shot/AI Servo switching problem has been to change the camera custom function to use the AF-On button for focus (instead of a half-press on your shutter release button).  This allows the photographer to control when the AF goes on and off.  It’s effectively a workaround to the fact that you can’t quickly switch from AI Servo to One Shot auto focus drive modes*. That was a fine workaround for slow AF systems, but on a sophisticated AF system like on the 5D Mark III (and the 7D, 1D Mark IV, etc…) its a waste because you lost most of the benefit of AI Servo (which is designed to work best with autofocus always on).

* = People using big lenses with an extra button on them could program their camera to do this, so bird shooters have been doing this for years. However, most of us can’t afford $5000+ lenses, so this is new for mere mortals – and for smaller lenses. It’s also a fact that many people with these big lenses had no idea they could do this using that button either (based on my recent informal poll).

Changing the Depth of Field (DOF) Button to Toggle the AF Drive Mode

The 5D Mark III features the ability to reprogram the DOF button to toggle your AF drive mode states between One Shot and AI Servo. Here’s how:

image
Here’s the button that we’ll make useful on your new camera

  1. Go to the C.Fn2:Disp./Operation menu (in the orange section) and scroll down to Custom Controls.
  2. When you press the SET button you see a bunch of options, but the most important one is the fourth one that looks like aperture blades.
  3. Press the SET button and scroll to the option that says One Shot <->AI Servo
  4. Press SET change it.

You can now press the menu button to get out or just start shooting. However, now you are set up for real success when photographing kids. Now when you press the DOF button on the front of your camera, you’ll temporarily toggle the auto focus mode while the button is pressed. This means that if you are currently in AF Drive One Shot and you press this button, then while you are holding it down you’ll be in AI Servo. When you release it you’ll return to One Shot. The inverse is true too, so if you are in AI Servo, then holding it down will put you in One Shot.

I know this is confusing, so I tried to create a video that shows how to do this. My apologies for the really crappy video, but it gets the point across:


AF Drive Mode Toggle

Now that you have that programmed, you can always remember that if your subjects legs are moving, then you use the AI Servo auto focus drive mode. If your subject stands in a fixed position then you should be in One Shot auto focus drive mode. You can set the AF Drive mode to whatever your subject will be doing the most and then use the toggle button on the front of your camera to switch to the opposite mode when needed. For my rough and tumble toddler I typically am in AI Servo mode while he’s running around and then I toggle to One Shot when he stops to play (or pout as was the case below).


1/320 sec at f/2.8, ISO 640, 185mm AWB

Now that I have this feature I think the 5D Mark III is worth the upgrade simply for this feature. My 1D Mark IV doesn’t have this feature and it needs it big time as sports shooting always requires switching between these AF drive modes. Action requires AI Servo, but between plays when people are standing around you need One Shot.

By using this feature you WILL increase the number of in focus shots. There’s a lot more to the AF system that’s required to get a high success rate of in-focus shots, but I’ll save that for another day. In the mean time if you only do this, you’ll be doing much better than you have in the past.

Using Silent Mode to capture the moment


1/320 sec at f/2.8, ISO 1250, 120mm AWB

The sound of the mirror slap is classic sound for a DSLR and when you own your first DSLR you enjoy hearing it. However, you quickly learn that it can scare a kid off or cause them to stop doing what the action that caused you to pick up your camera in the first place. As a result it can be a distraction – especially at memorable events (i.e., recitals, plays, religious events, etc…). Now with the silent mode (and new for the 5D Mark III – silent burst mode), you can limit the amount of mirror slap noise to capture those shots without drawing attention or distracting your subject. In this short video I show how to use it and how it compares to other modes:


Silent Mode Video

For those of you with 1Ds Mark III and 1D Mark IV’s, I can tell you that this mirror slap seems a tad bit louder and more mechanical sounding than what you find on the pro bodies, but it certainly works. In fact, I’d say it’s very similar to the sound of taking a photo while you are in Live View.

Parents, wedding and event photographers should be very pleased with this new feature!

To see more real world shots not posted here, visit http://ronmart.zenfolio.com/5dm3firstshots/hdd6bb28#hdd6bb28

More to Come

I’ve got more to come on the 5D Mark III including a big article just for parents. Check back to learn more!

Order Yours Now - Special Offer


5D Mark III (stand-alone body) from Adorama

Adorama also has kits in stock with the 24-105mm f/4L IS lens (which is what I use). They are also offering a great deal on Lightroom 4 ($50 off) and Eye-Fi ($15 off) if you buy them together with your camera.

B&H also has a sale which features a SanDisk 16MB memory card and an extra battery (plus other qualifying rebates) for only $3499 (with free shipping).

Disclaimer

I paid full-price for this camera (zero discount) and was not paid a penny for this article from anyone. I mention Adorama only because they got me this camera quickly so I could bring this article to you while others are still waiting for their packages to arrive.

If you use links in this article to make a purchase I may make a small commission.

NOTE: This site requires cookies and uses affiliate linking to sites that use cookies.

If you enjoyed this article, please support future articles like this by making a donation or saving money by using my discount coupon codes. Either way, your support is greatly appreciated!

This blog is intended for freelance writing and sharing of opinions and is not a representative of any of the companies whose links are provided on this site.

The opinions provided are of Ron Martinsen alone and do not reflect the view of any other entity

Canon 5D Mark III Real World Shots–In-Camera HDR, High ISO, Flowers, Nature, People & Cars

5D Mark III – Front with Battery Grip
5D Mark III – Front with Battery Grip

All of the photos in this article are unprocessed photos that come directly from the in-camera JPEG file created by the 5D Mark III. All of these images are linked to a gallery of photos where you can view more info about the shot or download the original file that came from the camera (some files renamed for but otherwise untouched).

These photos are copyright Ron Martinsen - ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. You may not redistribute, link or otherwise consume without expressed written consent of Ron Martinsen.

Nice Dynamic Range and Color

I’ve been very pleased with the dynamic range and color I’ve been getting from the in-camera JPEG’s shown here:


1/200 sec at f/10 (handheld), ISO 3200, 100mm AWB


1/500sec at f/2.8, ISO 160, 70mm AWB

Garage Lighting – No Problem

Here I just snapped off a shot in the garage of a good looking car:


1/30 sec at f/4 (handheld), ISO 3200, 47mm AWB

Even at ISO 3200 the image looks clean (click for a link to the original). Garage conditions like this are tough, so I was impressed that without a flash I could get a shot like this.

High ISO with People

All of these are handheld shots with no flash.


ISO 12,800 AWB


ISO 20,000 AWB

The orange cast from auto white balance here is annoying but it can easily be fixed in DPP, Lightroom or Photoshop. I tested intentionally with the default settings and did not post-process this issue away.


ISO 2000 shot shows good dynamic range compared to predecessors


ISO 2500


ISO 8000


ISO 10,000


ISO 100


ISO 640


ISO 1000


ISO 4000

In-Camera HDR is pretty good

Here’s a single exposure as it came out of the camera “perfectly exposed”. The detail is good and the dynamic range of colors and exposure are decent, but even the X10 can out do this:


1/125 sec at f/11, ISO 200, 115mm AWB

Here is a handheld in-camera HDR shot using the Natural effect:


Auto Adjust Dynamic Range Setting with Natural Effect

This wasn’t my favorite example, but it’s one where you can see even with moving water and a slight breeze that the handheld HDR image alignment is pretty decent. This is in stark contrast to the G1X which is useless unless its on a tripod. It’s hard to believe these products come from the same company!

HDR Effects Samples

All of the following shots were shot hand-held and have not been modified from the in-camera result. No in-camera editing was done either. I suspect if I would have used a tripod and it wasn’t so windy then these results would have been much better, but I wanted a real-life experience for this article.


1/100 sec at f/8, ISO 800, 100mm
No HDR Effect – Single Exposure


HDR Effect – Natural


HDR Effect – Art Standard


HDR Effect – Art Vivid


HDR Effect – Art Bold


HDR Effect – Embossed

After my testing today I’ve got confidence in the “Auto” Adjust dyn range setting and the Natural effect. I figure I can always go for the extreme look later, but in-camera I want it to look natural.

Beware Moving Subjects

This is true of ALL HDR and is logical when you think about it, but for those who are new to HDR I thought I’d show you what can go wrong if you don’t think about what’s really happening in HDR mode. Here’s a setting that with a single exposure is okay but the sky is blown out:

To fix that we can do HDR but if we forget about having a shutter speed that can deal with moving people AND the Auto ISO to cover the range of exposure needed to get the shot at that shutter speed, then ghosts will appear:


Ghosts during HDR can sometimes be corrected (see below)

Ideally you want a clean shot, but sometimes that’s never possible. The best bet is to wait for the foreground subjects to leave, crank up your shutter speed, try again as I did here:


1/500 sec shutter speed used as the base for this HDR

This taught me that it’s best to be mindful of your situation and pay close attention to the shutter speed to get the best results.


Single Shot


HDR Natural – Handheld

Conclusion

I’m very pleased with the high ISO performance and features of the camera that allow me to get the shots that in the past would have been lost while I went searching for my flash. I’m feeling very comfortable shooting in manual and letting the ISO dictate the exposure, but I do find it tends to shoot one stop darker than I like with no exposure compensation. As a result I find myself dialing in the necessary ISO as needed.

I feel totally comfortable with using shots up to ISO 25,600 with anything at or below 6400 being as solid as ISO 1600 and below on my 5D Mark II.

I’m also impressed with the HDR mode which seems to work well even hand held. This is handy enough that I think I’ll do more HDR as there’s no post-process headache yet you can save the exposure to leave that option open if you like. I’ve come to love the EXR mode of my X10, so I’m pleased to have an option to get results that good from my DSLR and the benefit of it not being JPEG only (for the individual exposures – not the HDR image) is a big plus.

To see more real world shots not posted here, start here: http://ronmart.zenfolio.com/5dm3firstshots/hdd6bb28#hdd6bb28 

More to Come

I’ve got more to come on the 5D Mark III including a big article just for parents. Check back to learn more!

Order Yours Now - Special Offer

Adorama has a good deal on Lightroom 4 ($50 off) and Eye-Fi ($15 off) if you buy them together

Disclaimer

I paid full-price for this camera (zero discount) and was not paid a penny for this article from anyone.

If you use links in this article to make a purchase I may make a small commission.

NOTE: This site requires cookies and uses affiliate linking to sites that use cookies.

If you enjoyed this article, please support future articles like this by making a donation or saving money by using my discount coupon codes. Either way, your support is greatly appreciated!

This blog is intended for freelance writing and sharing of opinions and is not a representative of any of the companies whose links are provided on this site.

The opinions provided are of Ron Martinsen alone and do not reflect the view of any other entity